Transmission issues need help | Page 3 | FerrariChat

Transmission issues need help

Discussion in '360/430' started by Stan Camacho, Sep 8, 2018.

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  1. mwstewart

    mwstewart F1 Rookie

    Feb 5, 2014
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    Mark
    I haven't looked at F1 for a while nor checked your codes against the database, so do verify my advice, but those codes sound to me like the F1 paddle assembly has a fault.

    The paddle switch pack has an up, down, and a standby output - the standby being a redundancy measure for if the up or down switch fails. The fact you have an error for all three outputs suggests to me that there is a wiring problem between the switch and TCU or a problem with the switches themselves.
     
  2. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    43
    Winnipeg MB Canada
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    Stan C
    Hi, would this happen even when in auto when I'm not using the paddles?
     
  3. mwstewart

    mwstewart F1 Rookie

    Feb 5, 2014
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    The TCU constantly checks the status of the paddle switches so will log the codes even if in Auto mode.
     
  4. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    43
    Winnipeg MB Canada
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    Stan C
    You probably right but why is it happening only when it gets hot wouldn't that happen at any time can it be the gear selector sensor giving false reading when hot?
     
  5. mwstewart

    mwstewart F1 Rookie

    Feb 5, 2014
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    Yes, it could happen at any time. The codes above certainly look paddle switch related though.
     
  6. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    43
    Winnipeg MB Canada
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    Stan C
    Hi just wanted to see if someone can confirm when replacing a clutch what new settings needs to be set to the tcu or do I leave the old settings and just change the pis, when changing pis settings starting point at 4.2 and go up until the car doesn't roll in first gear anymore also do this when cold or warm, the steps needed after the clutch is replaced would be nice thanks
     
  7. Skidkid

    Skidkid F1 Veteran
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 25, 2005
    8,753
    Campbell, CA
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    John Zornes
    You have to set up the TCU for the new clutch.
     
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  8. kes7u

    kes7u Formula 3
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    Oct 18, 2017
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    Using a device, check the CCP for your new clutch. Then write this value as the NewCCP. Then, as your clutch ages, and the CCP value updates, you will be able to assess clutch wear.

    Then adjust PIS with the car warm.

    Kevin
     
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  9. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    43
    Winnipeg MB Canada
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    Stan C
    Hi Kevin thanks for replying it's been a couple years that I'm able to enjoy my 99 Modena f1 100% because when it gets hot I can only drive for about 20 min and jumps to N sometimes when I'm still moving by pressing the paddle up or down I'm able to engage to a much higher gear other times it won't engage until I stop for 20 min cools down then I can start engaging first couple gears but not R until it's cooler I'm about to give up since my only option in my city was a Maserati dealer I was going to take it in to diagnose but they informed me that hey don't have the SD2 for Ferrari so I'm stuck diagnosing this myself that's why I bought this scanner that is able to write to the TCU, so with the car cold I will check the "self-calibrated closed clutch position" should be around 17.57 mm and write it on new clutch configuration and then drive it to warm up or just idle it until it's warm what's best? Then turn off the engine and start the PIS at 4.2 if the car on first gear if it's not moving should be ok and do a test drive if the issue still there set it to 4.3 and up, at this point I'm not sure if it's a leak on the F1 or the clutch or something else if this doesn't work I will need to pick you brain further if you don't mind or someone else that may have an idea of what's going on and what things to look for thanks.
     
  10. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
    Consultant Professional Ferrari Technician

    Sep 18, 2002
    19,379
    The Cold North
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    Tom

    Sound like you have a bad shift potentsiometer. Those guys are located on the back side of the shift actuator. You will need a scan tool to recalibrate the system once they are replaced.
     
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  11. kes7u

    kes7u Formula 3
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    Oct 18, 2017
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    Your plan is good. Set PIS with car warmed up and running. If you are still having issues, listen to what Tom said. WAY, WAY more knowledgeable than me......

