TR headlight motors torque sensing? | FerrariChat

TR headlight motors torque sensing?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by jratcliff, Nov 27, 2008.

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  1. jratcliff

    jratcliff Formula 3

    Sep 7, 2004
    1,024
    Texas
    Are the headlight lift motors torque sensing? Originally I had a problem with the right headlight blinking continually (not stopping). I checked the diodes and they are ok. I checked the cam and it appears ok. If the lift motor is torque sensing then is it from the linkage or the stops? The lights will stop if you give the light assy. a grab with your hand. It appears it is hard on the stops.

    John
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,826
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    I don't think it is that "intellegent". There are also microswitches involved, and by placing your hand on it during operation you might be dampening things enough to prevent some switch contact bouncing from occurring -- just a thought...
     
  3. jratcliff

    jratcliff Formula 3

    Sep 7, 2004
    1,024
    Texas
    Hi Steve,
    The problem is when free of the linkage it will turn 360 degrees without stopping. It does this with the linkage on too! I checked the diodes and they are ok. Using the knob on the end of the motor I can rotate the motor and switch both contacts. I checked against the other motor which is working correctly and it shows the same readings. I switched the relay controlling the right lift motor and it still functions the same. I would think that the motor should rotate a certain amount then stop and when switched again reverse rotate. Any thoughts?

    John
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,826
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #4 Steve Magnusson, Nov 27, 2008
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2008
    No, the schematic shows that the lift motor should only rotate in one direction, but it should rotate - then stop in the "up" position -- then rotate in the same direction and stop in the down position when given the command to go down. It is possible that with no physical load (i.e., the crank arm disconnected or if the microswitch position is not well-timed for when the bucket contacts the physical stops), the system has enough inertia that it's "flying past" where it should be stopping (even though the switches are working). Of course, this is more work, but you might try the same test (crank arm disconnected) on the working side for comparison -- but before going there try:

    1. unplugging and reseating the three vertical connectors on the RH side of the fuse-relay panel -- the signals from the microswitches pass thru these connectors to reach the relays, and

    2. measure the voltage between the 85 pin and the 86 pin of each lifting motor relay while giving it up and down commands and see if you can detect a difference in behavior. You'd need to do this with the relay in place so it's the kind of thing where you'd wrap a wire around the male pins on the relay and then plug them in -- the male pins on the relay should be long enough to make connection even if the relay isn't really fully seated down.

    If #1 doesn't help, and #2 does show a difference, give a shout, and I'll look harder at the schematic ;)
     
  5. jratcliff

    jratcliff Formula 3

    Sep 7, 2004
    1,024
    Texas
    Steve,
    It did continue to rotate with the linkage on and the arm adjusted. That was why I originally thought it was diodes. I will try the connectors first since this is the easiest, then go from there. Will keep you posted.

    John
     
  6. jratcliff

    jratcliff Formula 3

    Sep 7, 2004
    1,024
    Texas
    Steve,
    I made multiple fixes before testing so I don't have a defintive answer to what fixed it, but I will go through what I did. First, after removing the motor I tested the diodes and everything was ok. I then decided to re-solder all connections and check to insure that the wiring was not broken at the joints from fatigue. I then insulated well and moved on to the connectors which I removed and checked. From there I removed the vertical connectors to the main fuse panel.

    Decided this was a good time to repaint the battery tray with some rustoleum paint. One of the problems I have is one many of us share and that was where someone before me decided to do multiple wiring excursions (radar detector, alarm system, etc.). So I have decided to bite the bullet and remove all these things.

    To answer one the questions you posed, yes the motor will stop in position with the linkage removed. So, I am now off tracing misc. wires to nowhere. Thanks for your help.

    My next project will be the seat belts.

    John
     
  7. Mr.Chairman

    Mr.Chairman F1 Rookie

    Mar 21, 2008
    2,987
    New Jersey
    Full Name:
    Robbie
    There is a seat belt recall and the Ferrari dealer should replace all seats belts for free. Was not sure if you knew that.

    R
     
  8. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,826
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Thanks for the feedback John (about the lifting motor action with the linkage disconnected). I know what you mean about not knowing exactly what might have been the trouble. IME just getting in and making a measurement can be enough to shift/vibrate/flex things around so that the problem goes away -- but glad you got it sorted!
     
  9. jratcliff

    jratcliff Formula 3

    Sep 7, 2004
    1,024
    Texas
    Hi,
    Their not recalling what I'm doing. I have a personal hatred for those belts and there comin' out. Motors, track, wiring, ecu's, everything.

    John
     

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