Torn CV boot

Mike
I just got done rebooting all my CV joints and it's not a pleasant job....sorry. If it is badly torn I would think replacement is in order and your temporary fix is iffy at best. I think you are correct about the heat and the zip tie would not hold up at least for very long. To do the job might require the removal of the half shaft which entails removing the 12 CV bolts (6 inboard and 6 out board) and they are a bear...just telling you how it is. Now the whole shaft should come out but when I did mine I took everything out A-arm, upright housing, and shaft so I don't know for sure. (I'm doing a total rebuild). You might be able to remove the outboard CV and boot then slide the inboard boot up the shaft to the inboard CV. This would save a huge headache. One other option...a friend of mine had a box of boots that were split up the side and you would just wrap it around the shaft and glue the split closed. I didn't know such a thing existed but he had a box full. He also said they were guaranteed to leak. If someone doesn't know a better way or you can't find the split boots let me know and I'll check this box of split boots to see if there would be any that might work on the 308. Let me know PM.

 

It is not really a bad job, just a messy one. The boots are the same size as the 928 CV boots and I think that I payed under $10 a piece for them online, no need to pay a premium for the Ferrari set. I would not really worry about melting the zip tie as it not really an issue, I mean what do you think the boot was made out of? Good luck and use the Search function here, there was a really good write up about the process a few months ago.

 

I did a zip tie as a temporary fix also. I would definitely make sure it is only a temporary fix though. If left alone, the grease will "fling" everywhere and not only make a mess, but also destroy the CV joint. When I had to replace mine, I did consider the split boot, but figured I'd do it right. I don't know...maybe the split boot would work OK. If you do replace it, just be careful not to strip any of the allen head bolts. Also, if you remove the half shaft, you might as well do both boots on that shaft. And YES, it is a messy job.

BTW, I did find some hose. I only have about an 18" piece. Let me know if you want it.

Hank

 

I had the same problem last year, taped it up with duct tape to get me to the garage where they replaced it. My symptoms were billowing white smoke from the engine bay as the grease splattered onto the underside of the rear exhaust manifold. I bought a fire extinguisher that afternoon!

 

Is there any grease left in the joint?? If so,just zippy it up if you can and go and buy another 2 CV boots and do the job properly asap. Avoid driving it like that,as dirt ect.... can enter the joint and increase its wear very rapidly. The zippy tie may melt,if its that close to the exhaust? See how you go with that one. The type of grease that needs to be used is a moly based grease. Castrol MS3(dark grey grease) is a good one to use and should be readily available to you. Post your pics and good luck brother

 

Remove and replace the boots yourself. Everything that I've heard is that the messy part is the PITA...the actual diffuculty is not bad at all.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78188&highlight=CV

I just ordered a boot kit and some Redline CV2 grease. I'll be doing mine this weekend.

 

FYI. if and when you rebuild your joints carefully remove the "cir-clips" I thought "it looks like a $0.25 part so I'll just get new ones". After weeks of searching I straightened out the old ones. I could not find anything...and yes I tried VW and Porsche and dune buggy dealers. The CV Joint manufacturer did not return my calls or e-mails.

 

I have read in previous threads that the bolts are VERY tight, therefore,

1) Soak the threaded end in pb blaster the night before removal.

2) Clean ALL of the gunk out of the allen head, to enable the tool get a good grip.

3) Use a new good quality tool, like Snap-on.



After being quoted $75 locally for a Ferrari CV boot, I bought a 4 boot kit, bands and grease from McCann for about $55.

hth,
chris

 

If you have access to an impact wrench, it is a very easy job. You can get the metric socket allen and a long extension from Harbor Freight for very little $ and it will be a breeze. I understand you do not have a well equipped shop but you may find a friend or neighbor willing to help.

There is no need to hold the nuts while undoing the bolts. They are, however, locknuts.

Once the bolts are removed, the shaft should come out without easily. Reinstalling is just as easy.

Without an impact wrench, it can be a bear to remove the CV shafts but, other than that, you should not have any problems.

A caveat. If you use the metal bands that fold on themselves with 2 little tabs that hold the band on, make sure that you tighten them very snug. Use some lock pliers to get hold of the band while the CV shaft is in a vise and apply a steady pull keeping the CV joint stationary at the time you bend the strap back. If you use this kind, you will understand what I mean.

