TR clutch will not disengage

Master, slave, pressure plate. Probably one of those.

Complete your Profile.

 

Does the clutch pedal take the same amount of force/pressure to depress, as it did when everything worked okay?

Are you sure you have fluid in the system, or that the system is completely full?

John

 

Then it sounds like you're back to the throwout bearing or one of the parts that 2NA suggests.
You could probably connect a pressure gauge at the slave to confirm the oil pressure being sent to it if you're a DIYer, or just have the car flatbeded to you favorite shop if you're not.

John

 

So clutch not disengaging fully or at all. Ok, u have pressure at the bleeder, so the master is probably ok. Has to be the slave (i.e., its not pushing or not pushing enough, hard to say from ur description if it feels like you have no pedal feel) TO bearing (i.e., worn to point it cant push enough, or simply disintegrated), or possibly boken/worn springs/fingers on the clutch plate ( if broken...again the TO bearing has nothing to press against, or worn to point they cant be pressed in enuf to disegage the clutch).

Marcus

 

I am guessing the car sat for a bit.

more than likely the clutch plate is rusted to the flywheel or pressure plate.

very common...

Regards, Jim

 

If you've already been into the clutch you won't have any problems.
Let us know what you find, and better yet, post some pictures as you go!

John

 

+1

Did mine 2 yrs ago.

Same symptoms on my 86.

 

Well, at least the problem is no longer a mystery!

When I did my Boxer clutch, I had it relined by Clutchmasters. I sent the entire clutch and flywheel, and they re-surfaced the flywheel, intermediate plate and pressure plate. Then re-lined the two disc's and balanced everything.

The link below is the write-up I did at the time. Maybe it'll be of some help to you.

John

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168509&highlight=Clutch+Replacement

 

All frictions Inc. Relined my clutch plates last winter for $90 for each plate. Make sure you keep track of the "H" marks when you disassemble as the clutch assembly is balanced. There is paint on the aluminum ring and pressure plate also that need to stay together also. You may not need to remachine plates if there is no damage and hot spots are superficial..you can have a shop hit them with light abrasive and see if they clean up. Pins are not easy to find. I had to machine new pins as they broke removing them from flywheel so I could machine flywheel. Also, after you get parts ready to assemble, the repair manual has a formula and drawing showing how to measure to determine the thickness of the spacers. They will change If the relining of clutch is thicker than stock or you remove metal off flywheel,center plate (if it is two plate clutch) or pressure plate. You may know all this but I thought it might save you some headache if you didnt.

 

I did my 360 clutch about two years ago when i still had it. The factory clutch started slipping at 12k. Dealer wanted $3600 for a new clutch which of course is rediculous.

Took the tranny out myself and sent the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate into www.hrclutch.com in PA. Had it reworked with combo ceramic/kevlar clutch plate. They surfaced the flywheel and p-plate and replaced the springs/fingers etc. It all cost about 600 if i remember correctly.

My friend now has the car, clutch has about another 6k and is holding up to his shinanigans.

I went with ceramic/kevlar as i have read in a few places that the pure kevlar clutches last forever but can slip. Have suffered no slipping with the kev/ceramic combo.

Lastly, if you want to go really "cost effective" and Not exotic, any local brake/clutch machine shop should be able to replace the linings easily for less that $100. There is nothing much special about these clutches.

Good luck

Marcus

 

Pete, please .... these postings are almost worthless without pictures ...did you make any ?

Please share .....

 

Ok, not the best pictures, but you can see the "H" marks on the clutch plates and you can see the hot spots on the center plate and flywheel. I assemble them back in the sme way 180 deg from pressure plate "H". If you look at the clutch plates, you would think there is enough friction material left and that I should not have needed to refriction the clutch plates so soon. That is what I thought, but after investigating, I discoved that the surfaces had been machined in the past and the flywheel pins with the shoulders were not machined to match the amount of material removed so the pin shoulders were interfering with the pressure plate at the pin holes and the spacers were not actually determining the gap like the design calls for. Previous owner did not see this and it was difficult to determine untill the complete assembly was clamped together to take measurements for the spacers...and even then we almost missed it. After machining new pins to the correct shoulder and machining new spacers, the new clutch will wear longer now and not need to be changed as early. If you note the hot spots, since there was not metal on metal and the slipping was not too bad yet, the plates did not require more than a dusting cut to bring them flat and clean again.
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Did you remove the distributor/s to do the clutch work?

John

 

please check of you missed the ground cable to install again to the engine ????

 

With that symptom, plus already confirming that you have spark present on both banks (and assuming that you do have the grounding reassembled correctly), the next place to go would be to confirm/deny if the protection relay/10A fuse is working correctly. Try a search on "TR red wire" for prior threads/information on how to measure (and give a shout back if you can't find it).