Torque values for oil sump cover nuts? | FerrariChat
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Torque values for oil sump cover nuts?

Discussion in '308/328' started by DiscoInferno, May 30, 2007.

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  1. DiscoInferno

    DiscoInferno Formula Junior

    May 8, 2005
    281
    Helotes, TX
    Full Name:
    James Humphreys
    #1 DiscoInferno, May 30, 2007
    Car in question is an 85 308 qv with a badly aged oil sump gasket which leaks oil out through the nuts securing the sump cover on the bottom of the car. I'm getting ready to pull the cover and replace the sump gasket (and burning incense, etc that I don't see something really ugly when I pull the sump cover off and have a look at the bottom of the engine!). Anyway, I was curious as to a recommended torque value for the cover nuts as I don't really want to strip any of the studs. I am going to do the gearbox sump gasket as well and have all new nuts and spring washers for the whole thing. I presume they are all tightened to the same degree. No torque value was listed in the WSM (of course) and I was planning on using the old "tighten it until it doesn't leak anymore" but if someone knows a legitimate torque value for these, I'll use that instead.

    I replaced a bunch of hoses this last weekend (fuel and water) and took some pics etc. so I'll try to get that written up and submitted for Birdman's collection of 308 how tos (which I think will be a great resource for everyone who loves these cars).
     
  2. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    Dec 26, 2001
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    Newman
    #2 Newman, May 30, 2007
    Watch for falling balls and springs when the trans pan comes off and you have to remove the dipstick tube and extension into the case to drop the oil pan.
     
  3. pad

    pad Formula 3

    Sep 30, 2004
    1,426
    Tequesta, FL
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    Paul Delatush
    #3 pad, May 30, 2007
    6.5 foot lbs torque. Important- remove dipstick / extension tube first. You may need to remove the Front Right engine mount to get to it. It's a B#%#$ when the engine is in the car, so do that first. You can not remove the oil pan without removing the tube. You will also have to remove the oil temp sensor. Have fun....
     
  4. DiscoInferno

    DiscoInferno Formula Junior

    May 8, 2005
    281
    Helotes, TX
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    James Humphreys
    #4 DiscoInferno, May 30, 2007
    Thanks to Paul and Pad for reminding me about the dipstick tube and oil temp sensor (I would have forgotten until the oil pan wouldn't come down). For the gearbox cover is it obvious where the springs and balls come from and how easy is it to put them back?
     
  5. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #5 Newman, May 30, 2007
    The springs and balls, 2 each are at the drivers side of the pan at the edge and are the detent balls for your gear selection. 1 of the 3 is pressed in under a plug so it wont fall out. Hold them in with grease prior to putting the pan back on.
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    Steve Magnusson
    #6 Steve Magnusson, May 30, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  7. DiscoInferno

    DiscoInferno Formula Junior

    May 8, 2005
    281
    Helotes, TX
    Full Name:
    James Humphreys
    #7 DiscoInferno, May 30, 2007
    Thanks again, Paul, I appreciate the help. And Steve, kudos for finding the photo as it is indeed worth a thousand words. One last question, what is the general consensus here for using rtv sealant along with the gasket? I want a good seal for the gasket but don't want to glue the thing together and make the next removal a real b!tch.
     
  8. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #8 Newman, May 30, 2007
    Put it on dry, thats the biggest problem I see with leaks. The purpose of a gasket is to seal the surfaces, adding another layer of something as insurance often causes a leak or worse, plugs passages from the excess spilling over inside the component being sealed.
     
  9. tatcat

    tatcat F1 World Champ
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    Sep 3, 2001
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    rick c
    #9 tatcat, May 31, 2007
    one thing, while you're in there think about replacing your shift shaft seals. they're just o rings really. they're not expensive. the hardest part of the job is taking the pan down. there is a great thread on replacing the seals. search for shift shaft seal. it has lots of tips, like using grease to hold those slippery balls and springs in place when reinstalling the pan. good luck.
     

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