Turn Signals Hazard Flasher failure

Not sure why a battery change would have stopped the hazard/turn system working. Perhaps a fuse has blown.

The Hazard/Turn module (relay) has two power sources. Fuse 24 and fuse 3.

Fuse 24 powers also the clock, parking lights.. and, I think, the sun visor mirror light, glovebox light, door lights and rear luggage compartment switch.
Fuse 3 powers the steering column stalk switches. Are your reversing lights working? They are also powered by fuse 3.

Do any of these other systems not work?

 

Interesting. They were the things I wasn't sure about. Someone told me they were connected to that fuse. Anyway, they are related to live battery power, so there may be a connection.

Always check fuses with a multimeter. A few folks have gone down a rabbit hole chasing wiring and such, but it has been a fine gap in the fuse element.

Strange. I can't see a connection between the hazard/turn and the fuel filler release. Doesn't the fuel filler release need key power? I don't have a wiring diagram for the fuel filler release.

If you can locate the hazard/turn module, you could do power and signal checks with a multimeter.

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Here's a basic overview of the pins/socket of the module

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The graphic is from a wiring diagram, but we don't need to look at wiring yet. Ignore the 3-digit numbers (328, 190, 191, etc). The module socket has small numbers on it. Check the important ones such as power and earth.

Socket 4 is the critical one as it has live battery power on it. If both your hazard and turn indications are not working, it suggests a problem with this.

 

Regarding your fuel filler flap, are your windscreen wipers and stop lights working? (same fuse, relay panel connector and splices).

Plug J on the relay panel carries power to the fuel filler flap and power to your steering column stalk switches (for turn). Make sure it is secure and that there are no melted wires.

Fuse 21 powers your luggage compartment light, dome light, cigar lighter, OBD port and trunk release. I wonder if some of your other faulty items are linked to this fuse?

 

Sorry, I'm getting my fuel door open actuator wiring mixed up with the fuel door open indication wiring. The fuel door open indication is not a fuse-powered circuit. Well, the instrument panel provides some power and the "open" switch just provides a ground when the door is opened. This will be more difficult to solve. If your warning light is on permanently, you probably have a faulty switch which is permanently shorted to ground. Or are you saying it doesn't work at all?

 

For reference, here is the relay panel with connector lettering and numbering...

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I suppose we should focus on the hazard/turn issue and hope that there is a hidden connection to your other issues. I hope the battery installers didn't damage any wiring in the engine compartment.

Before you remove your hazard/turn module, just try wiggling it with the hazard lights turned on. These modules are notorious for dry solder joints. I can direct you to the exact points on the circuit board which may have cracked solder. Unfortunately, if it is a dry solder issue, you'll also have to buy a soldering iron . At least they are cheaper than a new module/relay. Be sure to buy one with a wedge-shaped tip (for better heat transfer).

When you said your parking lights are working, did you mean using the "P" button on the centre console? The power wires for the hazard/turn module and the P switch are spliced together. If you have no power at the hazard/turn module, I'll be very surprised. Your clock is also spliced into this wiring. For reference, on the relay panel, Plug C, pin 6, provides power to the wiring.

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A possible dry solder joint on the hazard/turn module circuit board here might cause both turn and hazard to fail:

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You may need a couple of small flat bladed screwdrivers to lever the case off. Note that the case plastic is rather soft, so go easy on it. Sometimes the cracks are microscopic. You may have to use a magnifying glass to see them. Wiggle pin 30 on the module to see if anything moves.

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This I don't understand. I assume you mean the green warning light...

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The digital display in the dash supplies power to the lid open switch. If the digital display was not getting power, you'd have a lot more issues.

Anyway, good luck sourcing a new hazard/turn relay. Don't throw your old one away. It may not even be broken... or can easily be repaired.

 

Not sure, but it looks like the hazard/turn module here:

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I had as similar problem with the hazard/turn module on my F355 spider years ago. I popped open the relay and sure enough, under an 8x loupe, I found a bad cold solder joint. I touched a soldering iron on it for a moment, and fixed it right up. I was proud of myself for avoiding the $250 cost of a new relay module.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I’ll try to add a note to my wiring diagram linking fuse 21 to the filler flap warning, although I don’t understand the relationship.

Good luck with the resoldering.

I’m always on the forum, so if you have any wiring issues, my 550 diagrams may help, but they are “a work in progress” and are missing a few wires.

 

Here's a diagram for 550 lights, but it's for USA cars. I don't know if your lights were modified to match the USA specs.

https://www.dropbox.com/t/lxtkgbaw2QqZajLc

Link expires on the 9th

 

Just for the record the pulse relay of the early k-jet is plagued by the same defect, the connectors for the relay holder socket just do not hold well.

With the flasher, and windshield wiper relay these are the only three relays that were not made by Bosch and obvioulsy the ones that keep on failing!

 

(Courtesy of @Al Campbell)
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/146906259/



As per his experience, capacitors can also go bad...