    Kevin
     
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  12. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    43
    Winnipeg MB Canada
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    Stan C
    Is there a way to tell wich one is going bad, they are expensive to replace 2 at same time $1400 each I was checking just the sensor without the cable and reuse the old cable but I'm not sure if they are same sensor or if the cable will just plug in to the new sensor
     
  13. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
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    Dominick
    I didnt read the whole thread so forgive if I missed it but did you try a gear box relearn with your tool

    Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
     
  14. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    43
    Winnipeg MB Canada
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    Stan C
    I did several times in different occasions in the past when cold ok but when I would try when very hot it would fail on the higher gears same if I was driving first higher gears would start failing but lowers gears would still work and then after driving a bit longer would finally jump to N and have to cool down to be able to engage again
     
  15. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
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    Then yes sensors

    Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
     
  16. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
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    Sep 18, 2002
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    They only come as a set. You cannot replace as individual components. Considering the work involved to replace them, It would be shooting yourself in the foot to replace only one.
     
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  17. mwstewart

    mwstewart F1 Rookie

    Feb 5, 2014
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    Pasting below an excerpt from my project thread in case it helps. I had a selection and engagement problem that turned out to be the TCU but as part of my diagnosis I checked correct operation of the potentiometers. Once you understand how they work and can visualise the coordinate ranges in your head or on a graph, you may see if any gear coordinates are way out of spec.

    I advise that you buy a copy of the workshop manual and learn more about F1.

    ________________________________________

    The Superfast 2 conversion is complete and working! This leads me to just about the end of phase two and from here I will MOT the car then just use & enjoy it for a while. The whole (car) project started February 2016 and on reflection has been the greatest, most interesting personal car project I've undertaken to date and I consider myself very fortunate to have been able to do so.

    Like any project with a degree of emotional attachment it had its downs as well as ups! but the learning & satisfaction I've taken from it is absolutely priceless and will hugely add to my continued enjoyment of the car. I now have my dream specification and at the moment I wouldn't change it for anything else!

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    As I mentioned in the opening paragraph it wasn't all plain sailing, in fact at the point it was expected to be a commissioning exercise things proved to be anything but! I will document the diagnosis here in case it helps anyone else in the future.

    Issues and diagnosis leading to completion: paddles
    DEIS was the first of several steps required to commission a new TCU and something was causing it to fail with unsatisfactory results.
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    The NCR/TCU did not log actual DTCs (trouble codes) during the seven or so times DEIS had been run, but thankfully on the next attempt a DTC was logged for a lever error: P1745 LEVER UP and P1748 LEVER DOWN. This pointed to the paddles. I figured out the root cause was a safety feature I'd put in my code that makes sure that at every clock cycle the resistance value is set to 'nothing pressed' if nothing actually is pressed. It seemed that even if the AD8400 digital potentiometer in my module is already set to the value being requested again it momentarily reverts to max scale before setting down again, and this fraction of a second change was enough to confuse the TCU.

    I fixed the issue as part of the v2 prototype and incorporated some ideas that Stef from Scud Ing Swiss has suggested, which included using hardware interrupts for efficiency, implementing a watchdog interrupt ISR(WDT_vect) to reboot the device if a hang is detected, and adding a S14K17 varistor to the power circuit for added transient protection. Thanks Stef.

    Issues and diagnosis leading to completion: Self-learn
    The paddles were the easy part. The F1 system refusing to play ball most definitely wasn't. DEIS would complete with the paddles addressed but self-learn would not get to the point of engaging gears. The pump would prime and the TCU would update the instrument cluster (NQS) with the gear it wanted, but the actuator would not change position. The process failed with a P1741 error for the engagement potentiometer being under the minimum threshold. In this case the threshold relates to the output voltage range of the engagement potentiometer (the wiper) which was recorded by the TCU as less than 0.49v.

