Testing 330GT 2+2 Fuel Sender Unit | FerrariChat

Testing 330GT 2+2 Fuel Sender Unit

Discussion in 'Vintage (thru 365 GTC4)' started by Darren C, Jun 24, 2013.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. Darren C

    Darren C Formula Junior

    Feb 3, 2011
    308
    Chichester, UK
    Hi,

    Can anyone please advise on how to test a 330 GT 2+2 Fuel tank sender unit.

    I have bought a used sender, but whilst my car is under rebuild and the tank is out I'd like to test it (with a multi meter) before fitting, so any help is greatly appreciated with what readings I should get.

    Thanks.
     
  2. John Vardanian

    John Vardanian F1 Rookie

    Jul 1, 2004
    3,080
    San Francisco Area
    Full Name:
    John Vardanian
    Hi Darren, the Ferrari sending unit is nothing more than a variable resistor (a rheostat). You’ll need to mount the sending unit onto something solid, as if it is bolted onto its normal working position, then put a 12V battery, the sending unit and a voltmeter all in series. Now, you move the “arm” of the sending unit from one stop to the other and you should see the voltage reading dropping gradually from 12 volts to near zero. What’s important here is that you witness a steadily increasing (or decreasing) voltage as you move the arm.

    john
     
  3. Darren C

    Darren C Formula Junior

    Feb 3, 2011
    308
    Chichester, UK
    Thanks John,

    What I'd like to know is what ohms reading I should see at "empty" and "full".
    I've had them in the past with high and low readings on other cars which effect the accuracy.
    Do you know what the resistance is?

    Regards
    Darren
     
  4. John Vardanian

    John Vardanian F1 Rookie

    Jul 1, 2004
    3,080
    San Francisco Area
    Full Name:
    John Vardanian
    #4 John Vardanian, Jun 25, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi Darren, the value of ohms isn’t important. The coil is either wholesome or it’s compromised. Take the back cover off and if the coil, as well as the sweep, look clean and tidy the gauge should work. But, I can take a full range resistance reading tonight and report. Here’s how it should look inside.

    john
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  5. Darren C

    Darren C Formula Junior

    Feb 3, 2011
    308
    Chichester, UK
    Thanks John,

    Yes the readings would be good as some searching on the internet (which is always dangerous) has conflicting information between 0 - 200 ohms and 0 - 300ohms for a good sender. Thats 50% difference which can't be right.

    Kind regards
    Darren
     
  6. John Vardanian

    John Vardanian F1 Rookie

    Jul 1, 2004
    3,080
    San Francisco Area
    Full Name:
    John Vardanian
    Hi Darren, sorry it took awhile to get back to you on this. As you can see in the photo, there are two terminals on the sending unit. The resistance between one of the terminals marked "T" and the chassis of the unit at "full-tank" is about 100 ohms. Now, if you jack up the arm all the way to the "stop", the reading will suddenly jump from 100 to 200-something, but that's a wild reading that has nothing to do with the function range of the unit anyway. The operating range of the gauge is about 10-100 ohms.

    BTW, the second terminal marked "W" is merely a feed to the warning/empty light within the gauge. Hope this helps.

    john
     
  7. Darren C

    Darren C Formula Junior

    Feb 3, 2011
    308
    Chichester, UK
    Thanks John,

    Thats great, thanks for taking time out to measure it. The unit I have measures 0 - 140/150 ohms dependent on wiggling it, so I'm not certain its any good.
    My car has no wiring loom as yet, so I think the next step is to wire the sender and gauge I have on the bench and have a play.
    To make matters worse the guage I have is used too, so I'm not sure if thats any good either!
     

Share This Page