Trunk/Engine area fire wall

That's such an easy piece to make and quite frankly, it a nice piece to remake because you can sandwich in a piece of that aluminized heat barrier material and stop the trunk from feeling like a warming drawer.

Let me know if you want an original one to use as a template.

...Keith

 

They definitely sell copies of the ID plates which you can then customize for your car's numbers. If you don't find an NOS piece and need one to form a copy, let me know.

Cheers...Keith

 

Which piece is it?? Here's the parts book pages. Might help in locating a replacement, but I suspect you're going to have to fabricate it.
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I'll make you a deal. I can send u mine (so you can use it as a guide)& you can make two replacements & send my original back and one of the replacements....I'll pay you whatever you need. it would be much appreciated!

 

I might be interested in this action.

 

The piece is not flat. It has a crease in the middle so that it wraps over the muffler. In addition, the upper edge has a crease. I had a new one made. I gave the fabricator my old one and he made a copy. It still required a bit of modification when I went to install it. It does have an insulating fiber wedged between to sheets. In fact, one sheet fits inside the trunk (lower edge) while the remainder sweeps outside and underneath the trunk (over the muffler.

Jim S.

 

I made a new one easily in 1,5mm alu, ok not original, but it can't burn and with modern heatshield material I've no heat problem in trunk.

ciao/ Bjorn

 

Jim- I'll buy one from your guy. If you get a min would love his tel #. Thanks

 

Tom - He would not be able to provide another one without my taking in my original for him to copy (again). I am happy to do so. I have the original in storage for just such an occasion.

I will contact him next week and take up the original. I think he charged me around $500, but cannot remember. This included the insulating material and dual layer fabrication. It will likely require some modification when you go to install it, such as snipping a corner or so to slide past your frame members.

More to come next week. Beckman is the name of the body fabricator...he is considered one of the best in Southern California and has done many super-high-end alloy Ferrari chassises, etc.

Jim S.

 

Jim- Thanks...I can save you the hassle & just send him my original. Whatever is easiest! Right now I am chasing down a charging problem on the Blue GTS (and have been re-reading your great explanation of what an alternator does). So far I have checked the batt ground but am only getting 12.5 when the car is running at 2000 rpm. I checked it at the battery . I know this will sound dumb but when I check it at the F terminal on the voltage reguklator do I unhook the wire & attach the lead to the tab & then ground the other one? I am going to check all grounds etc tomorrow. Sorry to hijack the thread & appreciate your insights (as always) Thanks

 

Tom - No...when checking the field voltage (F terminal) at the regulator simply touch your voltmeter lead to the terminal. A voltmeter has very high input impedance (resistance) and appears as an open circuit to whatever it is measuring. Thus, it does not disturb the action of the circuit that you are measuring.

The field voltage should move opposite the battery voltage. As the battery voltage goes down, as when under load (lights, wipers, fans, etc.), the regulator senses this and raises the field voltage, which induces a larger current output of the alternator, thereby producing more current for the loads and to charge the battery. As the battery charges (over the period of 10s of seconds), the battery terminal voltage trends upward, and the regulator, sensing this, begins to decrease the field voltage.

Battery voltage should read approximately 13.8-14.2 volts when charging. If at 2000 RPM you are measuring 12.5 volts (assuming an accurate voltmeter), then your charging system is telling you something...and it ain't good.

First - does the field voltage fluctuate with RPM. If not, then either the + connection on the regulator is not making contact or the regulator is not functioning properly. If the alternator is bad, the field voltage should be high (10-12 volts), trying to flog the alternator into producing more current.

Give a call for more discussion.

Jim S.