Hi, I have a 84 Mondial QV Cabriolet. I took it for a ride today and it ran great except the accelerator had certain points it would stick. I suspect the throttle cable has never been changed so I bought one off of EBAY. Can anyone tell me how hard it is to replace that cable. or does anyone have any ideas on the approach I should use. Thanks bruce
Viper driver Well you got me wondering too. I know electrically they are similar but mechanically I don't know either. I know the part numbers are different which tells me the layout should be different. Which end did you start from? the engine or the accelerator pedal? Did you need any special tools. thanks bruce
I doubt a sticking accelerator will be fixed by the cable, but who knows. Here's why mine had to be replaced (see pics). The pedal was sticking as well, that was due to the actual pedal having some problems and the throttle body too. To remove it, start at the motor end. Remove the small cotter pin at the tip of the ball joint. then you can unscrew the end of the cap. now you can remove the ball joint from the throttle body. Now go to the pedal end. I'd just completely remove the pedal so you can take a look at the whole thing and see if it's got any other problems. you'll have to remove the center console forward half and the plastic pedal cover first. The pedal is held by two nuts. Not required to remove the pedal, but I found that mine was bent and needed some added support welded on. next, remove the clevis from the pedal so that the entire cable can rotate freely. Take the clevis and nut completely off at the pedal end so you can pull the cable through from the back. Back to the motor end, you'll have to unscrew the nut that's tight against the inside of the intake manifold. It'll be hard to reach in there to the back side. once it's loose, you can unscrew the threaded part of the cable out of the manifold. The manifold has threads tapped into it where the cable passes through. Take note of how the cable is routed through both the front and rear manifolds. you should now be able to pull it completely out from the engine side. It shouldn't bind on anything. if so, go back to the front and see what's catching on the outer tube. once it's out, reverse for the new cable. when you feed the cable through at the motor side, there are two tubes that it passes through. Once it's through the first half, you'll have to climb under the car and feed it into the second half where it goes into the center console. I tied a string to my old one and pulled the string through so I could reroute the new cable, but I don't think that did much of anything as it was easy to route the new cable without it. good luck. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'll have to take a look and see how similar mine is being a carb car. I didn't think to ask what year yours was but sounds similar from what I've looked at so far. Thanks for the tips!
I'm about to replace mine, I've trhe new one already here so please if there are any to-knows please fill me in.
viper driver, Thanks for the information. The disconnecting seems straight forward, but using a string to pull the new one through is great. The cable should be here by the weekend. I can't wait to get my problem fixed. thanks bruce
Viper_driver did you lube cable or does it come prelubes ini the housing? If you had to do it?, got any tips on that thanks again bruce
no need to lube the cable. the tube that it goes into isn't a tight fit at all. you'll see why the string isn't necessary when you do this. there are two tubes. one along the firewall and one inside the center console. both are pretty straight runs and easy to access the ends so the string didn't do much to help, but have at it if you want to use one.
I did my clutch cable and IIRC, there are round rouber grommet like fittings under the chassis that reveal the clutch and gas cables making routing/intalling easier. Also, a lift helps A LOT!