Best of luck.

 

Mike,

Before you go and get a impact gun, try soaking them first and see how that goes. The nuts butt up against a little lip and will not turn. I just used an allen wrench and "cheater bar". I still have it, let me know if you need a hand.

Henry

 

I wouldn't advise using an impact wrench here. Why? Because it is a tight space and it can be difficult getting the hex socket situated squarely into the bolt (particularly so with a bulky air wrench, even with a variety of extensions), and, if you're using an air impact wrench here you're likely to thoroughly strip a bolt or two and then you're really screwed.

Best tactic is to take it one bolt at a time - you'll need to keep rotating the wheel/hub and putting the gearbox in gear (or use the handbrake) for each bolt as it's difficult to access more than one bolt at a time. As mentioned elsewhere, you'll need a variety of different extensions to find the right positioning/combination.

Finally, the nuts are lock nuts and are additionally designed to seat against the body of the CV joint to, in theory, avoid the need to hold the nut while unscrewing the bolt. However, if your CV's have any degree of corrosion or exposure to the elements you'll probably find that a nut or two will go ahead and deform and twist around anyway - not a great outcome. So, best to try to get an open ended wrench on the nut before this happens.

Yes, it's a PITA, however, if you work steadily and carefully you can do both sides in a reasonable days work in the garage. Have lots of paper towels ready.

The porsche boot kits work great - have used them on my Mondial and they are an exact replacement. Why? Because the CV axle and joints are exactly the same Lobro units used on 911's from the late 70's to the late 80's. Good luck!

 

Agreed – get the 911 boot kits. A boot was replaced on my 308 and the clamps that now come from Ferrari don’t hold tightly. As the axle turns the boot flexes and pumps grease out the end, which is then thrown up onto the muffler shield. The column of smoke rising from the engine bay is a bit distracting. The Porsche clamps are much better.

 

If you rotate the wheel to access one bolt at the time, you will have a nice straight shot. The tecnique is to put the socket on the bolt first and then, with a 24" extension on the impact wrench go to the socket. I use a 3/8" extension with a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer. Now you are working very comfortably from the open space in the wheel well. No need to put the car in gear or apply the brakes. You may need to finish unscrewing the bolt by hand. The impact wrench is only to break the bond.
Penetrating fluid is always a good idea to use.
Now, I am talking about the inboard bolts (the one that are usually a problem).

For the outboard bolts, just do it by hand with a quality allen wrench. They seem to be easier to undo.

If you mess a bolt up, I would believe that Mcmaster Carr has the proper bolts in stock for very little money. I do not remember the size, unfortunately. If, on the other hand, you mess a nut up, Dennis Mcann should have them for $ 8.00 or so @.

I have done it "by hand" and with an impact wrench. I had to cut a couple on nuts with a dremel with the "by hand" method. It took a couple of minutes with the impact wrench.

As you can see I slightly disagree with other members and I am sure there are several different acceptable methods. This is just my own experience.

The important thing is that you can do it yourself saving a few $ and having the satisfaction to have done (possibly better than some professional) on your own.

 

When the half shafts are reassembled and the bolts are torqued to 60 ft/lbs (correct me if this is the wrong torque) how do you get to the bolts? Can you use the 2 ft ext.....doesn't that affect the amount of torque???

 

I'll check the manual tomorrow for the correct torque setting - 60 ft/lbs sounds a little high.

Yes, you use a long extension which allows you to tighten the bolt where there's some room allowing for the swing of the torque wrench.

No, the use of an extension in itself does not affect the torque applied to the bolt.

As stated elsewhere in the thead there are differing views on the use of impact wrench or not - obviously, plenty of ways to skin a cat. One thing I would recommend regardless of choice between free hand or impact wrench is use of an open ended wrench on the lock nut to hold it in place as I have seen these rotate before (frequently) against the cv hub which thereby removes the shoulders and you're left with nothing to grab and a dremel job on your hands - not fun.

Good luck!

 

You may also want to check on an air wrench, not be confused with an impact wrench...kind of looks like a socket wrench for an air compressor.