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Transmission issues need help

Discussion in '360/430' started by Stan Camacho, Sep 8, 2018.

  1. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    Hi Guys today I did a TCU swap to 197533 from an 03 but i getting a negative response 12 - vehicle ECU does not support this service when I first connected got Fault 3 I can change gears but it seems I cant make any changes to the TCU but when I had my old one at least give me a choice to change any ideas?
     

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  2. jg360

    jg360 Karting

    Feb 8, 2018
    170
    New Jersey
    Full Name:
    John Gurrieri
  3. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    When I click to check the codes selected function not supported it seems it's not communicating when I do auto scan but when I just select the transmission module I can access it and see the perimeters settings from the previews Ferrari I tried to change the clutch setup ccp from 17.996 to old setting 18.067 not sticking the PIS is almost what is required at 4.79 my old one was 5.77 can it be the software on the ecu's too old and not communicating properly with this newer TCU to program it, the one thing strange was since I plugged the new tcu started working no blank display like the instructions mentions I can change the gears with the paddles everything else seems to work just concerned about the difference on the clutch setup settings already did a self learn and passed I started the engine and changed gears but not test drive yet.
     
  4. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    Well I have replaced the tcu with newer one changed pis settings and no change also bleeded the f1 changed the f1 relay to 50amps and pump, I'm getting a clutch degree wear at 13000 I'm assuming there is a lot of sleepage also the sccp self calibrated is around 18919 even 19000 when I change the pis I kind of had enough of getting stuck everytime the engine gets realy hot or the f1 not sure I lose Reverse after driving bit longer I cant change gears and goes to N I have to let it coll down to be able to engage gears again, i have order f1 bearing, f1 block, sensor, and a used clutch and flywheel almost new at 7% wear so 93% left the one thing I'm not sure is what i should do since its almost new should i consider new? If so how do I start with the settings after replaced what kind of messurements should I do before install if any or do I use the new clutch settings of my old one?
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  5. vv23

    vv23 Karting

    Jan 8, 2009
    151
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Full Name:
    V V
    I'm having similar issues as you on my F430. Drives fine for the first 30 to 40 mins. Once hot, falls out of gear and becomes eratic shifting or will stall.

    Have to wait for it to cool down, then drives normal again.

    Code reading i'm getting is the clutch position sensor p0806/p0807. Bought a new one, should be installed this week.

    Hopefully fixes it.
     
  6. billy.gif

    billy.gif Karting

    Mar 9, 2017
    226
    Finland
    Same here.

    After car gets warm, the 3rd -> 2nd change will get stuck (cant engage 2nd) and will throw Neutral. After car has cooled down, will work until warm again.

    Rebuilt F1 Actuator - no help. Different F1 Power unit + F1 pump from a salvage car - no help. No error codes. No visual leaks. No drop in hydraulic pressure.

    Real PITA.
     
  7. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    Check the f1 block beside the engine I heard sometimes has a hairline crack that when hot is just enough to let air in to the system
     
  8. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    In your case you have the error codes to go by that's a good starting point
     
  9. SoftwareDrone

    SoftwareDrone F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Jan 19, 2004
    6,195
    San Jose, California
    Full Name:
    Mike
    I have a stick shift, but have struggled with the exact same problem. Car won't shift gears when warm, works perfectly when cold. It turned out to be a cracked shifter bushing, a common problem with these cars. The bushing is made of plastic, and is more pliable when warm. Hill Engineering makes an aluminum version. It's not an expensive fix and can do it yourself.
     
  10. vv23

    vv23 Karting

    Jan 8, 2009
    151
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Full Name:
    V V
    Replaced the F1 sensor...my issue is now gone.
     
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  11. vv23

    vv23 Karting

    Jan 8, 2009
    151
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Full Name:
    V V

    I had the same issue with 6th gear before. Worked fine while cold, then wouldn't go into 6th while hot.

    Had to bleed the 6th gear line. Ran fine after
     
  12. billy.gif

    billy.gif Karting

    Mar 9, 2017
    226
    Finland
    Sorry my rather stupid question but what does bleeding a particular gear line mean? What I understand the F1 Power Unit is only mechanical unit where's different "solenoids" (or gadgets) for a particular gear?
     
  13. vv23

    vv23 Karting

    Jan 8, 2009
    151
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Full Name:
    V V
    The F1 pump creates pressurized fluid which is held in the accumulator. From that, there are 6 solenoids for 6 hydraulic lines to the actuator...one for each gear.

    As one solenoid opens, the fluid is pushed through that line to the actuator to select that gear.

    If you have an issue in one particular gear only when hot, there's probably air in that particular line.
     
