Tips On Purchasing a 355

I am beginning the process of buying a pre-F1 355 and was hoping knowledgeable owners here could give me a few tips. A few quick questions I have are:

- Putting aside value based on production numbers, are there any specific issues/red flags associated specifically with the berlinetta or GTS models are should look out for?

- What are the key maintenance thresholds I should be aware of? In other words, when should key maintenance be done on any car I consider buying?

- I understand that some preventative maintenance requires removing the engine. Maybe it's just me, but this process seems pretty intense. First, when is this required? Also, as an owner have you ever found or heard of this be a risky process (i.e. - not performed correctly or re-installed improperly)?

Depending on some of the responses I may think of other questions, but I would appreciate some hands-on advise. Thank you.

 

They never switched to strictly to F1, not for 355, not for 360, not for 430, it was an option that was introduced in 98. You could always still get a 3 pedal.

Parts are not too bad to get, especially if you don't mind using good used parts.

An engine out major service is needed every 3 to 5 years depending on personal preference. Ferrari says every 3 years but most agree that is just a money making gimmick for the dealerships. The cradle was designed with the intent to be removed for the service so its really not that big of a deal as some might make it out to be, many do the servicing at home and save thousands.

All your questions are talked about extensively here so just start reading. You'll learn more then you ever wanted to know.

 

Besides the normal 5 year Major Service / Engine Out issues, if memory serves, these are most of the dominant issues that commonly apply to all 355's, not just to the B and GTS's. Besides checking these, you should have a competent mechanic do a thorough PPI before purchase which should include some of the these issues.

1) EOM exhaust header failures. Do a smoke test. Replace with aftermarket.
2) OEM valve guide wear / failures. Do a leak down / compression test. Replace / do a valve job. Consensus appears to be sintered metal but some still say bronze.
3) "Sticky" interior finish on all metal / plastic parts. Visual / touch. Refinish all.
4) OEM electric radiator fan overcurrent. Check current draw. Replace both with lower current model from Spawl (I think that's the name).
5) Upper dash leather shrinkage. Visual at defroster vents. Replace.
6) Suspension Actuator failure. Check codes. Have rebuilt.

Besides all the usual things at the next engine out service, you'd be wise to examine these others if they haven't already been previously addressed: Timing belt tensioners, AC compressor, Water Pump, Alternator and its tensioner. Replace (many say do prophylactically due to difficult / impossible access with engine in).

Of course there are other items that can go wrong with any 355 (or for that matter, any other car) that is 20 some years old, among them cats, CV joint boots, suspension bushings, headlight lift motor contacts, fresh air vent flap shaft, F1 issues, sticky accelerator cable / parking brake cable, etc. These seem to come up with some frequency.

I'm sure I've left some things out but I hope this covers the most common and significant issues and those with the most repair cost.

 

Strongly recommend anyone buying a F355 - during an engine out have the gold pin kit installed - F355s at this age are troubled with corroded connectors everywhere. These will set off warning and cause all sorts of errors and problems.

 

There is a ton you can read on here. Find some relevant searches and you will see.

For starters:

1) headers burn out
2) Convertible top almost always troublesome
3) Valve guides can be an expensive issue
4) engine out every 5 years
5) OBD1 is more modifiable
6) OBD2 helps troubleshooting more
7) Clutch can rattle to death
8) see a cracked frame thread recently
9) CV joints, CV boots, and engine mounts are frequent service items

F1, sounds like you already know about that.

 

Fuel delivery pipe from filler neck to tank...connections can deteriorate resulting in fire.

 

I owned a355 for 14 years. I had following problems..
Exhaust headers
Bi pass rattles
Dash pod leather shrink
Air bag leather shrink
All plastic parts inside go sticky
Gas struts on the bonnet lid changed twice
New front shocks after 27000 miles
New clutch after 23000 miles.
I know a lot of the coupes can rust at the bottom of the rear buttress. I had a soft top so didn't have that problem.
Probably other bits and pieces but they were the main ones. Engine out cambelt change was a pain every three years.........but I enjoyed every year I owned it. I couldn't walk away from it without turning and having a look. A beautiful car from every angle. Made the change for a 458 Italia . Will probably lose money on it but will once again enjoy every minute.

