Trans Pan Gasket...Dressing?

back when the surfaces were nice smooth a plain gasket was fine, I like the 518 in this aplication, it will allow easier clean up if you should remove it again. Don't need much, I thin it and use a small roller to aplpy to gasket evenly both sides.

 

518 is meant for use without a gasket. It needs to be applied to one clean surface and allowed to squeeze out. Only the sealant in the joint will harden, the excess is wiped away. Obviously it is a good idea to minimize the amount that squeezes out inside.

For a paper gasket the Hondabond is a better choice. Apply a thin coat to both sides.

The most important part is to have perfectly clean, oil-free surfaces. Every trace of silicone should be removed with carb cleaner and a small wire brush.

 

trichloroethylene

I like this because it will be easy to clean up in the future, I hate cars that come in after having been 'cobbled' together with no thought of future users needs! And it takes a lot of time to clean this type of surface up, I now start by pulling the studs to do a better job in reasonable time.

 

I appreciate your concern for others but if you really want it to be easy next time use Hylomar.

It will certainly leak after a while but will be easy to do over.

 

Whatever you use needs to be applied on both sides of the gasket. It is easier if you coat the upper side of the gasket and the upper surface of the pan rather than trying to get both sides of the gasket.

Make sure the surfaces are CLEAN (tricky to do under the engine I know).

 

Jim,

Typically I clean all the gasket surfaces, just prior to reassembly with Acetone...

In terms of snake slime on the pan gasket, I suspend the gasket using a piece of safety wire...and spray both side with Permatex Spray Gasket Adhesive/Sealant. It comes in a small spray can...and the sealant is red and sticky. Let it set up for a few minutes and then reinstall the pan. Torque to 78 in-lbs., the wait an hour of so, then retorque.

I suspect the stuff works well, as I never had a leaker (from that area) and when it does come time for removal, the gasket will usually just peel away.

David

 

Jim - if it's Loctite 518, just follow the tube instructions. These products are anaerobic, and cure only when in absence of oxygen, and in touch with the metal (per Loctite site spec sheet), but still stay flexible. Any of the stuff that is not in touch with metal, may not fully cure, such as excess that squeezes out. Loctite also sells a curing agent to speed up curing. I bought some of that, but it contains acetone, so I suspect that's mostly acetone anyway. I just use lacquer thinner to clean metal surfaces first... it evaporates faster than something like mineral spirits.

 

I agree with Rick ref the loctite 518. Followed his recommendation on my 348 sump....no leaks

 

Used HONDABOND, VERY thin on the outside 1/3rd of the gasket on both sides.

About 6-9 months ago and not a drop so far.

 

Jim, if you see any weeping and want to give it another go, then I'd recommend also checking the pan surface to see if it's true. You can buy a really good straight edge or take it to a machine shop for a check. Often, with older pans you'll see some distortion around the bolt holes and the pan face is no longer flat - in other words, the pan face along one run/side looks like the cable spans of the Golden Gate Bridge. Getting that to seal properly is very difficult. If it's not true then a machine shop can face it pretty easily by taking off a few thou.