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Does anyone know if Testarossa steering racks can be rebuilt or do you have to replace the complete rack as one part ? Ive had a look and can only see the part number for the complete LHD rack 131689 I have a slight bit of play on my passenger wheel and its at the rack end
from F you not get anything you may have a look what you need and have a look then at other manufacturers. may be you can make this what you need or repair?
Mine had a loose bushing that would cause some shake. It was able to be swapped out. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Hats off to you SpiderScott....I just read this whole thread as I am in the middle of restoring a very neglected early production 86 TR and I am ready to shoot myself and the car. You have re-energized me and I am not going to ***** anymore after looking at what you have done. Bravo SpiderScott!
The rack on my 355 project is a TRW one and looks very similar to other TRW racks so I imagine a good local rebuilder could match up components from other racks if yours is the same. Racks are not that hard to rebuild, I have done a couple now from repair kits. Maybe worth stripping it down and trying to match components yourself via ebay etc if you have no joy. I have even started rebuilding alternators and a/c compressors now, some great you tube videos out there that make you realise its not such a dark art after all
I built my first engine (big block Dodge), and it's shocking how simple it is (any engine for that matter). I'm not sure if I was expecting 543 more parts inside, or a magical pathway to the land of gnomes, but I got finished with the feeling that there "should have been more to it". There wasn't. There isn't. ...and the really big secret...they're kind of all the same...it doesn't matter if it says Dodge or Ferrari. It's pistons and rings and bearings and clearance specs and torque specs. sjd
Cheers fellas, The play in the joint is not so bad at the moment so I will live with it this summer and when i take the Ratarossa of the road this winter i'll then strip out that rack and try it myself or check out your guy Graham.
Thanks for the kind words Doug, good luck with the project, be great to see it on here. Just try and enjoy the process, I took my time and really enjoyed the Ratarossa up until this point, obviously there have been some hairy moments and lots of head scratching, but then it feels that much better when you finally figure those dilemmas out. The guys on here are top notch, with all the help I was able to do the Testarossa ...... They are not life savers they are 'car savers' , together we literally saved the Ratarossa from the breakers yard.
Your rack problem is likely to be the worn bushing on pass. Side. You can check with Pantera parts seller they usually are the same.
The ‘Ratarossa’ project just had a lovely write up and got Build Of The Week on Jalopnik https://jalopnik.com/this-ferrari-testarossa-rat-rod-is-being-built-in-a-hom-1826478605/amp?__twitter_impression=true
great story but scott: have you changed the timing belts already? can not remember to read and just now to lazy to read all the 31 pages
Finally caught up with the entire thread, amazing. I really miss having a Ferrari now The post about replacing the relay curing the rough running reminded me of fixing a similar issue with my (2.7) 355; replace one of the fuel pump relays and the whole thing ran so much sweeter. One (stupid) question though. Did you ever take the engine out and replace the belts or are you still motoring about on the originals?! edit: Ha! Romano beat me to the question...
Yes belts got changed a while back after getting the engine running, they were done by a local guy who has worked on lots of my Ferraris in the past, unfortunately I didn't get any pictures at the time so couldn't upload. After recently driving the car a few times, Im compiling a list of jobs that need doing on the Rat and then planning when they will be done. Again when the cars off the road this winter I would like to get the engine out myself and start to clean it up and replace 'all' of the old belts and pipes. get everything running sweet and looking clean (under the skin)
Back in the garage today. Couple of quick jobs to rectify two annoying items First was securing the brown speaker covers panels in place. I hadn’t put screws in these before due to them being modified from factory. So today fixed this. They had kept falling into my feet or passenger footwell while out driving so both dangerous and annoying Secondly my drivers wing mirror had a terrible vibration wobble. Tracked this down to the two bolts that hold it in place. After trying to tighten them it was clear the issue was the threads had stripped. In order to rectify I luckily have a spare mirror, just missing the glass. However the electrics and cable were looking a bit sorry so instead I opted to just change over the mounting bracket. To remove the mirror from mount you need to unthread the cable, this involves removing the round 6 pin connector as it is to large to pass through hole. After swapping everything and bolting back in place I now have a nice clear and steady rear view while sat driving Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Have picked up Exhaust from storage (back seat of 911). Going to start measuring up to see how different it is from the US fitments Image Unavailable, Please Login
So heres the challenge, convert the US system to Euro in order to fit the new exhaust box Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The rat has the US style 2 bolt flanges? I'd cut the flanges and rings off the euro box to start, then position the euro box in the car to see how much jog is needed. Then make or get some 2-bolt flanges (probably off the quiet box in the car), and then fabricate a small length of adapter pipe if needed. as you're trimming, keep as much pipe as you can to the catalysts, and as much pipe as you can on the euro muffler. That is, if you're not asking "here's the challenge" rhetorically. sjd
Looking at the layout i'm not convinced its so easy. For one I am pretty sure I would have to lose the Cats due to the difference in the way the Euro pipes come into the car. Also I unless completely needed want to hack the S/S euro box apart My idea: 1. Fit Euro box in place .... hopefully it will hang on the same position brackets ? (my 308 had to be modified as the mounting points were direct US v Euro cars) 2. Remove the Cats. This creates a void between the manifold/headers and muffler 3. Get some straight through pipes fabricated with a 2 bolt clamp at US manifold side and 3 bolt camp at other Euro muffler side Job done ....lose the cats and create more noise However one question before doing this is to figure out by removing the current system and cats and all the sensors thermocouple and analysing pipes associated with it. Will this then throw up errors and cause running issues ? I did something very similar on my old 308 and converted the whole system to Euro, all the sensors were removed and it made zero difference. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Running a few easy tests to see what happens if I install exhaust without sensors to US car. First test: disconnect the o2 sensors Result: Car starts and runs fine (in garage, not road tested yet)