TR/512TR Blower Transistor Connector P/N? | Page 2 | FerrariChat

TR/512TR Blower Transistor Connector P/N?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by xplodee, Sep 5, 2018.

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  1. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3

    Jan 3, 2017
    1,101
    Allentown, PA
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    Tim
    Is it clips or screws holding this top cover on? I am terrified of breaking clips on this part since I havent removed it yet.
     
  2. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3

    Jan 3, 2017
    1,101
    Allentown, PA
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    Tim
    Inspected rheostat: its the new type without fuse despite my car being an ‘87. Must have been replaced in the past.

    However, the new transistor did not solve the problem. Perhaps problem with rheostat? I will attempt to probe the connector which would plug into the transistor to see what is going on.
     
  3. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3

    Jan 3, 2017
    1,101
    Allentown, PA
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    Tim
    So upon further inspections its clear my car was wired for the 6-wire fan switch but has a 4-wire plugged in.

    Perhaps this is why Im not getting anywhere? Could someone confirm if the 4-wire switch can be installed into the six-wire harness without any other modifications?


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  4. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3

    Jan 3, 2017
    1,101
    Allentown, PA
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    Tim
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,149
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    #30 Steve Magnusson, Sep 11, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2018
    The later TR schematic (showing the 4-pin fan knob ECU) implies that it should just plug in to the 6-pin harness and work. However, the wire colors on that 4-pin fan knob ECU that you show do not match the F 140151 fan knob ECU (see the pic of 140151 in post #21). Are there any markings or label on the 4-pin ECU you have?
     
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  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,149
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    Also, are the four wires in the 4-pin ECU that you have in the same four connector positions as shown in the drawing in post #6 of that older thread you referenced?
     
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  7. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3

    Jan 3, 2017
    1,101
    Allentown, PA
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    Tim
    Steve-

    Firstly I cant thank you enough. Trouble shooting with you is a wonderful experience and I just hope I dont waste your time with silly responses to your to-the-point advice.

    My switch definitely appears crossed as the wiring nor label matches the one previously pictured. However, the wiring does occupy the same connector pin positions. I cannot tell if the pin-outs are electrically the same without knowing more about the “correct” switch.

    Please see attached pictures:
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  8. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,149
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    Yes, that's the difficulty, but there sure seems to be a lot "correct" with that switch (manf name, red wire is where F puts +12V, and if your full speed is working). Some measurements you could make with the switch plugged in (if it works like the F part):
    (wire colors on the switch side not the harness)
    1. Voltage from red wire to ground with key "on" = should be +12V
    2. Voltage from red wire to yellow wire with key "on" and AC "on" = should be +12V
    3. Voltage from red wire to black wire with key "on", AC "on", and knob speed at maximum = should be +12V and blower should be at full speed
    4. Current in green wire with key "on", AC "on" = should be a small value (like 10s/100s of mA) that varies up-down as you turn the speed knob below maximum (and the fan speed should vary).

    Try some of that...
     
  9. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3

    Jan 3, 2017
    1,101
    Allentown, PA
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    Tim
    Had a eureka moment!

    Brought the fan control board to work to inspect with my electrical engineer. Everything probed out the way we expected it to.

    Right before we were about to shrug our shoulders we noticed the browning below the four 10ohm resistors. This led us to inspect the resistors closer. Well wouldnt you know it- as a result of all of the heat/cold cycles one of the resistors leads had worked its way out of the solder joint. I touched up the solder joints and hope that this will resolves the problem.

    All of these resistors are wired in series in the green wire circuit, when one was open then no current was moving through that part of the circuit at all.

    I think its possible my stock transistor is still working. Hope so!


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  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,149
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Yes, an open in the green wire path would just kill the not-full-speed operation so that does seem hopeful. Amazing how simple that "Fan Speed Regulation Unit" really is inside ;)
     
  11. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3

    Jan 3, 2017
    1,101
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    Tim
    Yup. Super simple. Id make a whole new board and parts before paying $400+ for some NOS one. So far my experience with the TR has been easy fixes solve most problems.

    Keeping my fingers crosses that this is the solution.
     
  12. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3

    Jan 3, 2017
    1,101
    Allentown, PA
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    Tim
    It worked :)
     
  13. Natkingcolebasket69

    Natkingcolebasket69 F1 World Champ

    I sometimes wonder how come u know so much! Awesome help as usual!!


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