Update: As many have said, these are BCD Corona pumps and are common to Dinos, Carbed 308s and some Fiats. The originals seem to have had only one wire from the casing with the clamp serving as a ground to the frame/mount. Thanks to all for setting me straight! I am attempting to restore one...will post when done.
Posted my disassembly of my BCD Corona in the 206/246 side as they already had a thorough discussion on this pump going... https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/206-246/502462-corona-fuel-pump.html
let's start! let's see how a nut and bolt restored 308 engine will look ciao Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have a good news. My drysump engine n.1690, that was painted outside during the previous engine out service, will become in factory finish again (means no paint, just he rough cast aluminium). The two polished (by the previous owner) valve covers will be replaced by two (almost impossible to find) factory valve covers. The rest of the block will be cleaned and stripped. I'm very satsified of that: thanks to my mechanic Toni Auto for finding out those very rare pieces. ciao
No chance to give the valve covers back their original appearance? Glass bead blasting? Walnut granulate blasting? Or something similar? Best Regards Martin
Not quite sure, where the problem is, but I would have taken the following into account for a decision: For cosmetic reasons it's the best solution. But not sure, whether this the case technically. At the factory the bores for the camshaft seals, for example, have always been cut together with the mating cylinder head. Tolerances are small, seals are soft and sealant helps a lot too. So there will be probably no problem regarding leakage or so. But though little, you will always get some deviation regarding the two semicircles and on the cut front faces. This is the reason, why covers are so hard to obtain. They probably never came as a separate spare part -though listed in the parts books- and those now being available come from damaged cylinder heads. At least this is, what my official Ferrari-workshop once told me. The moral of the story is, that in such a case you have to decide between the best solution regarding looks and the best technical solution. I myself would never sacrifice perfect mechanical things for a better look. But that's just me. Best Regards Martin
Yes,Martin, Markus is right: I was just talking about the cam covers, nothing else. Toni Auto shop in Maranello is very likely the best Ferrari repair shop in the world, so he knows what he is doing. Don't worry, the only big problem was to find out other two ones. Toni has in this moment another drysump undergoing a major service in his shop, a red German car. The German owner wanted red valve covers, so instead of polishing his valve covers before painting in red, they gave him mine already polished so he saved the polishing. And I took his still factory finish cam covers. One of the advantage to send the car to a big shop. Ciao
Yes, but the camshaft seals are sitting in the cover as well. Their seat is formed by two semicircles. One in the head, one in the cover. And those were always machined while clamped together. Best Martin
I won't die. Nor the engine will. And it's not the first time they change a valve cover: the oil leaks from the valve cover is caused by the wrong positioned draining hole in the camshaft housing, and that was already done (another draining hole in the correct position). Thank you very much for the advice, but you don't need to change the engine if you change a valve cover. ciao Edit An Italian Fchatter that I know very well and that has a spare part service, just sold a drysump valve cover (one of the two) at 2000 euro or so. I had two at ZERO euro cost. That's not bad at all!
Yes Alberto you are right. Seems, that we have different philosophies regarding technical things and looks. This is like swapping mothers and children for a better looks. Best Martin
I just even got a new set of CPS forged pistons and state of the art valves for my drysump engine: I'm a monster that eats children!! ciao
That's a very good news you will have the original finish. If Toni Auto could do the same for all the car he's doing...because one of the detail you recognize an engine from him is that unoriginal paint.
Toni Auto. The cam cover were polished by the previous owner. It doesn't look bad at all, painted, but I prefer it in the original look. The paint is the 800 C resistant. Ciao
Then glass bead them to kill the shine and the timing covers too then clear coat them with a satin clear for engines so they dont oxidize but at least they'll look more correct.
And remain on the matching head with which they once have been machined, clamped together. BTW. What comes to my mind regarding this discussion. Are there casting date stamps on the heads and inside the covers? Best Martin
Casting dates on the outside of the heads at the ends and inside the covers maybe. I cant recall seeing any inside but I also wasn't looking. I would want the original covers back on for the matched cam seal bores for sure.
Other than for that bores, I'm not quite sure. But I suspect further things, which have been machined together. Front faces on the distributor end, distributor bores? Regarding casting date. I found something. Seems to be present. Best Martin Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes all of those other surfaces would be machined as an assembly so if the option is there to use the mating parts then its a no-brainer.
Please let that problem for my mechanic: it will be solved. I asked him the direct question and he answered me this: "yes, they were machined together when new, so you have to pay a lot of attention when you change the valve cover. But we had to change many times a valve cover (without changing the head too) and so we know very well which are the problems we have to solve and things we have to check to have everything working well as it has to be. And with no leaks. How we do it, it's our know how, sorry, so please don't ask. You just have to know we will do everything necessary to have it well done. If there will be a leak, we will fix it on warranty, of course" ciao
my new CPS forged pistons: 81.5 mm bore. Same shape: no CR increase. Total displacement: 2963 cm3 (+37 cm3) Graphite on the sides, state of the art rings: much less power loss. ciao Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login