 

Thank you all for the great feedback.

 

Don't listen to all the F1 B/S stuff how bad it is.

 

What spec are you looking for? Colors? Miles? GTB/GTS?

 

1.) Pay for a qualified shop to inspect and perform leak down test.
2.) Be prepared to travel to find a good example.
3.) Have an extra $20,000 ready to spend on top of the sale price. Seriously.
4.) Good examples are never cheap.

 

Right, all you need to do is sift thru the threads on f1's and it becomes apparent how bad it is. Seems like the good old manual six speed is one of the few components of the 355 that doesn't have issues.

 

Just like you need to shift thru about all the threads on how bad the guides are on pre 98 cars..lol.The 355 f1 is a good system, just that a lot of people don't understand how it works or better yet how to repair it.It's a very good system with the 360 pump update.

 

If you're e the kinda person who takes it to the shop for everything

 

Buy the best examples you can afford and have fun. Nothing much goes wrong on a well maintained car except the usual wear with a car this age.

 

Agreed.

i.e. Headlight repair I just did. My cost $0. If I'd just taken it somewhere, new motor plus 4 hours labor I bet.

 

I will go in a different direction. Talk to the owner to really get a sense of their ownership experience. Are they passionate about the car? Why did they buy it? Are they knowledgable about 355's? Is it just a status symbol to them, or do they really get it? Do they talk about how they drive the car....like always warming the car fully before increasing RPMs? Or avoiding driving in certain conditions? Is the car clean and detailed? If they have encountered repair problems in the past, did the neglect them....or fix them right away?

These questions will help you formulate an educated assessment of how a car has been treated...and hopefully correlate with its longevity and reliability.

 

Excellent advice! Vetting the owner will really help you get a better understanding of the F355. Truly understanding the owner will aid you in your evalaution, some are too optomistic and others are only happy when they are unhappy and making others miserable. There is some very good knowledge on this site and some that is marginally useful, search the posters' posting histroy and you were ll be able to determine how much validity to put into their advice.

These are great cars with some issues, only you will be able to determine if it worth the effort. After 10 years, I am still a huge fan of the 355!

 

The problem is even after a good PPI that no garentee nothing cant happen but it helps you avoid a car with expensive issues they find. NPeople will sell garbage if given he chance. So be diligent but don't think problems can't arise. I have seen people complain tjat the couple hundred dollar ppi didnt detect some huge problem that happend 6 months later.

My plan if my F1 goes out during my ownership is convert it to a 6 speed.

 

Does anyone know for certain if the most prestigious concourses, such as the Cavallino Classic, Pebble Beach, Amelia Island, accept Tubi Style manifolds on 355's or only OEM without exception? Or, can anyone suggest how one can find out? Thank you.

 

I also posted this on the 355 section with no response. Does anyone know for certain if the most prestigious concourses, such as the Cavallino Classic, Pebble Beach, Amelia Island, accept Tubi Style manifolds on 355's or only OEM without exception? Or, can anyone suggest how one can find out? Thank you.

 

Contacting the head of judging for FCA might be a good place to start. If he can't answer, he may direct you to the proper person. A note to Rifledriver who is a judge at Cavallino might be a good person as well.

 

Thank you for the tip. Have a great day.

 

IMHO, the best aftermarket option for 355 headers are Tubi. 4-2-1, proper materials and heat shields with insulation. They look the closest to OEM to boot.

I can appreciate your question and concern as I'm a bit of a purist myself, however, if the choice comes down to concourse with poor OEM headers or Tubi and lose a few points, I'll lose the points

 

The 355 isn't close to old or rare enough for Pebble or Amelia, so nothing to worry about there. I'm sure it might cost you a few judging points at Cavallino, but I don't think they would flat out not accept your entry. I've never put a car in cavallino though, so I'm not certain.