Lost in translation...... still means "automatic nut / fastener" --- and, the term "automatic" is inferred to mean "locking without having to stake" ...... as in the case with a nut which has a built-in locking feature, such as a Nyloc nut --- which these are.
Generally, once you completely split one side, you can then spread open the nut enough to just pull it axially off the bolt --- or, depending on the hardness of the material, it will often break into 2 pieces once it is spread far enough.
Thanks Will go for it when splitter arrives. Get the nut off. Get the whole bracket off. Will attempt to chase out the threads on the stud Bought a split die and tap set just now. What can go wrong? Really guys What can go wrong...i'm hoping i can rotate the die by hand...might not be enough room for the handles that go on the die holder to help rotate...but its a small bolt and very short. Should be able to turn it a few times by hand....chase out the threads and...new nut on...and throttle peddle fully on!
If it's a nylock nut then why not heat the living **** out of it and melt out the nylon retaining the nut in the first place? This is an amateur question, I don't have a nylock nut in front of me to examine to see if that would work. D
I think of getting dirty with it like that sometimes but... 1. Limited room in footwell..not best place for hot flame. 2. I'm not certain its the nylon thats stopping the nut..might be the stud's threads not catching the nut at the point where the xxxxing nut is sitting. 3. Good chance of setting my hair on fire.
If the threads have been stripped off the stud/bolt as you indicated in a earlier post there may not be any material left to "chase" new threads on the stud/bolt. If the nut doesn't "grip" the threads, the die may not either. Your split die may allow you to cut a slightly undersize thread but practice on a spare bolt first to determine how far you can go If you can't cut new threads and if you have enough good threads above the damaged area you may be able to stack up some spacers (washers) to clear the damaged area. Hopefully only the bottom 2 or 3 threads have been stripped. Good luck
I nominate this as the wibble nut thread what a strange and long web this hath wrought over the captive hexagon of frustration!
LOL Sometimes it's easier to do a t-belt change than to remove a stubborn, hard to access nut or bolt !
By now I would have cavemaned it and broke the stud off the car with a giant prybar and just reweld a new one or make a new sheetmetal studed plate for the bell crank and tack weld this new plate into the floor if the access is that bad. Total time including fabrication under an hour.
Nice selection of pry bars you offer Tim. Dangerous for me to see juicy little items like that what, with ebay / Amazon etc only a few clicks away! OP - Man up and pry that sucker off. Enough already!
This is entry #88 ...... For 1(one) FRICKIN nut Anything over #80 means resort to long forgotten military still set ...... An immediate application of high explosives is in order ....... The car may very well lose some value so make a YouTube video so we can all cheer at the same time, I am thinking one block molder around the whole bracket should do it ....... SCORE In reality this is the type of sh*t that happens to me ...... Those are definately a "tasty" set of pry bars Tim has, makes me want to hit Harbor Freight ....... I still have stuff from there never opened from my last two trips there. P.S. Yea the tack welding might be dangerous, I reserve the right to retract that one ...... And use the explosives.
Maybe you could just put another nut on the protruding bolt and tighten that nut down ? Yes, there are insufficient threads for a correct fit. When the "outer" nut starts to contact the "inner" nut, try placing an open-end wrench on the inner nut, and tighten them both. The result may be: 1) The "inner"nut gains a little "capture" on the stripped stud. 2) The "outer" nut will force the inner nut closer to the bracket and hold well enough. 3) Easily reversible solution if not successful. 4) Costs maybe $0.02 for an ordinary nut......
Not pretty Bob The mechanism is a thing of beauty...rather not destroy it. Cant reweld new stud....cant prybar stud off either..no space and...... Cant get to bolt head..in box section of unibody Advised not to weld in the footwell...near dashboard electrics or something. Thanks anyways Your way is one way just right now not my way
Tried that Not enough bolt showing for outer nut to hold. I tried resting this nut balancing on the end of the bolt ...it doesnt meet up with the inner bolt to do any good.
Thanks for this info. Question please..... If the stud which currently accepts a 10mm nut is badly stripped of material is it ok to chase it down or rethread it down to accept a 9 or 8mm nut?
It is okay to do........ But, without enough access to turn the die with it mounted in a handle, it will be next to impossible to apply enough torque to cut new, reduced diameter threads. At this point, given all the trials and difficulties, I would be very motivated to locate the bolt head on the other side of the panel ---- it has to be somewhere, and it is likely accessible to some degree. They would not have installed it on the panel and then boxed it in with other steel panels --- it is much more likely that the bolts were installed after the surrounding panels were fitted..... although Ferrari has been known to do some bassackwards crap . Have you removed the undertray panels in that location ---- it may be hiding the bolt head ?
Once you get the nut off use a hexagon nut die then you can cut a new thread using a socket to hold the die rather than the traditional handled die holder. If you are in the UK, Draper do a set. Part number 79198.
David Thanks for the info on turning the die with no handles...i understand. All undertrays removed That bolt head is inside box sections of the unibody No way can it be found without cutting into thick italian unibody steel This i think is why it is not listed in the parts book
If the nut is spinning, but the bolt/stud is not, can you center-punch the bolt, drill it down to the level of the chassis plate, then drill a smaller hole down further, use a tap to cut threads in that hole, and then use an appropriate size new bolt to hold your bracket down? Image Unavailable, Please Login
"If the stud which currently accepts a 10mm nut is badly stripped of material is it ok to chase it down or rethread it down to accept a 9 or 8mm nut?" Yes you could try that but it will be very difficult since the base(root) diameter will not be the correct size and you may not be able to start a smaller die. Depends on how much taper is built into the die. If not, maybe a dremel tool could be used to cut down the end sufficiently so that the die could be started. The idea in Post #98 looks like a good one. In either case, use some cutting oil as it will make a big difference.
