Probably the only day in some time here where it was semi warm and dry enough to be able to work outside
If in doubt refer to the manual ... actually forgot I had this factory wiring diagram. 1. As suspected the Green (V) & Green/Black (VN) are speakers and go to number (34) 'Cross Over Filter' 2. The Brown/White I'm yet to trace its use. Will double check the car later to make sure thats actually the correct coloured wire and I've not seen it wrong. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Many thanks to Jeff for helping me out with some wiring details, this has been extremely helpful. It appears that the brown/white cable I have cut and that is just hanging is to do with either: 1. Switch for buzzer of ignition key not removed - This I believe is the most likely use as its in that same steering column location as all the other switch wiring. 2. Buzzer for unfastened seat belt - Mine is a US car and had the retractable seatbelts The good news is I have no use for either of these. I HATE the buzzing noise my US 355 Spider makes when I leave the key in or open the drivers door, there literally nothing more annoying. Secondly I won't/cannot install the retractable belts simply because its impossible with having no roof. Very happy as that accounts for all the extra wires on the drivers side dash. More on the passenger side to tackle but thats a task for another day and in particular when I will be looking at the A?C and heating system.
Starting to put suspension back together after the refurbish and cleanup. Im unlikely to get the new front suspension springs until early new year as they are being custom made, so in the meantime just bolting bits back on and leaving them loose while I test fit everything with the new coilers in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
One of the next jobs that needs to happen prior to finishing this drivers wheel area being able to fit the new factory wheel arch liner, is figuring out the AC, its piping, wiring and the entire setup. When I got the car most of the major components were still in the two crates, however the seller forget to send the AC rad that sits in front of the wheel in this driver arch. Fortunately he still had it in his garage and after spending more shipping and import costs I finally got it here. Its now sat located on its bracket in the front of the car but not wired in or piped correctly. While bolting the lower suspension arm back on just now i was able to get a nice clear vision of the route the piping runs from the AC rad and on into the car, now that I know how to access it all I would like to get this all setup correctly, even if its not working at present to have it all piped and wired up correctly will enable me to finish other jobs in the front end and then move on to other areas. Bit of research required now to find out where all this piping and wiring goes and if Ive got anything missing. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
posted a operate thread to try and figure out what im missing connection wise with this condenser fan ? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks to Jeff & Steve my wiring dilemma on the AC condenser is now sorted. At the same time I have checked the two pipes that run from the condenser to different areas of the car and they are both routed correctly so for now I can move on to the next job. Sticking in the same drivers front wheel area and while I have the suspension easily removable I will attempt to fit the new factory wheel arch liner. Again not knowing the true history of the car Im unsure why both of the arches were almost completely missing (along with one of the rears). These parts were not in the goodie crate of bits so I had to source them separately, fortunately a fellow Fchatter by chance happened to have one in his shed and the other side I was able to get from Eurospares, both being new items. Started by doing a test fit to figure out which parts of the arch are to stay and which of the old remaining arch is to be cut away. The rear area was still on the car and as you can see from the photos Ive started to remove it bit by bit and in the process exposing the car cockpit under the drivers dash. Drilled out all the old rivets and now doing a first round fitment to see if everything aligns and how much more I need to cut away so the two parts meet and align correctly. Its an extremely tight fit, I should remove the front bumper to assist access but im trying to squeeze it in without having to do that for now. Ive also just noticed I have not yet fitted the front bonnet nice chrome pull release lever in the cabin seat area & that the access to route and attach the cable might be much easier with the arch out. MMMMMmmmmm carry on or do the cable first Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What a great thread! From a true passionate person. This what this forum should be all about! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Slowly getting this arch in place. Have unbolted the front fender which allows a little extra wiggle room. Needed to cut a little more away from the old area, but I think its all ready now, just a bit of subtle persuasion required. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
When you get deep into work on a TR, you realize these cars were truly hand built! I would assume they were not in a hurry!