    What was interesting to note was much like the DEIS process the error was not stored in the TCU as a DTC but displayed only on screen following the procedure - I've read people referring to 'soft' and 'hard' errors so this would appear to fit the description of the former. Also of interest was that there are multiple categories of error for the same DTC, whereby in the case of P1741 it could be either 'under min', 'over max', or simply 'inconsistent with previous usage' (the TCU seems to record this and does forget it after being disconnected from the battery for a few hours); if the diagnostic tool being used doesn't display the category like an SD3 does then further diagnosis would be required to determine which one is the trigger.

    Back to the P1741 code - it could actually mean one of several things:

    1) The potentiometer was faulty;
    2) There was a problem with the wiring or a short to ground on the pot output;
    3) The NCR/TCU was not providing the 5v reference voltage;
    4) P1741 is just is a symptom: there was actually a problem with the actuator causing the pot to read out of range.

    Checks were performed to address each of the above:

    No.1 - The Scuderia potentiometers were swapped with the known good set from my old actuator. No change.

    No.2 - All of the wiring was checked - not only from the pots, but everything back to the TCU. All OK.
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    For info: the TCU converts the engagement and selection pot output voltages into a 0 - 1024 engagement and 0 -1024 selection range for use as grid coordinates in the gear changing process.

    No.3 - The reference voltage and earth were easy enough to check at the potentiometer multiplug. Again, this checked out OK.
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    No.4 - The actuator was bled and re-bled to be sure. The strange thing was when that observing it off of the car it would go into each gear cleanly if requested by a diagnostic test action so a solenoid issue preventing correct engagement was unlikely, in fact leakage rates for the three selection and two engagement valves were well below the 30 cc/min ceiling so the solenoids should be free to do a precise job. The way the actuator cleanly engaged gears when requested by diagnostics (not during a self-learn but an individual test action) certainly did not give cause to think otherwise.
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    What the actuator did not do however was get neutral; selection was not attempted and the two engagement solenoids would just buzz with the actuator finger stationary in its current position. Neutral should be the middle of the gate between 3rd and 4th. Following the failed neutral engagement the TCU would start doing strange things for a few changes afterwards, like going into 6th from 1st when 2nd was requested. This was the first oddity.

    The voltage output from the pot was monitored during engagement of all gears to see if it did ever drop below 0.49v to trigger the P1741 'below min'. It didn't. This was the second oddity.

    Another check was to ensure that when in gear the engagement and selection position in the TCU were within the factory set minimum and maximum secure thresholds. There are two types of gear positioning information stored in the TCU: engagement - for pushing into a gear i.e. across the gate - and selection - for moving up and down the gate. Each gear has both a selection and engagement value associated with it and there are two categories of those:

    1) Min/max 'secure' thresholds: set by the factory as the absolute safe design limit for the movement of the actuator finger. These are specific to the gearbox and actuator type (including revision/part number- the F430 ones did change over the years so some TCUs should only be paired with some gearbox numbers). These represent the safe range of movement actuator can move within for each gear;
    2) A self-learned min/max value that indicates the optimal position of the actuator finger for a selected gear. These values are learned during the self-learn process and cater for a slight offset of the actuator position relative to the gearbox and/or any manufacturing tolerances. They are overwritten each time the self-lean is run.

    If the gear position is outside of the secure thresholds something is so physically amiss that a self-learn would never start, and conversely would not cure.
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    Everything checked out within the secure thresholds but obviously the engagement position fell outside of the self-learned range. Two things were interesting here: at no point had a self-learn completed so where did these values come from in a brand new TCU?, and secondly the variant of P1741 error related to under minimum voltage - which it never was - so logic dictates it should have been the 'inconsistent' category because the actuator was now moving outside of the self-learned range, rather than providing a voltage outside of the min/max voltage. This was the third oddity.

    Happy there was not a mechanical or wiring issue it could only be the TCU itself. The actual Scuderia conversion was working in terms of all modules communicating and allowing drive mode selection by the Manettino, and bypassing TCU control of the third and final start relay by pinning terminal 85 direct to earth enabled the engine to start and run.

