I have mucked up the end blue/green seal O ring. Others did not seem to be as difficult, but there must be a trick that someone knows about. There is a metal band inside the seal and there is no way to not bend it upon install, unless there is something I am missing.
I just watched Dave's video for the umpteenth time and he made it look so simple. However, his was an F1 bearing and the seal looked smaller? Also, the seal I messed up is the most expensive one at 48.00.....nice screw up...........
I looked at the photo on the Hill bearing, and the green seals appear to be scarf cut seals which are pretty simple to install. I don't know what you mean by metal band inside the seal (lip seals usually have a retention spring inside it) I replaced my throw out bearing with the Hill unit and it was pretty straight forward.
Image Unavailable, Please Login I replaced my failed OE bearing with the Hill Engineering a few years ago as well. This time around I am replacing clutch and regreasing flywheel. The Hill bearing uses the factory seals and o rings. Embedded within the green synthetic material is a metal core. The ring is rigid and not at all pliable. Upon install, it immediately deforms and I don't understand how it can regain its original shape. The split scraper seal was obviously easy. The other 2 were not, but I was able to get them in. The "end" seal that is giving me fits, is the largest in width and diameter
OK. Now it is a bit clearer. There is likely a seal installation tool for this. It would have two parts, one to hold the seal and another to push the seal down into the first tool while slightly shrinking it enough to fit into the groove. And there also may be another seal expander to fit the new seal into the bearing. This would be typical in a spool valve seal replacement scenario. Remember that I am "assuming" these tools exist. I am drawing from my years rebuilding transmissions on GM vehicles (which is a never-ending job), and have made use of many seal installation tools that Kent Moore provided to us in order to correctly install them without damage. I think what brings these designs to be is that when the factory assembles these parts, they are done with robots that have these "tools" built into them, and that reduces costs. I would be inclined to just purchase a new Hill unit and be done with it. Hope this helps.
Agreed, there must be a special install tool. On another note, I WAS WRONG: I cut the seal in half and there is no metal; it is just incredibly stiff. I thought of that as well, but my Hill unit is only a few years old and feels like new. The seal is 50. and the replacement bearing is now 590. so I would prefer to replace the seal Originally, I started the seal at one point, say 12 o'clock and worked around the circumference. At about 9 o'clock is where is became difficult and the seal began to buckle. I am wondering if it might be better to insert the seal completely into the bearing opening at a downward angle and work back up?
As a kinda-cobby but effective stop gap that I have done is to take a hose clamp and some stainless steel flashing and make a mini piston ring compressor (one used for inserting piston into the cylinder bore) and gently compress the seal. Then being quick, remove the seal from the tool and get into the groove.
I like that idea, but unlike a split piston ring, the seal is solid and not sure how this will compress?
Surely, there are more than a few who have successfully tackled this job?? Bueller.....Bueller.... Don't want to mess this up again.
Hundreds of times. All I can say is don't overthink it. No one showed me how and I never had any real trouble. The guys who built these cars were underpaid, undermotivated, and undereducated. They were the Italian version of UAW workers. Surely you can accomplish what they did. Analyze the requirements of the job and do it. Sorry but it really is that simple. If a $40 problem is a big issue you need to be doing something else. A few minutes ago I had a $10,000 issue. Just another day in the life with Ferrari.
Gentle heat often makes seals like this more pliable. I like to use near-boiling water to soften them gently. And then plenty of lube on the way in...
You should be able to bleed it without the pumpkin installed. As for testing it, the slave bearing travel is limited by the pin-in-the-groove assembly so I surmise that you can test it as well without the pumpkin. Beware, I have never done it that way. Were you able to get the seals all inside the bearing? Which technique(s) worked best for you?
You can bleed but only if you are careful and keep the fluid pressure very low in the process as there is a risk of breaking the "pin in the groove". Not possible to do any test as the TOB will be sitting at the extreme outer position, held only by the pin. If, at this TOB position, you push the clutch pedal, you will break the pin and the TOB will shoot out.
I have not. Paul Hill told me to search for rod seal videos and there are a few methods provided. There is a local hydraulic supply shop that I plan on visiting tomorrow. Hoping they may have a tool for proper installation. I have no desire to mess this up again. Question answered.....lol......thanks.
Thinking about that route. I don't think my three fingers will fit in the bore of the housing. ID is about 2" Amazon sells a 3 piece tool set that might work, but my concern is the seal is so darn stiff and wonder if it will rebound? $16.00 Image Unavailable, Please Login
New seal installed using the above tool. Was worried that the kidney bean bending would distort beyond its rebound ability, but seems to be good. However, having difficulty pushing the bearing onto the flange. Don't want to force it, but wondering if proper install requires some persuasion? The issue is that same first (forward) seal making its way over the larger portion of the flange.
Not sure how much persuasion is required....prior to installing the previous mentioned seal, I could get the bearing on the flange with gentle persuasion, but with the seal in place, I am not able to get the bearing onto the flange. I am using hands only and no matter how hard I push, the large edge of the flange is hitting the edge of the seal which will not compress.
My installation of a new HE bearing: 1. Using sand paper grits 1000 --> 1500 --> 2000 I sanded and smoothened out the chamfers at the small and large portions of the flange to eliminate any possibility of damage to the seals: Image Unavailable, Please Login 2. Applied brake assembly grease to the pistons and especially to the chamfered areas. Image Unavailable, Please Login 3. With the flange upright on the bench, I positioned the bearing and pressed it on with both palms of my hands (using an "impact" push). Image Unavailable, Please Login
The teflon seal compresses against the inner rubber o ring when installed. Was thinking about using an expansion plug to momentarily push the seal in? ID of the bearing housing is 2" and the plug expands form 1 7/8" to 2 1/8" and I can't imagine the rubber would hurt anything? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks to all for suggestion and help..... Ernie suggested that I install the TOB to the flange on a bench, and NOT with the flange bolted to the bell housing. While it was still a challenge, I was able to get it on the flange and problem is solved.......until the next one,......
