Thermocouples, slow down lights, related CEL’s, and how to conquer them...

Bypass as in get rid of them completely, or stop the efficiency CEL's? 90º spacers on the rear o2's will stop the CEL's, but you need to have all good o2 sensors. They are pretty cheap.

 

P0441 Not listed in my codes
P1442 Secondary Air Injection System (Bank 2) - Malfunction (plause) not present
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent - Shorted (Min) 1 check wiring 2 check the valve functionality

So, nothing related to this thread. Hope this helps. Sounds like a wire got messed up or something when the exhaust was installed or something is not plugged in right or malfunctioning.

 

I am not sure I could sell them for enough to be worth my time to be honest. If I had to charge for my actual time you would think I was gouging The parts are cheep, but the time....I am so busy that I hardly get any sleep as it is. I am still trying to finish my own car. I don't really have much to go, but when you only get a few hours per week, it takes forever plus I have 4 other projects, day job, kids etc. I really want to try my boat too, but of course that turned into a project getting it up to my standards. I might be on it for another 3 weeks still. The Ferrari was a way bigger job than I anticipated. I actually got rid of another custom built project car for the Ferrari thinking "I will go OEM and it will be a snap to just get it to perfection"----->wrong 6 months later & still working on it. Getting close though.

 

I got the parts from Gateway Electronics in St louis except the connectors. I already had them in the kit from the supplier I listed above. I also already had the wiring. You can get them from any electronics place. Nothing special.

 

This is why I added some protection and also a voltage regulator, then a voltage divider to get down to the 1.5V. Much more stable than what others had suggested in other threads.

D1 is for protection and if it shorts it will just blow your fuse that supplies 12 volts and no voltage would go out to the ECU (electricity seeks the easiest path, which would be through the shorted D1). This would draw big current and pop the fuse instantly.
D2 keeps anything from feeding back into your 12v line from this circuit.
C1 and C2 are just for stability of the 5 Volt regulator (IC1), they keep it from oscillating etc.
Capacitors normally fail open, so not much risk there. Even if they shorted, then you would just get 0 volts to the ECU (again electricity would take the easiest path which is not to the ECU). In fact, if C1 or C2 shorted, then this would happen: D2 would blow due to over current, then the fuse would blow unless D2 went open, then the circuit would just be dead.
5 volt regulators also fail open normally and would stop regulating versus sending out 12v.
Even if the 5 volt regulator were to short and put out 12V (minus the .6 or .7 volts that D2 drops), it would still have to go through R1 (potentiometer). If that happened, your ECU would still see less than 5 volts (theoretically around 3.6 Volts) with a full 12 volts on it due to the voltage dividing R1. The ECU would just think it's seeing a hot thermocouple.

This is about as low risk of a circuit as I could come up with. Similar circuits are very common in tons of 12V devices. I can't think of any time I ever saw a 5 volt regulator fail that hurt the components being supplied off of it. If they fail, they usually just stop outputing any useful voltage, or something it was supplying failed and cause a high current draw on the regulator making it fail.

So, this circuit is pretty safe. Of course, build it at your own risk, this is just a guide showing what I did and is for information purposes only. I take no responsibility in what you do with this information. You could potentially hurt your car if you do it wrong and actually put it in your car without testing/tuning it on the bench. The above info applies only if you build it right. If you do build this, I highly recomend testing it on the bench and adjusting it on the bench. I highly recommend not powering it off the car etc. when your testing/tuning it, just in case you make a mistake. Don't connect things to your car that you don't know what they are doing or you are not 100% sure you have the wires correct etc.

On another note, this is all still working perfectly in my car Code free and slow down free...

Also, did anyone open that bad ECU and look into fixing it? Depending on what device is at the input signal line, it could be a couple dollar repair......It should be easy to diagnose since you know exactly what happened and what pin the over voltage was sent to. Unless that signal goes straight to a micro, it should be something pretty simple.
When the check engine light is stuck on, is it just giving the code that you would expect if you had a bad thermocouple? If so, that tells you the problem is just in that portion of the cicruit and probobly did not take anything else out. Does the car still otherwise function correctly?

Most likely other input lines are using the same circuit, so even if the part blew apart, you should be able to tell what it was and get a replacement. It would be worth looking into if you could make a useless ECU into a $2000 part for a couple dollars

 

I am not sure why I am not getting an e-mail when people respond to this thread, but I am glad to hear from PM's that people have duplicated these and it solved their problems (on 360 as well). I thought I would report back also that my car is still running great with no slow down or check engine lights.

 

Thanks!
Keep in mind if anyone is using this on a car that still has cats and stuff in it, make sure you dont really have a heat problem You wouldnt want to bypass a real problem.