  14. jg360

    jg360 Karting

    Feb 8, 2018
    170
    New Jersey
    Full Name:
    John Gurrieri
    Sorry to point out but that’s not how it works. There are only 5 lines and not 6 one for each gear. The single gear is changed by a combination of solenoids opening and closing front the f1 power unit. The actuator moves and rotates it’s 2 shafts to select to appropriate gear(same as the manual). If you think about it, the manual has only two cables from the shifter to the trans.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
     
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  15. vv23

    vv23 Karting

    Jan 8, 2009
    151
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Full Name:
    V V
    Hmm,

    All good, I recall reading or seeing it that way.

    In any event, I still believe one of the lines may have air in it causing the issue when hot.
     
  16. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    What a big job this is for one person to do it I'm going to need a chiropractor after this just waiting on more parts "next time just order the screws suggested dont ignore it lol"
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  17. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    Parts replaced =TO Bearing, 2 stop bolts, clutch sensor, clutch and flywheel, Pilot bearing, bleed block, set the clutch value to what the current is reading value at 17.570 set the PIS to 4.8 bleed the F1 system went for a drive around the block up down the engine got to hot temperature things were good 30 minutes later boom engine shut down by F1 gearbox B1. scanned the codes P1445 missed, P0422 Active, P1586 missed then managed to get it going again a few minutes later boom again could shift again scanned P1741 missed, P1742 missed, P1710 missed, again with P1748 missed, P1746 missed, P1745 it looks like I still have the issue from before or similar after replacing these parts the car gets to hot temperature and I get F1 issue like before the F1 flashes between gears sometimes . the battery is around 3 years old not sure if if would cause this I need someone with a lot more experience to kind of guide me a bit take specific readings maybe when hot or cold to diagnose it better not quite sure if the F1 when hot is loosing pressure faster then normal I have nothing to compare to, runs fine for the first 40 min from cold until it gets to hot temperatures or if I drive a bit more aggressive maybe sooner
     

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  18. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    #44 Stan Camacho, Jul 21, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2019
    Checked the F1 actuator screws x3 and they were very tight also with loctite managed to lose them and did a bleed anyway did a short drive after around the block not as long as yesterdays test but I noticed the F1 flashing sometimes if someone with experience on this guide me soon would be great I would like to enjoy the car for the rest of the summer thanks.
     
  19. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    Just wondering if someone can post a recording of your f1 when hot to compare with mine, this recording is after driving for half an hour my gears start failing with code p1745, p1746, p1748 popped out of gear in to N and no R looking this recording the car is parked in N but the f1 pressure seems to lose pressure fast for just seating in idle would be nice to have other to compare
     
  20. becir1

    becir1 Rookie

    Oct 9, 2008
    16
    Germany
    Hi Stan!
    I drove the same time with my car as you, driving for half an hour. I have a video with the engine running with gear in neutral. And a video with engine off, only hydraulic pressure test.
    If your engine is running and your gear is in N, the hydraulic pressure should be kept for about 1 minute until the next pumping.
    I hope it helps you.



    Hydraulik Pressure Test with Engine off.
     
  21. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    Hi becir1 thanks for doing this, it looks like they are semilar at idle I might maybe loosing pressure wile driving air or something or gear selection sensor potentiometers but kind of expensive to replace for just a guess thanks again
     
  22. becir1

    becir1 Rookie

    Oct 9, 2008
    16
    Germany
    Hello Stan!
    That seems to be a thermal problem.
    Whatever could be, that is one of your solenoid valves from the F1 unit is broken. You could find that out by getting yourself a can of icing spray. You drive the car until the error reoccurs, then use the icing spray to spray a solenoid valve of your choice, then try again to get a gear in. You do that with every solenoid valve. Until you got the right solenoid valve. If you have found the right solenoid valve, the F1 must work again immediately. You have to remember the solenoid valve which is broken and replace it.
     
  23. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    I will definitely check that and post my findings thanks
     
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  24. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    38
    Winnipeg MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Stan C
    #50 Stan Camacho, Sep 1, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2019
    Stuck in traphic after driving for 20 min was in 2nd gear coming to a stop droped to N couldn't engage any gear but I could hear the pump trying every time i pressed the lever up after 10 min must of cooled down managed to engage 1st drove home had to stay in low gears parked at idle and I couldn't engage gears again R is the first to go scanned the tranny readings see below can someone with experianced please look at readings to see if anything sticks out, can it be one of the oil lines, gears wouldn't engage with engine on or off by pressing up i could hear the pump going crazy by holding the paddles for 10 sec f1 light would come on and go off and switch to auto but still no go,
     

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