The *Airbrush* Thread

I only use the sprays but I do wear a respirator. Haven't gotten serious enough I guess to buy an airbrush.

 

You don't specify what type of paint you will be spraying, however, a respirator is always a good idea and an absolute requirement for many paints.
Not sure about your query as to paint sticking to the lights. Are these going to be uncovered in your spray booth?

 

I use a respirator always...must be safe. Another tip that I did is I added an inline dryer for my airbrush supply line. It keeps moisture from coming through and speckling the paint.

I am very interested to know about a good booth as well. I am currently using my back patio as a the place to paint...and that isn't good this time of year. Also have you considered what will happen to the paint once it leaves the window...are you going to end up with rainbow over spray on the side of the house?


Ciao'

Steve

 

Enamels seem to have a much stronger smell than the acrylics. But yeah, either way, a Respirator is a good investment.

I dind't specify either, I've stuck with the Tamiya spray cans. Decent for what they are.

 

As for the lights...If you have a piece of plexiglass over them, wrap it tight with Saran-Wrap (plastic film used for food covering and storage). Once it starts to get too covered, peel it off and apply a new piece. Like the film they use on the visors of helmets in racing.
I would post up pictures of what I am talking about...but it is too late right now and I have a final in the morning. (Gotta love College)

Filter...any household air filter for the air circulation system will work. Prop it up behind the fans and have at it.

 

@ mke 360

Saran Wrap isn't too deadly

http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/bl-microwave-dioxin2.htm

Ciao'

Steve

 

And if Steve's link does not convince you...

http://www.snopes.com/toxins/plastic.htm

But in all actuality, this is the first I have heard of "deadly" plastic.

 

If you use flouresent tubes, heat should not be an issue as they are cooler than regular bulbs by nature. Also, the plexiglass need not be directly under the lights. If you have the tubes a few inches above the plexiglass, then heat will not be an issue at all.

 

Check out my buddy Alex's site....give him an email if you have any questions. He is a great guy to talk to...but I warn you...lots of eye candy!

Ciao'

Steve

 

http://www.italianhorses.net

oops..forgot the link

 

Years ago when I used to build models I made my own down draft spray booth which was very simple to make and super effective. The whole thing was made of corrugated cardboard (I did not feel like making it out of wood) and it lasted very well. The whole thing took only a few hours to make and I kept it for several years. There were 2 distinctive design elements that made the spraybooth work well:

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE READ THESE DIRECTIONS SLOWLY. It took a while to write and can be confusing if rushed.

1. Lighting was courtesy of a small flourescent tube fixture mounted atop the unit behind a piece of plexiglass. To keep the light clean, I made a very simple frame with a groove cut in it that allowed me to slide in replaceable sheets of plastic. The plastic I used was the 'sheet of paper' sized transparancies that are used on overhead projectors. Think back to your school days and you'll know what I am talking about.

2. The downdraft was courtesy of a household vaccum cleaner plugged into the base. Now comes the tricky part to explain and that is the design of the base. Please excuse the crude drawing as art is not one of my strengths Here is the heart of the whole system. I'll go step by step as the base is made of 3 parts (herin referred to the 'top', 'middle', & 'base'):

Top: Made from cardboard, it is a 16" x 20" (can be any size but this was all I needed) box with the bottom cut out of it. Also cut into the box were holes for the filter media (More on that later) and a hole in the side to plug a vaccum in.

Middle: Also cardboard, this piece was an exact replica of the 16" x 20" surface of the top with the holes both the same size and in the same place. The difference is that this piece was just a bit smaller in dimension than the top thereby allowing it to slip into the top from below. Imagine everything in the drawing slips together.

Base: The base was like the top without any holes. Like the top it is missing one of the 16" x 20" faces (in this case it is the upper face) and it has a hole in the side for the vaccum feed. Like the middle piece, the base is slightly smaller than the top to allow it to slide into the top from the bottom. Imagine a box where the lid slides fully over its base and it is not until seperated that a horizontal division is visible.

Now for the filtration system. I used cotton make up removal pads as little filters. They work very well and are dirt cheap. You can get them at the drugstore and I have attached pictures of the package and pads in this thead. Now follow me. The holes on the top and middle are SLIGHTLY SMALLER than the pads. Lay the pads onto the middle just over the holes and slide the middle up by the bottom into the top. This sandwitch will lock the pads in place. Next slide the base into the top up by the bottom and the whole system is sealed. The only hole is one on the side where the vaccum plugs into. Plug a household vaccum in and you are done.

Other notes:

- The spraybooth will have 3 vertical walls and one ceiling. It is on the ceiling that I mounted the lights.

- Pads are easy to change and should be replaced when dirty

- Place your model parts on a small pedestal (a small jar, or coke can works well) when painting.

I know this is not the best description in the world so I am happy to field clarifications. Please, though, try to figure out the drawings first.
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