tips and tricks -- 308 hoses?

There are two panels to remove:

One is right in front of the fuel tank, an aluminum panel and is riveted to the bulkhead. Drill out the rivets and remove.

Second one is in the front wheelwell, near the rear edge, in front of the driver's door. It too is riveted on. Some people can remove the hoses without taking this panel off, but in my experience, it helps ALOT (to feed it up to the brake booster/heater cores).
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You are on the right track by losening the gas tank. One thing that I do is remove the release latch and surround of the engine cover. Becuase it does protrude into the opening were the heater hose travels,,it;s one less thing for the hose to get bound up on.

Remove the left front wheel and remove rear most panel in the wheel well, you should now be able to see the other end of that hose. Follow is up to were it attaches. ( you will have to remove the fiberglass cover section in the front compartment).

Disconect the hose under the front hood and pull it through the wheel well. Get yourself a hose joiner at the local auto parts store..but make sure it will fit snug without the use of hose clamps. Attach the new length of heater hose to the hose that is still in the car. Wrap some electrical tape around the joint for some extra insurance that it won't come apart. Now working from the left rear wheel start pulling. You are going to have jiggel and twist to get the hose around some of the bends but it will come. With the latch removed you can help it along with a pair of needle nose plyers.

Do the same with the vac hose for the booster aswell. Hope this helps

Tom.

 

Finnerty,

I just replaced these hoses a month ago. If you have a 308 gtsi the panels that you need to remove are just screwed in and not rivited. You will still have that tough 90 bend just behind the gas tank to deal with. My recomendation is to remove the gas tank but some people made it work by just moving the gas tank like you have.

The trick for me was to secure the old hose with the new hose using some kind of wire. I got this from a local hardware store. I cut 2 holes in the end of both hoses to run the wire through them in a figure 8 pattern trying to keep the size of the connection the same size as the hose. This allowed for flexability in the joint. I then wrapped the joint with duck tape so it would not hang up on anything. After pulling one through with no trouble I then went on to hose #2. Will the larger hose got hung up around that 90 bend in the rear when I remebered an old post that silicone spray would help. Done 5 minutes later. So moral of the story Start by spraying the hoses with silicone spray and it will make things much easier. Oh yea, I did this all by myself so if you have help then you should be good to go. Good luck!

Bill

 

Can you tell me about how long each of the hoses are.

 

Absolute pig of a job did it on my 308gt4. Folloe adive of the other join old hose to new one and lubricate well with silicon or even grease to help it slide through the hole. I took the gas tank out.

 

I think I bought 12 feet of hose. There are several post on this subject with hose lengths for every hose on the car and sizes. I just measured with a tape measure, added acouple of feet for good meassure and then cut to length once the hose was in place. I read a bunch of horror stories about replacing these hoses. Really not to bad once I used silicone. I am rebuilding my suspension so removal of the gas tank was not to bad. Maybe just a pint of blood! I would hate to try this with out the gas tank out of the way though. Doable but the neighbors would be calling the authorities for all of the screaming going on.

Good luck!

Bill

 

I'm at the same stage on my car, and have a couple of questions. Is it better to pull the hose from the front to rear, or rear to front. Also can you pull both hoses together at the same time without any trouble?

 

Glassman,

I am not sure what direction pulling the hoses would be the easiest. I first disconnected the 2 front hoses and pulled them down in to the front wheel well. I then connected the new hose to the old hose at the front of the car then pulled from the rear wheel well. It seemed to work fairly well.

 

I pulled my hoses from back to front, one at a time, attached to the old hose (a tight-fitting hose barb and some tape for security was enough to keep the new hose attached to the old hose to pull through. Don't use a hose clamp as there isn't enough room to pass through some of the nook-and-crannies along the way).

I'm surprised at GavC's remarks with his GT4, as on mine, it was straight forward and easy.

Skip, if I remember correctly, GT4's use slightly longer lengths than a GTB/S, naturally as they have a longer wheelbase. I think I used 16ft of each.

 

That doesn't look right, I think I'm confused with something else. Ignore that measurement...

 

I'm using NAPA Gold Stripe hose. It's the best I could find locally. Should I use the same hose for the brake servo hose or is something else recomended?

 

I used a true vacuum hose from NAPA.
This hose is very high quality but a lot stiffer (the wall is semihard) so that it wont collapse with vacuum.
It was (possibly) a bit harder to install because of the stiffness and the fact that it has a slightly larger OD than the original. It was, however, an easy install nevertheless. In fact, the connection with the old hose came undone (I pulled too hard) and the stiffness of the hose may have actually helped to push it trough.
If I could do it over again I would use a quality coolant hose because 1) easier install, 2) is what Ferrari seems to have used, 3) it was expensive (more than $ 40 for the 11-12 feet I bought), 4) I do not notice any better brakeing performance.