TR rear bonnet cable broken

You need a steel rod (or screwdriver) about 15~16" long and 3/16" diameter. By poking it thru the rear metal screen inboard of the RH taillight assembly you should be able to push on the lever (that the cable pulls on) to release the latches. I don't have time now, but will post a jpeg this PM (if anyone already has such a photo, please post now).

 

You have zero luck with cables.

 

Here are some jpegs showing my suggestion. If you use a handled screwdriver to make the tool, the shank length will need to be at least 13" long; if you use a bare 3/16" metal rod, you'll probably need it to be at least 16" long to have enough to hang on to and push. Grind a ~90 deg notch into the end of the tool as shown in this jpeg:

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These jpegs show my mock-up using a 3/16" hardwood dowel, but you'll need to use a metal tool as the force required to move the lever is not small. Give a shout if you have any questions, and please report the results.

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Steve,
you are amazing...........

 

Use care not to put pressure on that top inboard taillamp white housing....

 

Thanks for the kind words Gents -- but we'll see how well it works

Not sure that a long-armed tech couldn't just reach up from below past the end of the muffler if the car was up on a lift. Obviously, F didn't initially think it was an issue because they did have an emergency cable for the front bonnet on the early cars.

 

strange!

mine is a 87 and has for the rear and for the front an emergency cable to open.
so may be the ones from 84 or 85 has none?

but this steve told and showed in the pics will work fine.

 

Have someone make pics when you open her please !!!

 

Glad that you got is sorted/opened.

Interesting to note the other small design differences between the early and late mechanisms -- e.g., the plastic pivot bushings for the shaft running between the two sides on your early TR vs the plain metal U-bracket with holes acting as the bushing on the late TR...

 

No he isn't he put the oil drops down on purpose to make us feel better

 

We'll have to search harder for evidence, clearly that cardboard was soiled before it was put under the car, nothing to leak in that corner...

That said there is quite a lot of dust buildup in that engine bay...

 

I'm bringing this thread back to life because I have broken two of those stupid release cables. Currently I only use the backup cable. I'm sure it will break soon too. I've got to get that fixed. But first.....build the gearbox, attach it to the engine, put it all back in the subframe and reinstall in the car.

Kinda makes the cable look like not a big deal. But jeeez, that cable broke the first time within 2 months of ownership. The second cable broke within 3 years of replacement. Why are these things so junky??!

 

Did yours break at the handle end (where the braided cable goes into the metal loop fitting)? The designer of the handle somewhat messed up -- the cable lines up perfectly with the exit hole when the handle is in the down position, but, when you raise the handle, it puts a huge bending moment on the cable-to-fitting joint. If so, a couple of things to try are:

1. instead of just fully tightening the screw holding the loop fitting, leave it a little loose (and secure the threads with something like Loctite 222), and chamfer both sides of the hole in the fitting so it can sort of move like a Heim (spherical rod end) joint,

2. Don't just yank up maximum on the handle to where it stops -- only raise the handle enough to release the latch mechanism.

Just some ideas...