My vin is after 123166.... and I think the code is 2C.... so would be 2002 March.... Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Your car would fall under the affected VINs. If there is no indication of the swap being performed, I would strongly consider it. Here is some info, in a nutshell. A search here will reveal tons more. https://aldousvoice.com/2013/01/23/ferrari-360-phase-variator/ https://ricambiamerica.files.wordpress.com/2016/01/tsb1232_variator1.pdf
“”The affected cars are those with a VIN below 123399, ie: if your VIN is higher than 123399 then your engine would have been fitted with the newer design at the factory.””” My vin ——128166....
If you are concerned and have said you have no records then vin alone may not be a reliable method as engine Could have been replaced. Check the engine #, beyond engine # 60796 should have updated variators. Here’s a link to a thread with the service bulletin https://ricambiamerica.files.wordpress.com/2016/01/tsb1232_variator1.pdf Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
This is terrific advice and I will do this next time I do my belts. Thanks for sharing that tip. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Image Unavailable, Please Login What’s your take on this? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
For that cam, I would pull out the degree wheel. The factory mark is certainly unreliable. It looks like they tried twice to mark the spot.
You think there’s an acceptable range it can fall under? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
So you should ask yourself why did you go through this? If you are happy with how the car ran leave it alone button it up, and you should have never checked it. Some feel the factory marks are not always accurate so even if you were spot on to those you could be “off”. If you leave it You can console yourself with “if it’s where Luigi got it in Maranello in 2002, then that should be perfectly adequate for my non racing street use.” If your goal was to try to get it as good as it can be (which it may end up where it is now and you’ll just be verifying) then degree it. And since you have uncovered what appears to be a bifurcated ambiguous Mark you could make a good argument to at least check that cam. It’s fiddley and will require patience if you have never done anything like this before. Also you will have to take off the cam cover(s). So If they are leaking of if the cam seals are leaking this would absolutely make the decision for me to degree it and change all those. There are some threads here and more importantly numerous sections in the WSM you will need to familiarize yourself with, and find a few tools needed some can be fabricated or elegantly fabricated/MacGyvered. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Hey thanks for your remark, I got it timed. Just wanted to chat and thoughts. Let’s not make it a smart ass thread but rather an instructional thread, take care merry Christmas. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Wow, I didn’t intend at all to be a smart ass. I’m sorry you took my comment that way I actually put time and thought into that response. looking back I’m not sure why you interpreted it that way. I was basically giving you support for whatever decision you chose. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
I apologize, I took the comment as “why did you do it”..... completely wrong on my part and I apologize. Thank you for all the help, really. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
ok so here's an update.... timing is all done, runs great, after 2 minutes of engine run the CEL came on... ran a diagnostic with Blue Driver and P1340 came on. So when I took a look at the engine codes it said BANK 2 CAM POSITION SENSOR. I Cleared and repeated the procedure and CEL came on again. I Cleared the code and SWAPED the Sensor with BANK 1, NO CEL, and drove the car for about 15 minutes, NO CEL,,,, but blue driver is still indicating a PENDING TROUBLE CODE P1340, But NO CEL. I'm thinking the Sensor has gone bad and may have a future problem. Any Ideas????
That P1340 means the ECU thinks that the alignment between the crank shaft and cam shaft is off from specs, on bank 2. At the risk of beating a dead horse, how did you do the cam timing on this car? It is still possible that one of the sensor is bad, or the wiring is bad. To really find out which, you have to use a scope to inspect the signal and see if one signal is much smaller than the other one. Or, you can go for broke and replace both Cam sensors (they are quite pricey).
the alignment was done as follows,,,,, we found TDC, then verified the marks on the crankshaft pulley, then verified the hairline marks aligned with the rear cam "canoes indentations", all were aligned perfectly. then cams were locked with vice grips, then belts were put on. Turned on engine,, all seems fine, temps are fine, all belts are tensioned up properly. the CEL came on after 2 minutes, then reset system, and came on again. Swaped the sensors and the CEL does not come on now. I would replace both sensors, but you think thats pretty much the issue??
How did you find TDC? There are no marks on the crank, or flywheel from the factory. Any procedure done by Ratarossa is non-precise (chop stick, balloon, etc).
Let me be more specific, did you find it with a TDC finder tool, or degree wheel, or just eye balling a chop stick no longer rising?
The best you can get with the steel thin stick is a couple of degrees, which is not the most accurate. I just did one for a 308 using the stick method and double checked it with the flywheel marks and the eyeball method was off. I used the stick method just to get close enough from the front side of the engine. It's been my experience that if you eyeball-stick the TDC, line up the hash marks on the four cams, your car will run fairly well. If anything else is out of specs (such as old sensors that are borderline on functionality) it will throw a code. You drive it long enough and it will send up a SDL. If I were working on your car, I would absolutely use a degree wheel to find TDC and then use the degree wheel to time the cams to their specs. But, that is me and I am a stickler that way. You want to make sure the cam-crank are absolutely to spec before you condemn the two expensive Cam position sensors and/or the varitors. I know how painful it is to do cam degreeing on a 360, especially a spider. I know, I have been there.
Ok, will double check with the degree wheel, but it sounds like the sensors are outdated? Would you recommend to change both sensors? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Let me ask a clarifying question. If you’re not touching the 4 bolts each adjusting the pulleys angle to the camshaft, then finding precise TDC doesn’t matter if you just R&R belts and bearings? Right? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
BTW, if you are going to find TDC with an accurate tool, make sure you mark the position at the flywheel inspection port under the engine. It's more accurate than any marking at the front of the engine. As for the cam phase sensors, it's $350 each so ... how deep is your pocket? Someone (Grant) on this site with a 355 also got the same phase sensor error and replaced it only to find later on that his engine was way off time. It was a different cause than yours, but it only goes to show that the single error code can be thrown by multiple causes.
