I could hear a harmonic while driving it mate. I honestly thought it was the tyre! No vibration, no altered noise while turning, just a harmonic thrum. I removed the wheel and I could hear the dreaded feint rumble.
So I've stripped it and pressed the bearings apart. I've cleaned and regreased them as a short term so Jodi can still use it until I get the 400i bearings out......
Can the bearing be pressed out of the hub mate??? I just got a quote for a customer for a set of front wheel bearings to suit a bloody 2010 Nissan D40 Navara 4WD. Repco $400 trade, $600 retail for 2x wheel bearing kits. That is super expensive for 4x wheel bearings, 2x seals and 2x lock tabs. I thought I would call the dealer and get a price on a genuine set of bearings. If they are same price or cheaper then I will at least fit genuine parts. This has happened many times in the past. Boy was I wrong this time....... Cannot buy just the bearings for this car, need to buy the complete hub which comes with the bearings in them. Lol $830 each trade price, $1070 retail each!! FFS!! The other option was to remove them and take them to SKF and match up the bearings with some SKF ones. The only issue with that is being in Mount Isa, they may or may not have the bearings in stock. So I am not going to take that chance as I don't like doing things twice. So Repco wheel bearings it is.
The fronts on the 456 aren't sealed races mate. The top cone is pitted and needs replacing. They only come as a complete hub assy less the ABS chopper wheel. Apparently the rears are sealed races, so I'm hoping I'll be able to source those aftermarket via SKF
That's ok mate. Surely something can be sourced or matched up at SKF or Repco for the front. I had someone come to me with a home made buggy years ago that had a collapsed front wheel bearing. It was a double row non sealed bearing in the front. I removed it, pressed it out and took em to Repco and matched up a 2001 Ford Laser front wheel bearing. Pressed it back in, put it all back together and it worked well. It took a few hours or so looking though the catalogue and matching sizes etc before we started to pull boxes off the shelf to see what was close.
If you have the time, definitely give it a go mate. Another job I did once before included machining the stub axle on a 2009 Daewoo Lanos to suit a bearing from a 1998 Mazda 323 from memory. The Daewoo bearing was genuine only. A $660 bearing on a $2000 car for a struggling mother of two. Bugger that I thought!! I took some measurements again, matched up the bearing that was the closest ID fit and then took the stub axle to a machine shop of my friends and had him skim 0.7mm off the stub axle so the new bearing could be pressed on nicely. And nicely it pressed on indeed! Bearing from Repco was around $120 and I printed off a piece of paper stating the part number of the bearing that was fitted to the LHF of that car and only that bearing will fit etc etc. I never made mention of the modification performed on the stub axle. *Of course* I told her to place that paper work in the glove box and to never lose it as I might need to know that bearing part number myself one day if I have to replace the other side. lol This was done around 4 years ago now and the car is still running around town.
i don't understand what would make that bulb better than this... 80W 8000LM KIT CAR Cree LED Headlight Bulbs H4 HB2 9003 HI LO Beam 6000K Pair | eBay but especially this.... https://www.clsaled.com.au/160W-Cree-LED-Car-Headlights-16000LM-H4 And neither need any wiring mods. Just plug and play and appear much cheaper. If someone who actually KNOWS WHAT they're talking about can explain, I'd be very grateful. (clearly that excludes ferraridud)
I never said the globes I used were better than anything. They are just the globes I've used. They have a 3 year warranty and we've had great results with them, with no warranty issues.
To be honest mate I don't know. I'll have a look at the specs and see how they shape up. The ones you've linked to look interesting. From my experience though, high output LED's, especially cheap ones, usually only manage the higher output by increasing the voltage to the LED and switching it at a higher frequency. This is why they usually have a shorter warranty period and they usually also generate a lot of 'noise' affecting things like radios/cd's/uhf's etc. I'll do some checking and get back.
I am amazed at the corrosion, mines like new. It's worth a good search as hub assemblies are available for all sorts of cars. The PCD could be a good hint. http://www.wheel-size.com/pcd/5x108.0/
Sorry Gizzi, and thanks PAP. From the look of the assembly it looks like it originates from a 4wd due to the internal splines. Just found this have a look in here I like the look of EB5621 Wheel Hub Assembly, Manufacturer, Supplier-EBI Bearings(Ningbo) Co., Ltd This chart looks useful http://www.ebi-bearings.com/pro-wheel-hub-units-2nd02.htm Image Unavailable, Please Login
