TR Major - Crank Stop for Cam Timing | FerrariChat
Buy

TR Major - Crank Stop for Cam Timing

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by vincenzo, Feb 25, 2008.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    #1 vincenzo, Feb 25, 2008
    Does anybody know where I can get a 12mm crank stop?
    Or
    Where can I get a plain old 12mm threaded rod in the same thread pitch?

    Other suggestions?

    Be warned!
    Contrary to their "Ferrari" claim... the Eastwood "Kit" does NOT have a 12mm crank stop.
    http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=17081&itemType=PRODUCT
    Of course... I figure this out AFTER the engine is apart!

    Thanks,
    Vince
     
  2. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

    Oct 30, 2002
    3,426
    Alabama (was Mich.)
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    #2 carguy, Feb 25, 2008
    I made a small bracket that bolts down where the flywheel access "window" goes. It just locks down into the flywheel teeth and holds the crankshaft stationary. It simply bolts down using the 2 studs that normally hold the little cover plate down.
     
  3. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    #3 vincenzo, Feb 25, 2008
    Thanks Jeff... I was intending to use the crank stop to help me determine TDC & get the cam timing established.

    Fortunately, the front crank bold came right off with an impact driver (after an overnight shot of Kroil - GREAT stuff). The engine didn't move at all! The short bursts of torque were insufficient to overcome the engine's stiction. I was pleased & a bit surprised... the plugs were even out!

    I suspect it may have been undertorqued at the prior major service (not me!)

    Surprisingly, most of the spark plugs were way under torqued as well. The prior service tech apparently did not torque to 17ftlb and then back off the plugs before retorquing to 15ftlbs. Likely he went straight to 15 ftlbs and called it 'good'. Of course, the gasket didn't hold the torque!

    No wonder I hate having somebody else do the work on this car (or for that matter - ANY of my vehicles).

    Now if I could only get this water pump seal figured out....

    Thanks again,
    Vince
     
  4. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

    Oct 30, 2002
    3,426
    Alabama (was Mich.)
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    #4 carguy, Feb 25, 2008
    I get the crank at TDC, and then lock it down. I make reference marks somewhere as insurance if anything moves, same for the cams. I used a degree wheel on my cams a couple of years ago to verify timing, and on my car the builder's marks on the cams and retainer caps were spot-on. The cam mark was centered exactly into the cap mark (the cap mark is wider then the cam mark). I also found that it took 1.5 - 2.0 degrees of cam rotation, in either direction, before the cam mark was outside the cap mark. The valves were near perfect for clearances...thank goodness - saved me the trouble of doing the shim adjustments.

    I feel the same as you do about these flat-12 motors, they are very well engineered and put together. The more people that know this about these motors....maybe the better their perceptions about TRs.
     
  5. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    #5 vincenzo, Feb 25, 2008
    Once I get new belts back in place per the marks on the old belts & the gears... my plan is:

    ~ use the 12mm crank stop to 'stop' the piston about halfway up the compression stroke, note the setting on the degree wheel and then come back around the 'other way' and note the setting. Then split the difference for TDC.

    ~ then set the #1 cyl valve clearances at 0.50mm and then confirm the start of valve opening on the degree wheel. Then do the same on the other bank on cyl #12.

    Perhaps I can get a machine shop to fab a 12mm brass or aluminum rod... sounds like expensive lathe time. Wish I had a machine shop!

    As a side note:
    You said:
    "I also found that it took 1.5 - 2.0 degrees of cam rotation, in either direction, before the cam mark was outside the cap mark."

    I noticed the same thing, but did not have the degree wheel mounted to measure... Perhaps the wider cap mark represents the 'acceptable' range for timing. The manual calls for timing within +/- 1 degree. If your 1.5 to 2.0 degree value is 'overall', then that would represent the tolerance (+/-1 deg) for cam timing. I'll look to confirm once i get the degree wheel mounted.

    Many thanks for your input,
    Vince
     
  6. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
    BANNED Professional Ferrari Technician

    Apr 26, 2006
    3,664
    New England
    Full Name:
    David Feinberg
    #6 fastradio, Feb 25, 2008
    Vince,

    The spark plug tightening, then loosen to re-torque process, is truly what separates the amateurs from the pros. I am constantly amazed at just how many times I come across this. Recently, I pulled some plugs in a Ferrari that has only been serviced at "Authorized Dealers" and get what...the spark plugs were finger tight, although the crush gaskets were indeed crushed.

    I suspect that a large percentage of the complaints "my car runs poorly, blah, blah and blah" and the countless wasted dollars spent on "not needed" parts can be traced to loose spark plugs...

    Back to our regularly scheduled program,
    David
     
  7. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    #7 vincenzo, Feb 25, 2008
    Thanks David... but if I had to make a living at this like the professionals - economics would force fast and loose.

    I did find a 12mm crank stop... as soon as I googled under "piston stop"!

    http://shopcranecams.com/pisstoptopde.html

    It is exactly what is needed- should be here by the weekend.

    Thanks for all the input and support!

    Rgds,
    Vince
     
  8. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    #8 ernie, Feb 25, 2008
    Nice find, as is the price.
     

Share This Page