TR Clutch Assessment - Help Needed

The notch is from a worn throw-out bearing..........pressure plate rides on "sticking" bearing, causing the groove. I had this in my TR, but the bearing made noise..........yours will too eventually. I would replace the bearing.

I would re-install the clutch, however, leave out the 6 washers (spacers). This will put the clutch discs closer together, and tighter. Why wait till they slip. This will give you more life from the clutch.

Alignment is simple. Find the 'H" letter, written in white, on each disc, and assemble them where the "H" is 180 degrees apart between the two discs. The "H" stands for "heavy" side of the disc. The other parts are balanced individually, so they can go together regardless where placed, in relation to the other parts.

My guess would be that you have another gear alignment problem????????.........possibly wearing synchros?????????

Good luck!

 

It sounds like alignment. How does it shift about 5k rpm? If it is still hard?

Put the car in 5th gear at idle. Let out the clutch, If it stalls, it's an alignment or synchros. If it slips, it's the clutch.

 

How easy, or not easy, was it to get the clutch discs off of the spline? Full disengagement requires that both clutch disc hubs move a little along the length of the spline when the pressure plate moves away from the flywheel. If the primary symptom was:

stationary
running in neutral with the clutch pedal up
push clutch pedal down
can't select a forward gear (with 1st maybe being worse than 3rd)

then I'd vote for just lack of lubrication on the spline (BTDT). If the parts are within their useable dimensions, I don't see any reason why you can't reuse them (but I'd replace the pilot and throw-out bearings and rebuild the slave cylinder if it's been more than ~10 years).

Had very similar conditions at my first major (32K miles total and 12 years) -- about 60% left on the discs, very dry throw-out bearing, and a rusty spline with a frozen clutch hub -- been working much, much better since relubing.

 

I would not replace the pressure plate. This is only replaced when new clutch discs are installed, and the flywheel resurfaced........IMO. The discs, flywheel surface, inner plate and pressure plate should be done together, when new discs are needed.

I would replace the discs only if I see the slanted slots at a minimal depth.........seen on both surfaces of the disc. I you could see all slots, then leave it alone. If the slots are gone, then the disc will gouge out grooves in the flywheel, which will need repalcing............expensive, I think!!!!!!

 

I didn't mean lubricate in the sense of applying a significant amount of grease -- it's not an area where you want a lot of grease flinging about. More a process of cleaning up the loose rust dust and then wiping down the steel surfaces of the spline and clutch hubs with a thin grease film so they don't rust so quickly from atmospheric moisture (think "like doing a wax job to the paintwork", but just with a grease instead of a wax).

Any general-purpose chassis grease would be OK IMO.

 

Hi.........

Ninety-oneTR is absolutlely right about the lubrication.

Look at the pictures of the input shaft and the splines. Rust and/or dust on everything !!! There must be free movement, even if it is ever so slight, to allow the clutch discs to disengage from the flywheel during shift action.

Clean up every part with compressed air....and wear a mask.

Check the Ferrari TR workshop manual for recommendations for routine clutch service....or a great mechanic.

Frank.....23005

 

The pilot bearing is the ball-bearing mounted in the end of the crankshaft (it receives that small diameter spud on the end of the clutch shaft). It will be on the SPC page that shows the crankshaft and flywheel (not the clutch stuff).

I don't have my TR SPC with me so I can't comment directly now, but one thing that may be confusing is that part of the hydraulic path is built into the clutch housing IIRC (i.e., the hydraulic hose attaches to the clutch housing which has internal passages that eventually convey the fluid to the slave cylinder chamber).

 

Charles: I would align the "H", on the discs 180 degrees apart from each other, as stated. Then, I would place these at a 90 degree angle to the "H" on the pressure plate. Make sure there isn't an "H" on the middle steel disc........if so, then align it at 180 degrees in relation to the pressure plate.......my middle steel disc did not have an "H". I would think that the pressure plate is balanced, and the "H" is just used during the balancing process, and not necessarily signifying that it is actually heavy at that side, once balanced. The fiber discs are probably not balanced any further, after production...........just my opinion.

It is the slave cylinder that moves the throw-out bearing. There are seals there that should be replaced..........square type O-rings.........2, if I recall when I did mine.

 

It was suggested that the splines be lubricated with chassis grease....

Once installed, the clutch 'friction material' (AKA discs) will wear and circulate within the bellhousing and splines. Grease will attract and hold the friction material within the splines. Makes the lubricant into a grinding compound. Not good.

I'd suggest 'at most' a silicon spray, lightly applied - with all excess removed.

It seems to me that this location is best left clean, dry and burr free.

I'll leave my flack jacket off for this one - I'd like to hear more opinion. Can anybody confirm what the factory(s) do?

Rgds,
Vince

 

I had a Tr with difficulty changing gears and went through what you have been looking at. my clutch was about 70% worn at the time. Your clutch plates look to have plenty of plate left compared to mine. I fixed linkage alignment and after fiddling with everything we(ferrari Mechanic) and I decided the problem was perhaps slow synchros due to low miles and therefor we changed gear oil and added a racing additive however you must be carefull as some additives can react with copper/brass etc in gearboxes so ensure the additive is ok to use in the older gearbox. I commented on this in a previous thread and gave name of product which is a usa product used by drag racers and racing drivers. Archives may have something on this it was in november 2003 or thereabouts. Antway the gearbox was a lot better. still a little hard when cold but once warm was almost perfect. It just seemed to free up the synchros.
Hope this helps. If you can not find the thread email me and I will call the dealer and ask for the name for you.
regards tony

 

I haven't read all of the posts so this may be a repeat but you have another issue to look at here.

Your flywheel and pressure plate are cooked! Look at all of the blue hot spots in the pictures. I bet that if you run your fingers over the flywheel it will feel somewhat bumpy as you traverse over those "blue elliptical" hot spots. It will not be much-but it will be there.

This is caused by excessive clutch slippage.

You should get the flywheel turned true before reassembly and look at either a new intermediate plate of turning that also. (I am not sure that is possible.)

 

Charles - I have scanned this thread, and have had the same difficulty in engaging gear while at rest. However, the simplest solution, and one that I am surprised that no one suggested, is to simply bleed the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder at the bell housing. Often air or dirt will enter the system over time. This would have been an easy first approach.

Now that you are fully disassembled, I would replace the throw-out bearing and, perhaps, the pressure plate with grooves on it.

Jim S.

 

I know this is a late post but anyone considering the splined lubrication might want to consider a dry option. I was put onto a dry film lubricant by Dow Corning #321. It is extreme temperature -325 to +840 F applies by spray, drys quickly. I've used this for my single lug wheels which have been a significant trial in years past. I'm rebuilding my clutch now and plan on using. As with any lubricant it will wear but it may help for a considerable period and definitely won't attract dust like normal grease. Hope this helps. If you need more info you can contact me.