The photo is at the far rear of the passenger side fender - over the wheel well. What is it? How to disconnect? I recall way back... a discussion about the disconnect of this unit to be 'oddball' & recall some folks damaging the plug upon an attempted disconnect. The cable appears to unscrew, but then seems to hit a stop. A light tug doesn't seem to separate the plug. Can somebody describe how this connector works? Thanks in advance, Vince Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, Back off the nut as far as it goes and wiggle off the cable slowly. All 3 are the same way. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
The outer (rotatable) coupling ring has two wrap-around points (or tabs) that engage a male thread so it's sort of a simultaneous action. Unscrew the coupling ring CCW (as viewed looking down the cable into the box) and withdraw the whole connector out from the box (moving at the pitch of the thread for each rotation) at the same time -- note the linear guide (key) slots on the center portions in this jpeg. Don't sweat it -- it's probably already broken or frozen so bad that you can't get it apart without breaking it Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks to all... Thanks too for the pic Steve - it was a big help. When looking at it, I was thinking that the 'inner nut' was securing the mating part of the connector to the panel and that the 'inner' would separate from the 'outer' upon removal. Glad I didn't get agressive with it. All it takes is a light twist of the 'inner' nut (ignore the 'outer') and it pops right off. Thanks again, Vince Image Unavailable, Please Login
Glad you got it sorted -- I'll add a few keywords here (good for searching) that will tie this thread to some others: C12 Brand: AMP Part Number: 206837-3 (or 206837-1) C13 Brand: AMP Part Number: 182645-1 available at www.tycoelectronics.com Image Unavailable, Please Login
Steve - once again, you are amazing. Fchat is very fortunate for your expertice. I really appreciate all your posts! many regards, Vince
Well, at least it was -- I saw your other post with a picture of a white TR and was reflecting on my happy days owning my similar car, SN 83958. Then, in this thread, I was able to read the SN from the frame in your picture -- whaddayaknow, one and the same! Great to see the car getting loving care. Any chance of getting a bit of background on your history with it? (Feel free to PM). I bought the car used (as the second owner) at Lake Forest Sports Cars just before Thanksgiving of 1992, and traded it in on a new 512TR in December of 1993. My wife and I drove it from Chicago to Pittsburgh for Thanksgiving '92 -- and I treated myself to an expensive ticket by getting caught going 93 on the Ohio Turnpike. Very enjoyable car -- if I recall properly, it has the brown dash rather than the more standard black. The car won second in class for me at the Ferrari Fantasia concours in 1993. The only issue of any kind I encountered was with a leaking (poorly installed) cam cover gasket on the driver's side -- quickly fixed by LFSC, but something to be aware of as you do your major! Subsequently, I received a message at one point from a buyer/prospective buyer who planned to take the car to Alaska -- don't know how that panned out, and it was several years ago at this point. Anyway, would love to hear more, see more pics, get up to date! Best, Gary
Hey Gary! Good to hear from you once again! Yup, I'm they guy in Alaska who contacted you in ... what ...... 1997 or so(?) Still in Anchorage. This is my second 'major' with this car. I am the 4th lucky owner. Never did get to meet up with Mario, who had owned the car in Las Vegas for a short time prior to my purchase. The car has a bit more than 17k miles on it now. One thing about AK, it is not conducive to racking up a huge amount of miles with our limited driving season. Not to mention employment etc demands that take me away from the car for months at a time. The car has been great. Couldn't be happier! I intend to keep the car a long, long time & look forward to retirement at Lake Tahoe with this car! Life is sweet. La dolce vita per TR. Finally decided to do hyper-flows & an x-ost system. The sound clips posted on youtube sounded really good with x-ost. The tubi was too sedate & the others sounded too shrill. the x-ost sounded just right. We'll see. We'll chat more. Gotta sign off now - it is getting too late. Thanks for the post! Best Regards, Vince
Have you been able to buy these connectors directly from Tyco? Typically they don't want to sell a quantity of less than 1000. You can find the 24 pin at one of their distributors, but no-one has the 9 pin 182645-1 connector. Where have you purchased them?
No, I haven't, and the only report here has been people buying the 206837-1 (and no data sheet on the tyco website for 182645-1 maybe confirms your trouble in finding it). Don't know just what bits you need, but if you match-up some of the characteristics (shell size, # of contacts, series 1, etc.) you might find something fairly close or modifiable or different material or something that if you replace both sides might work OK (if the keying or pin layout is different), etc.: http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Connect?C=10574&M=FEAT&BML=10000-C,10219&LG=1&I=13 I didn't search or research extensively (that's your homework ), but 206708-1 looks darn close (except for the slightly different coupling ring knurl/shape shown on the .pdf product drawing): http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Connect?C=1&M=BYPN&BML=&PID=27576&PN=206708-1&LG=1 Please post any info/substitutes that you find.
I ended up finding a sympathetic salesperson that is going to get me some samples of 182645-1 (which I guess is standard in the industry if you are going to order thousands of a part). I usually find that the large connector is the one that has the tangs broken off. But this time both connectors were broken. At least they are easy to replace.
Vince -- Great to hear from you again as well! I know that you were quite thorough in checking the car out before buying it, and it's great to know that you still have it and plan on keeping it. I'll look forward to further updates. In the meantime, all best wishes, Gary
From another post of mine, concerning THIS post: "One of the complaints about this post was that these guys (Tyco) are the manufacturer and you have to buy around say 500 of them. Well, in the 10 years since this post was originated, they have integrated links with several distributers so you can buy in quantities as low as 1."
I got all the parts from Digi-Key. $35 all in including the tool to press out the wire connectors. https://info.digikey.com/index.php/email/emailWebview?mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiTTJReVlqZGpZelEyTnpreiIsInQiOiJsbm03bHVIOUUzV05YNHZQb1h3dVV3NXhzVDdJY0FiY0FzWkxUSE1SNk1MVmFnS1lFakxIZkRCTWg3aHo5d0NUdkIrWVNYS0M5eklpTE5jL0RSQ3ZqbjBnM29POUx5cEpRR0lkamxrQk5pb29Xc21OQmgvN0ZweXlFaEw1bTlhWCJ9
TurboJoe and Kartboy, Turbo, I had a crimping tool already. Kartboy, I have the extraction tool but dont remember the part number off hand. Do a search of my previously started threads and I think I listed it. If you cant find it, I can grab it out of my tool box and send it to you. [email protected] is the best way to get a hold of me. The tool is super cheap and they make them based on the gauge of the wire. You can get a set of them for dirt cheap on Ebay. It looks like a big syringe needle that pushes back (goes over) the flanges inside of the cannon plug so you can extract the wire. Push it in and pull the wire out the back. I did it one wire at a time to avoid confusion. Extract one wire and install it in the new cannon plug. Then move on to the next wire. I also cleaned all the connectors with 1000 grit sand paper to make sure there was optimum connectivity.
Thank you for the offer. I will inspect the wires a little closer and see what it takes to undo the pins. I found a set on Amazon that could work. If all else fails I will contact you about borrowing the connector tool for a weekend. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
