Kerry, I know you're frustrated because I haven't been moving faster on this, but I have been moving. I just poured the 1st half of my 4th iteration of the the Testarossa tail light mold. I"m pretty confident that this design will work. Should have the 1st part by the end of next week.
I think those fuel lines can be zinc plated without disassembly Witness the pressure cap i had done recently. It seems the chemicals used in the plating do not affect non metalic parts. I have also re-chromed cloisane badges successfuly - again the chrome goes just to the metal part of the badge and not the enamel Image Unavailable, Please Login
boy did I do mine the hardest way then! When I asked my plater about putting rubber/plastic components in the baths he was not sure if it would cause damage. I was going to have the engine mounts re-plated but decided against it so did it myself with my hobby plating kit. Next time........ Thanks for the new info daytonaman P
Thanks Phil. It is amazing what you can do with badges. I had the crossed flag one from my 330 console re-done. They were originally gold plated but so thin that it wore down to the brass with ocasional cleaning.The plater said he put on about 20 times more gold than the original. The plating does not affect the cloisane at all and the finished piece was just perfect. The car is not here at the moment but i will get a photo for you Howard
Kerry, You really really want to take a look at my most recent post to the tail light bulb holder thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=141161699
I had my motor mounts re plated....gold cadium.....a few years back, with rubber in place......not a problem. Sharing Me
Yes I did and regretted it! I found that when it came to setting them up on the FD's there were blockages from crud caught in the steel lines. I had to cut off the black Cohline hose to attempt dislodging the muck. I am not saying the plating blocked the lines but it sure made it difficult to unblock them with the hose on. Now that Verell has the sizes for a TR hose kit, it simplifies the plating by removing the hose and then being able to clean them properly prior to plating. Most of mine had evidence of corrosion starting under the Cohline round the barbs. More importantly; the hose had lost its gloss and was bent and buckled over the years, and looked very underwhelming when the plating was done. New hose made all the difference to to having them look symmetrical on assembly. Personally I would not have been happy with the outcome by trying to preserve old Cohline with newly plated lines. The outlay was reasonable and it was relatively straight forward to press the barbs onto the new hose. This is not a plug for Verell BTW, his reputation, enthusiasm and support speaks for itself. Pete K WA
Pete's right on. You definitely want to disassemble the lines before plating. Also plug the ends to keep the plating solution out of the lines. I know of several cases where this wasn't done. The metal line sections ended up with crud in them, thoroughly plugged most of the new injectors. Someone asked about powdercoating the lines: Not sure why you'd consider that, but make sure the barbs are masked off as powdercoating is pretty thick, can fill in the barb grooves. Again, plug up the ends to keep the lines clean.
Burn the old plastic line off. Replace it. Clean and plug the pipes prior to replating. Don't screw around. You'll likely regret it. Verell, Does your Testarossa tool also work with the 328?
The injector tool is usable with any K-Jet system as long as there's room to fit it in. The barb insertion took is usable with 328, but it's currently out of production until I can find time to make a new mold.
Already posted: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/217637-unobtainium-supplies-k-jetronic-fuel-injecter-puller-installer-tool.html#post138105101