Slightly off topic having taken a few days off from the TR Project. I bought this old 90s kids electric F40 ride on car a few months back for £25. Stripped it down and in the process of rebuilding it for my two little girls. Have gone against the Ferrari purists once again and done a 'Gas Monkey' style Black F40 with some modifications Genuine factory badges. Uprated and extra batteries Full strip down to chassis, repaint and rebuild. Got some mirrors sprayed up and still to fit Unfortunately they just don't make any spares for these old ones that I could find, so had to try and save and salvage everything possible. Just on the hunt for a new gear train and motor (proving hard to find) to fit now and its all done ready for them to enjoy. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
So back to the 'Rat', heres where I'm at; Im having a few fitment' issues' with the drivers front wheel arch. There are gaps, these are can cut and correct to fit, I had a similar issue on the passenger side and eventually got a nice fitment I was happy with. However the main current concern on the compartment side where the arch housing is now coming in contact with a brake booster hose. I had removed the hose and elbow in order to assist space when fitting the arch in place, now that its almost there I will not be able to relocate the hose assy. So again rather than a rush decision Im giving it some thought before matching ahead and cutting bits out. On a positive side note, I do like the fact but shining a light through these unpainted arches I can see clearly and assist lining things up and eventually drilling for rivet holes. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Some future jobs Ive been going over in my head about best way how to do some of the tasks. Firstly the Fuel Flap Door; Obviously the original on the coupe is housed as part of the rear lid, then the connecting fuel pipe is behind and high up. On the Ratarossa this needs to reside in the rear wing panel which gives me two issues: 1. How to attach this to the wing itself. Should I drill holes and counter sink it will allen head bolts for a race style look ? or somehow just attach it to the underside. I did try this second option before with some Gorilla fix, but it held for one journey in the car - So i'm open to suggestions here ???? 2. The fuel pipe connection. As mentioned the original setup on the coupe is the flap and fill pipe is high up on the car, by moving it to the wing area its almost inline with the top of the fuel tanks. Secondly there are extra engine items, framework and eventually the rear wheel arch in the way and all need thinking about how to bypass and overcome these obstacles. Currently I just lift the engine hood and fill from the engine bay. However I don't like this method as it potentially very dangerous due to possibility of fuel spills onto the hot engine pasts. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The other area I am looking at and thinking about is the interior windscreen surround. Again with the Ratarossa loosing the vital roof component it changes the way all of that surround can be finished. Pillars: As mentioned in a previous post, my car being an early US model it had those mad 80s electric seatbelt tracks and motors. On the Testarossa pillars I still have the bolt threads which I assume are to hold on part of the seatbelt mechanism? Either way I cannot use them, so these need modification and most likely cutting back in order to fit some modified leather factor pillar covers. I have all the original bits interior wise that came with the car and planning on using them by cutting them back to a size that fits the spider and hopefully getting something that looks good and original yet due to all the storage marks over many years retains the "rat" look i've got planned for interior and exterior. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Put it in the rear fender with the hole. use smaller dia, pipe and hose with tight mandrel bends to bypass frame. I did similar on my hot rod. The fueling is a little slower, but works.
Maybe try conventional 3 point shoulder harness, Attach to seat back some how, like some of US sedans?
Windscreen interior top covering: This part is a little more tricky, but a job I need to get done pretty quickly for safety aspects. Because of the steep rake on the Testarossa screen, when accessing the car and getting into the drivers seat it means you are very close to the top of the windscreen. In its current exposed form mine is lethal with sharp edges and bolts exposed. Two dilemmas here; Firstly how to cover it. Factory wise the entire roof was one leather panel then with panels each side for the sun visors (these explain the exposed bolts where the sun visors should be?) What I would like to do is somehow cover this area and make it safe but also if its possible but mainly if it looks correct and still allows decent access into the drivers seat is to use the original sun visors to. I have the original head liner leather and was thinking to try and use that as part of the panel, there should be enough leather and again it retains some form of its original car. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes cool already managed to resolve the seat belt issue by doing exactly that. It also passes regulations here to get through an MOT test. One of my subtle mods to the car was to do the seat belts in red to add to the the small red flares of colour for the bits i've sourced and bolted on since project started. Heres a couple of pics .... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes I like the idea of smaller pipe, thats good and the car is not going to be a daily driver so rarely will be visiting the fuel station. Any suggestions on how to attach that prefabbed box to the car with the fuel flap ?