Uh oh - that doesn't look good...

I don't know about your oil/coolant leak(s), but your hot start problem could be due to one or both fuel pressure regulators failing (it's not always a flywheel grease issue).

Easy to check. Just pull off the tiny black vaccum hose that goes to the back of each FPR (easy to see and reach when you open the engine bonnet).

If there is fuel in your vaccum line there, then that FPR has failed.

Also, your radiator fans can easily blow a fuse (especially if the fan connections have gotten wet). Check your fuses first. If not fuses, then temporarily short the relay for each to see if they turn on. If not a relay problem, clean the contacts on your thermo switch on top of your rightside radiator...and if that doesn't fix it then replace said switch (very, very easy to do).

 

I think it's your name.. and somoene is sending you a message ;-).

 

Well it is not CV grease........ Obvious guess, is the seal in the G-box...

 

Sure looks like cv grease sling to me.....Check boot and tightness of bolts.

 

Peter,

I had hot start problems with my 348. The dealer changes the 2 Fuel Regulators and it solved the problem.

 

Looks like rust preventer to me

 

Hmmmm

The pictures don't show that the cv boots are busted or that the clamp is loose. It looks to me that it's your rear cam cover gaskets, especially the one for the intake cam on the 5/8 bank, or left side of the engine looking in, is the culprit. The gaskets are pretty simple to change and you can change them with the engine in-stu. You are going to need to get new rear cam cover gaskets, and a good tube of gasket sealer. I like Hondabond HT, but some recommend using Permatex sealer. make sure you get the surface good and clean before you apply any sealer. You don't want your problem appearing again. To give you some more room to work with be sure to remove the air box. The whole job shouldn't cost you much, 30-50 quid or so, depending on how much they hit you for the gaskets. Be sure to change both of them.

 

What Ernie said.

 

I'll need to see a few more pictures to make a proper diagnosis.

 

wash all the mess of with brake cleaner, then get the car securely lifted off the ground. Preferably get the car level to simulate normal driving, if you just lift the rear you might not see any rear cam gaskets leaks. Then run the engine in 2nd or 3rd gear. Looking into the engine bay, look for new oil/grease spray, if none yet then rev it up some by hand with the throttle linkage to build some wheel speed. I'm sure you'll find it. Now its so messy under there you may have multiple oil issues.

 

The viscosity is too low to be CV grease....

LOL !

 

If you drove it home, you can drive it to the mechanics....SLOW and Careful.

 

Just pray my son that you won't need a "miracle" to repair.. are you certain that someone did not use the wrong weight oil in the gear box? Or is it just a bearing seal?

 

I suggest checking the gearbox oil level, wiping the dipstick on a white cloth. Compare with the colour of the spilt oil. Do the same with the engine oil. One of the levels must be low if it is leaking so much. How much it is down by may give you some idea if you can safely make it to the garage with a top-up.

 

Peter
I also had hot start problem.
It was alternator problem, temporary installed new one and then replaced with rebuild - problem has gone

 

doesnt look too bad, probably just cost a bag of silver and your soul (Judas?)

 

The pipe you describe sounds like the bleed pipe for the clutch slave cylinder. Have you checked your brake/clutch fluid level recently?

 

Hi Pete. I think the oil you found in the rubber cap has just found it's way in there from the general spatter.

The dipstick, filler plug and drain are usually VERY tight for some reason. I certainly didn't overtighten mine but a year later they were tough to get out. A good socket set is needed, and removing the air filter box helps you get at the dipstick nut.
You could really do with finding out if you have any gearbox oil left - it might not be leaking now only because it is below the level of the driveshaft seals.

 

The T had the same hot start problem AFTER long drives. Turned out to be a overheated solenoid on starter. Ferrari installed a 'booster' from key to starter for $80, and never ever had a problem again.

of course, fuel etc. as mentioned before can be an issue.