    Issues and diagnosis leading to completion: TCU
    The fun didn't stop: Ferrari have now made TCUs a restricted part that can only be ordered by them with a car in their workshop diagnosed by them as a TCU fault - the reason is a shortage of TCUs! At this point I have a full appreciation of how flaky these modules are, or at least the CFC301s I have experience of. I was not about to send my car to Ferrari for them to come to the same conclusion as it would be a drawn out and costly affair, so instead I looked elsewhere.

    I was fortunate enough to pick up three TCUs from Italy: one final software version (EAGD53W08) and a matched pair of penultimate software versions (EAGD51W07). The CFC301 TCUs have flash programmable firmware so the software version and part number on the case label does not necessarily indicate what is actually loaded, so with each plugged in to the car the version could be confirmed by diagnostics. I now have a spreadsheet of the versions and the parameters contained on each of them which I will use as the basis for another project.

    Getting to know the TCUs a bit more has led me to suspect that the solution to rectifying a 'bricked' TCU lies in the parameter space, so my next project is going to be how to create a virgin TCU image of the latest software type so that I can easily create a spare from any CFC301 donor, and also potentially repair corrupt ones.
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    The good news is all three replacement TCUs worked and allowed the car to start and drive.

    Issues and diagnosis leading to completion: EVF
    With the F1 system operational a new issue reared its head: the clutch (EVF) solenoid had an external leak. Fluid was actually escaping through the electrical connector on the end of the solenoid and filling the multiplug with fluid. This was at times - though surprisingly very, very rarely - causing a DTC for clutch circuit pressure. I forget the code now but it was a symptom as obviously the clutch solenoid was sometimes not opening thus the clutch pressure sensor never saw pressure. It is surprising that a solenoid error was not logged for the EVF!

    The EVF solenoid (PPV02 type in this case) was replaced. I also took the decision to replace the entire F1 loom with a new one given the oil contamination - most likely OTT but provides complete peace of mind.
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    Loom laid out.
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    The loom is quite simple to fit and runs from the RH passenger compartment, above the RH fuel tank behind its heat shield, and into the RH rear wheel arch area.
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    F1 power unit loom installation. It's nice to know everything is new.
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    Misc
    The new Optima 34R I purchased last year failed to hold a charge for an acceptable length of time either on or off the car. Reading a few other stories online it seems I am not the only one to suffer this, though I do note that since last year when mine was new Bosch have taken the Optima line into their portfolio so perhaps quality has improved. I wanted to go a different route this time but ultra-lightweight options such as the Braille and ODYSSEY battery's would likely not be suited to a two week road trip without access to a battery tender, so I decided to go back to a lead acid battery but downsized compared to standard.

    I went for a Bosch S5 005; in terms of amp-hours it is in-between the standard F430 battery and the Scuderia's Optima but is down on CCA. This really isn't a concern for me as although the car will be used in cold temperatures it won’t ever be started in them - my garage never gets below 10 degrees. The 005 will save approx. 4kg over the Optima.

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    The bonnet release handle on the later cars is made from a horrible flimsy plastic and mine had cracked around the edges making it look unsightly. I have replaced it with the sturdier part from a 2006 car. The handle and air inlet ducts are the only parts I've so far found in the late car that reduced in quality rather than improved.
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    The front bumper is secured by four M10 studs with Nylocs and heavy steel washers. There is approx. 20mm of unused thread on each stud which makes removing the bumper a real chore, as access to some of the nuts requires a ratchet spanner. I have decided to do away with the steel washers and install some custom aluminium spacers and thin washers that both save a bit of weight and a lot of time when removing the bumper - the nuts now sit close to the end of the thread.
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  18. Stan Camacho

    Stan Camacho Rookie

    Nov 9, 2010
    43
    Winnipeg MB Canada
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    Stan C
    Thanks for sharing this experience goes to show that this is a very complicated issue to troubleshoot
     
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