TR oil change recommendation

I've always purchased online from Bavarian Autosport (bavauto.com)

 

I wanted to resurrect this thread because I have been checking the service records of my car for the last 7 years and I see very different opinions even across Ferrari dealers.
1 manual states Agip Sin (Synthetic) 2000 10w-50 (1988 manual)
2 then there is the service bulletin changing to Shell in 1996 to 5w-40 synthetic on ALL earlier models
3 Ferrari of Atlanta put Quaker State (?) Euro 5w-40 Synthethic in 2011
4 Algar (Ferrari of Philadelphia) put Quaker State NON synthetic 10w-40
5 Roselli (Independent) put NON Synthetic 20w-50, he told me these older vehicles need non synthetic oil, something about leaks can get worse with synthetic oils.
6 Ferrari of San Diego told me I should use Non Synthetic 10w-50
7 My mechanic (independent) told me I should use 10w-40 Synthetic, he said all Ferraris have been using synthetic oil since year XXXX.

Every single Oil brand myth website states that synthetic oils not good for an older vehicle is untrue.
https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/synthetic-oil-myths

http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/education/know-your-oil/why-synthetic-oil.html#iframe=L3NvcHVzL3Blbm56b2lsLzIwMTZuZXdzbGV0dGVyLz9sb2NhbGU9ZW5fdXM=

https://www.mobil1.co.uk/learning-centre/synthetics-lab/myths-about-synthetics.aspx?p=2

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/synthetic-oil-myths/

So what is the deal?? If synthetic oils are better why not use them over non synthetics (even at dealers), is it that maybe is a bit overkill to use that expensive option, specially when you need 13 quarts (when most TRs are not being driven that much) and a mineral oil will provide the same protection as a non synthetic option if you change the oil every year?

 

From what I have read and researched and with a great deal of acknowledgement from the late George Morrison, aka "Bob the Oil Guy" (Google it), in the early days (1970s) synthetic oil was based on chemical base stocks like polyalphaolefins that did not play well with seals or gaskets. Modern synthetics (petroleum-based) address this issue but contain more detergents in their additive packages and will sometimes clean debris out of micro tears in seals (or improperly installed/ worn out seals) that were formally plugged with particle debris left by using lesser quality oils. From my understanding its not the oil that causes the leak, it just amplifies what was already there. I guess this, and price, drive the anti-synthetic view.

Either way, talking about what oil to use, ranks right up there behind religion and politics, and ties with belt services to get a s***storm started. A little research, your best judgment and what fits your budget is usually the way to go.

You’ll have to do a little research and testing to find a synthetic (if you choose to go that route) with the right amount of anti- wear additives (Phosphorus & Zink) intended for flat tappet engines. I know there are a few out there. Just a note - the synthetic euro blends I have tested, have had very little anti wear additives in them.

I run synthetic 0w20 in my 2014 Honda and get 7-8k miles between oil changes just to let you know I’m not anti-synthetic. I just hate the price of it. LOL

My Testarossa is a different story. I get good testing results with the oil I use, and it has consistently tested between 1229/1345 ppm of Phosphorus and 1458/1696 ppm of Zink, and from what I’ve learned it’s just about the right amount, not too much, not too little.

My Testarossa is driven hard, 3-4k a year, and I consider my yearly “semi-synthetic” oil change cost’s to be reasonable.

I also have an oil bypass filter system and change that filter every other year - but that’s another s***storm to be discussed.

14qt Brad Penn @ $5.60 $78.40
Baldwin B255 $13.27
2 washers $ 1.50
$ 93.17

½ of bypass filter $22.00
Oil analysis $23.65

 

And why some dealers use synthetic oils and some don’t??
And Quaker state when Ferrari was already with the Shell contract??


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ive been told its ok to go from syn to conv butnot conv to syn

 

but this is only because the syn wíll loosen all the dirt that the conv made the last years, and then all is leaking

 

So all the “dirt” is actually helping with some leaks? In a new car that will not make any difference but in a 30 years old car better to have a bit of dirt to prevent leaks?


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It's more so for the minerals and rubber seals - especially for older cars. Using synthetic oil in my 1956 Olds Rocket 88 makes it leak like a sieve.... My modern Maserati = 100% synthetic etc...

 

it is not only to prevent leaks. old seals always getting touched with the oil and the sync oil is toally different and so this sync oil changes the rubber material of the seals. and then they will leak. and the debris of the engine what is all around will get loose. also the old aluminum sometimes is like a sponge and the thin sync oil is leaking through

 

But we are talking about cars how old??
The model from the 50s when there was no synthetic oils I understand it, but the TR original recommendation was to use synthetic oil, so why the change?
I asked my mechanic today and he said it is totally fine to use synthetic, just by adding new oil (synthetic or mineral) if a car was not leaking before because of the “debris” brand new oil will make the leak appear.




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you are right fernando. but when you used long time conv oil at the TR and then change to sync you may get problems

 

No problem with mine. In fact after I did my last heavy repairs, no leaks at all!!