348 - Throttle Body butterfly reset? | Page 2 | FerrariChat

348 Throttle Body butterfly reset?

Discussion in '348/355' started by FSM348, Jul 16, 2019.

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  1. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Would the ICV's allow up to 3000rpm?

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  2. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Quite possible as they can open rather wide. When I was playing with my manual idle control device (connected to both ICVs), if I remember well, I could bring the idle speed to more than 2500 rpm, maybe even to 3000. When the engine is not loaded, not much extra throttle bypass is required to bring the rpm significantly up.
     
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  3. Qavion

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    I thought the drag from the other bank would have, perhaps, limited how much the idle speed would increase (from a single ICV failure).
     
  4. AndrewMoorefield

    Sep 22, 2024
    16
    Thank you everyone! This is the tube I was referring to that had sludge inside.

    I think at this point I’ll just take it into an experienced Ferrari mechanic to have sorted out. Just worried I’ll mess something up if I tinker any more since I really do t know what I’m doing lol.

    issue is, the mechanic is an hour and half away. Is it safe to drive that far or am I risking further damage?
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  5. AndrewMoorefield

    Sep 22, 2024
    16
    I’ll give the icv a good check later this evening. That looks simple enough
     
  6. AndrewMoorefield

    Sep 22, 2024
    16
    In the blow by system, do you know which piece is the PCV Valve?
     
  7. Qavion

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  8. AndrewMoorefield

    Sep 22, 2024
    16
  9. AndrewMoorefield

    Sep 22, 2024
    16
    Hey gang, I just pulled the codes on the 348 and I can’t find exactly what they mean. Can anyone help?
    CE 5/8
    1211
    4112
    4122
    4121
    4114

    CE 1/4
    4121
     
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  10. Qavion

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  11. Qavion

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    1211 Lambda regulation (O2 sensor)
    4112 Stroke/phase sensor
    4122 Cat temp too high
    4121 Cat temp ECU
    4114 TDC Control Unit recognition

    4121 Cat temp ECU.

    One or more messages may appear simply because the engine is not running. See other thread. But I still think you have more than a couple of issues. Time to open your wallet.
     
  12. AndrewMoorefield

    Sep 22, 2024
    16
    Thank you! Simon other words, even if I replace these sensors, that most likely won’t solve my problems lol?
     
  13. Qavion

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    I would certainly start with the sensors. You could clear the codes and try swapping the ECUs to see if anything transfers. Unfortunately, you have the same 4121 code on both sides, so I would at least buy one thermocouple ECU/cat temp ECU/Control Station (or whatever they call it on the 348). P/N 142581
     
  14. Qavion

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    #39 Qavion, Sep 26, 2024
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2024
    Ugh.. to make life difficult, it seems they are only selling new "Control Stations" without one of the connectors. You have to de-pin the old connector, crimp new pins to the wiring of the new control station and insert them into the old connector.

    There's a used one here, but I don't think I would be relying on this in the long term

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/384092488069

    Perhaps useful for faultfinding, though.

    Where are you located?
     
  15. AndrewMoorefield

    Sep 22, 2024
    16
    Well I guess that’s just part of owning an old Ferrari lol. At least I’m starting to narrow down some of the issues. I’m located in Winston Salem, NC. I’m actually right down the road from Ricambi America so hopefully they will have plenty of parts that I’d need
     
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  16. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    With regard to the Cat ECUs, 4121 could be an old code from when the ECUs were disconnected. They should be connected now since you got an SDL at some point (you did not say whether it was LH or RH SDL). A quick check of your Cat ECUs you can do is to observe whether both SDLs light up for 2-3 sec. at ignition switched to "on". This would indicate that the Cat ECUs are probably good. With regard to code 4112 Stroke/phase sensor, check the condition of its connector and, if suspicious, clean the connector pins. Hopefully, this connector is not cracked or disintegrated (it happens after many years of exposure to heat).

    Then, before you move to buying parts, you should clear all codes, drive for a while and read the codes again.
     
  17. AndrewMoorefield

    Sep 22, 2024
    16
    the slowdown light was the one on the left side of the dash (5/8) and yes the SD lights do come on before starting the car but go off after 1-2 seconds.

    would you by chance be able to show me in a diagram where the stroke/phase sensor is located and also a link where I can purchase a new one if I need to?

    thank you!
     
  18. AndrewMoorefield

    Sep 22, 2024
    16
    Would you be able to send me a link for where I can buy a new TDC sensor?
     
  19. Qavion

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    If you search for the stroke/phase sensor and code 4112 on the forum, you'll get some differing answers as to what this refers to. Some say the crank sensor, but I'm not sure if this is correct. Code 1121 refers to the "rpm sensor". This is more likely to be the crank sensor as the tachometer uses the left bank crank sensor (for rpms). Therefore, 4112 may refer to the cam sensor. This is located on the rear end of the right hand cylinder head. Having said all that, this may be one of the codes which appears simply because the engine is not running.

    I know a cheap alternative for the F355 cam sensor does not exist, so if it was required, you would simply go through Ricambi. I'm not sure about the 348 though. Note that crank sensors, on the other hand, are quite cheap Bosch units and Kia crank sensors can be used (just Google "Kia" on the forum if ever you need one).

    On the F355, it's possible to get the knock sensor and the cam sensor plugs mixed up (possibly the same on the 348), but this would probably result in crank/no start situation.

    So, we seem to be stuck for what to replace first. I would follow Miro's suggestion. Clear the codes and go for a drive and see what codes reappear. Note that some codes seem to require two drives before they re-appear. I don't know if this is ECU logic or just anecdotal reports.
     
  20. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    On the 348, code 4112 clearly means stroke/phase sensor. This code is not known to show only because the code reading is done when the engine is not running so it could either mean poor connection at its 3-pin connector or faulty sensor.

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    The sensor is inside the circled cover, on the left side of which is its 3-pin connector. This is how this connector looked on my 348 when I bought it:

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    Code 1121 means faulty "RPM sensor", i.e. the so called crankshaft sensor. This code seems to always show if the code reading is done with the engine not running.

    Code 4114 "TDC recognition" appears to mean certain "internal recognition" of the TDC signal by the ECU. The TDC signal comes from the RPM sensor (the Crankshaft Sensor). It seems that this code may also show if the code reading is done with the engine not running but this is not really verified. The fault description suggests that it means some engine ECU internal problem - inability to recognise the TDC signal (pulse) received from the Crank Sensor but, I speculate, may also be due to partially faulty Crank Sensor.

    With regard to Andrew's question as to buying a new "TDC sensor", such sensor does not exist as a separate device. Recognition of the TDC is performed by the RPM (crankshaft) sensor, i.e. the "Kia" sensor as advised by Ian. There are two of these, for the left and right banks, located at the crankshaft pulley.
     
  21. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    SD lights coming on and going off after 1-2 seconds is normal and it means that your Cat ECUs are most probably good. This also means that the code 4122 in your 5/8 bank was most likely caused by the Cat temp of this bank actually going too high for some reason (and not due to a faulty Cat ECU). Anyhow, let us know what codes you get when reading again after clearing the existing ones and driving for a while.
     

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