Ugly Dino Restoration

The steering links were also dissembled bead blasted then painted with all hardware plated to the correct color and then reassembled. New keys were cut to fit the lock cylinder since all keys for the car were missing.
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The white paint I use for all back fill in letters and etched detail is just white Rust-Oleum. I let it dry and then either us mineral spirits lightly wiping the area or light rubbing compound to clean up and paint not inside the letter or lines, arrows or what ever.

 

For

Forgot the photo!
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More Parts!
Here are the restored head light buckets. The buckets were rusty on the bottom and bezels were missing. The wiring was not correct for the Carello head lights and had to be replicated. The bezel clips were rusted badly so all hardware was removed and all rivets were drilled out. New clips were made from spring steel and all the parts were CAD plated. I sourced new rivets and made a punch to install them. Everything was painted and reassembled with NOS Carello head lights purchased along with new bezels.
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And even more parts!
The fuel pump, fuel filter and mounting bracket were restored. I only had the fuel filter and bracket in all my stuff so I had to find the Corona pump and condenser. The bracket was powder-coated. A used pump was sourced, dis-assembled and cleaned. New pump rubber isolators were purchased from McMaster Carr. All hardware was CAD plated with new wiring installed. Pump checked for operation and the fuel filter body painted with new sticker installed. I did the art work for the Corona pump sticker and printed it out and cut to size and installed.
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More and more parts!
I had rebuilt the steering wheel some time ago (see earlier post). I was NOT happy with the leather work that was done on the wheel, so after talking to Alberto (swift53) he said he was heading to Italy and knew a "guy" that could redo the wheel. So it headed to Italy and when I got it back, it looked fantastic! (THANKS Alberto!) The car came with a MOMO wheel and the hub had an incorrect bolt pattern so I had to make a new one. A new horn button was purchased. I just have to wrinkle-paint the hub.
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I think all I had to purchase was an O ring. The pump is a centrifugal pump with no diaphragm just phenolic blades. I cleaned the bore and sanded the ruff edges of the blades to make good contact with the bore. The screen on the bottom of the pump was in good condition and the wiring of the motor was in great shape. The case was CAD plated and all was reassembled.

 

The gold cad bolts are Verbus Bolts and the black oxide bolts are Fiat 80 bolts. All Bolts and nuts are original to this car except the bolts for the carb manifold and a couple on the engine that I purchase separately. I'm still looking for those and have some generic bolt right now. This car only had 35K kilometers when it was wrecked so the car has very original parts on it. Over looking all the damage to the car, the parts that are there are quite a time capsule of original hardware.

 

Not to be argumentative but if you look at the Dino blog photos the universal link has Fiat 80 bolt. These bolt should be black oxide not gold cad as are mine, see photo. the other bolts in the linkage are Verbus and should be gold cad. Those bolts in the Dino blog are not shown but if they were I would bet they are also Verbus bolts. My thinking is the these are cotter-pined and I have not seen any Fiat 80 bolts that are drilled with cotter pins and castle nuts. Also the universal joints sholud not be painter black as on the Dino Blog, they should be bare cast iron and the star clips that hold the bearing in should be clear zinc. I painter my joints to simulate the raw cast iron color although I did not plate the star washers. (I may paint them silver when installing) I have also noticed that on the early E Dino's the cad on most of the bolts are clear cad or silver as on the suspension and later cars have a mix of clear and gold. Some smaller hardware on the cars are also plated in clear zinc.

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Also looking at the Dino blog universal it is a different Universal than mine. It is very possible that small parts and bolt could vary depending on stocks that are on hand at the time of manufacture. Or the one on the Blog could have been replaced at some time with a different joint.

 

I just looked up the joints in the parts book TAV 29 and it shows 2 different joints and it looks like my car has two lowers? Superformance shows 2 different joints and the upper is the same as on the Dino blog.
And not to through more wood on the fire but the pillow blocks for the steering rack in the Dino Blog are painted black and mine were clear cad as original on my car.

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OK....this thread in getting toooo long but.... after looking at the non restored photo of the steering linkage, I'm going to repaint the universal joints black and keep the 2 joint with the bolts that were installed with the color cad that I have plated them. Note the yellow torque seal on the original joints and color of the bolts.

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