Tools for Major Service

Have your local Snap-On dealer to drop by once a week during his normal route. That should cover it.

 

typically the only specialty tools are for getting the nut on the back of the flywheel off, aligning the clutch plate, triple seals installation (most do it without one)

You will need a 22mm allen wrench to do to the oil change part..other then that, its pretty straightforward as far as the tools go when doing a major service. I have seen people make devices to lock the cams so that they dont move during removal and reinstall of the new timing belt but clearly a degree wheel is the only way to do it properly. I had a lot of difficulty getting the 6 frame bolts on both sides of the subframe back on...and make sure to tie fishline or something to the ecus so that it will be easy to pull them back through once completed...

 

fatbillybob has a good thread with pictures of his setup for measuring valve lift, you need something to ride on the piston to find TDC and a way to mount a dial indicator (I made a plate that bolted to the valve cover holes to hold a magnetic base indicator. Even then I needed an angled tip to get around the cam and make sure I was square with the tappet. My thread with pics of this is called '355F1 Engine out' or something similar, a search should find it.

 

I just couldn't get them to line up...took me forever...

 

+1, big PIA. Need a tapered bar or something to get them close (just be careful with the threads).

 

How I agree with you guys.
For these troublesome bolts (19mm across flats) it's useful to have a range of sockets with different offsets and, of course, a 19mm A/F ratchet ring spanner. Some people talk of putting the engine back in 5 hours; I know I took more than half of that time just putting these two groups of 6 chassis bolts back. You would think that with 3 or 4 in place on each "plate" the others would line up easily. The remainder SEEM to be in line but are tight to turn and, of course, you are scared rigid that you are about to strip the threads of the chassis mounting holes. So, you slacken everything off and start again.... and again.....
As said, there's nothing much required in the way of special tools. If you are anything like me (reasonably handy with a spanner and experience with quite a lot of "other" cars) the essential tools are time and patience. Personally, I cannot imagine doing a major with one eye on the clock........

 

if the subframe is correctly oriented, the mount bolts will all screw in by hand.

if you loosen the fuel tank straps and lower the tank slightly, the ecu harness will be easier to fit through, no need of fishing line.

 

You don't really need the 22MM allen wrench for the gear oil change. I just filled the oil through the diick tube. It was pretty easy that way, the 22mm plug was really stubborn.

BT

 

Good one Bill! Wish I had thought of that. The plug was so tight I was afraid that I was going to tear the threads out of the housing. Oh well, it will be easier next time!

 

Obviously I did not fill the gear oil through a diick tube, but rather a dipstick tube. This keyboard may finally be giving up on me. 15 years aint bad though!
I use a kitchen funnel wedged into the dipstick filler (it stays in place by wedging against the next thing above it), and a long tube that is an easy target from above.

BT

 

Never mind what you called it - I understood exactly why it was a good move!

 

Same here - I filled mine through the dipstick tube (I corrected your spelling BT )

I have read elsewhere that it is next to impossible to get that 22mm open, so I didn't even bother to try on mine. You will need a 12mm and a 10mm hex (or allen key as you guys have called it) for the oil pan (which sits vertical) and the gear oil drain respectively, not to mention a 22mm socket or wrench for the drain plug on the oil tank.