What is the difference between this... Ignition Coil Ferrari Testarossa 1989 1990 Part 143413B | eBay ....and the OE Magnelli units.....besides price. The connector appears to be different. A single 4 spade connector Vs 2-2spade connectors on the Magnelli's. While Im waiting for my fuse box to come back, I have a spare $300+/- bucks in the Maintenance department. A) New fuel injectors (mine have 11,000 miles on them)? I'm inclined to soak the old ones in solvent, blow them out with compressed air, test for spray pattern and just replace the 'o' rings with the little green ones. B) New ignitors for the original Magnellis ? C) New fuel pumps? D) New Tyco relay set? E)? Just trying to be proactive, nail down an intermittent heat soaked poor running issue and be preventative......what would you spend the $300 on? Hookers and crack is not a choice.
Don't follow your point (or terminology) here. The early TR used the coil with the 2x2 spade connectors; later TR use the coil with the 4-pin waterproof connector. Try a search on "AEI" for prior TR coil threads -- this is a particularly good one where Juri has given a lot of useful TR coil part sourcing information: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/279017-testarossa-coil-module-thread.html
Neither of those you listed.. Save a few extra bucks and get the gold connector kit.. Once you establish a solid connection foundation then you'll know for sure if your components are failing.. No gold kit - your just guessing and throwing money in the trash. R ps.. dont make me say I told you so twice.. lol.. You want to check something... check your brakes and hard rubber lines
Steve, mine look like this one. The car is a 1990. Thanks for the link to Juri's thread. Now I know there is an affordable alternative. Image Unavailable, Please Login
How do you know it is the coils causing your problems? Below is a standard test procedure, don't throw money away as Mr.Chairman states. "This testing procedure is valid for most automotive coils. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective."
I wonder why my TR has the early style coils. I hooked up the multimeter between the two 2-prong connectors at the bottom of the coil and got a value of .4 on the 200 Ohm scale. Then took a reading from where the big red distributor wire plugs into and one of the 2prong spades. 3.82 on the 20k Omh scale. The other coil has the similar values (.4 and 3.74). DISCLAIMER....Im a remove and replace sort of weekend mechanic as far as skills go. I just bought this multimeter a few days ago. Investigating electrical systems is not my specialty, but im trying to learn as much as possible while contributing was I can. With that said, Im reasonably confident that the coils are good. I did find this earlier thread about the AEI 500C coil and this member had similar results below: Quote: David, I had the coils off to clean up the corresponding support bracket and decided to pull out the multimeter and do some measurements. My findings were not what I expected for a 12V coil. The primary resistance (measurement between positive and negative terminals) was 0 ohms. I was expecting a low figure here (0.3-1.0 ohms) but not 0. The secondary resistance (measurement between distributor lead and negative or positive terminal) was 3800 ohms. I was expecting a higher figure (8-10k ohms). The reassuring thing is that both coils had the same measurements. I know there are several 3x8 owners out there that switched to direct coil ignition and I wonder if they'd be willing to check some resistance measurements on their old coils to confirm my measurements.
