ULTRASONIC CLEANERS

Ive been using mine for about three years now and am super happy with it. I usually use a strong mix of Awesome or Simple green with water. If I want a solvent based cleaner I will usually put the parts in a bottle of kerosene and place that in the soap solution. I almost never use my solvent tank any more except for wheel bearings and very greasy bits.

Bear in mind that the sonic cleaner strips paint. Be ready to refinish anything you clean.

 

Some detergents attack aluminum and some simple green is in that category so be careful. I just bought one from Amazon of the size I needed. I usually run it at 90 or so degrees. Time will depend on how long it takes to get clean. Small carb parts should be in a basket so they do not sit in the crud on the bottom. Steel parts like screws and linkage will rust quickly after cleaning so don't let them just sit around.

 

Its a Multool 6.5 liter.

 

What do you guys use in your cleaner? I've been using Zep Orange, but I find that it leaves behind a residue that's kind of a pain to get off.

 

this fairly cheap Amazon one has served me well and I like the bigger 10-liter size......
CREWORKS Ultrasonic Cleaner with Heater and Timer, 2.6 gal Digital Sonic Cavitation Machine, 10L

I use gallon ziplock bags if I can to keep tank clean and not waste the cleaner fluids

 

I also use Zep Orange in my ultrasonic cleaner. Then rinse parts with WD-40 to prevent flashover rust and followed by a wipe down with shop towels. It's messy, but works for me.

 

You can look on Amazon, there are so many options.

 

Something a lot of people may not be aware of is that you can use just plain water in the machine's tub and immerse your part with whatever solution you want in either a glass jar or Ziploc bag and get the same results. Helps keep the unit clean.

 

Simple Green also makes a blend for aviation that is safe for aluminium. You can find it on Amazon.


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This is what I always do. Although my ultrasonic cleaner has a heater I fill it with hot tap water to start with which shortcuts most of the heating cycle. For anything aluminum I have had good luck with Simple Green "Pro Heavy Duty Cleaner", it doesn't harm aluminum (or zinc based carb metal) like the regular Simple Green. It's purple in color so it's easy to spot on the shelf at the store.

I have an array of glass or Pyrex containers for the parts to be cleaned, use the smallest one that the part can be immersed in. Ziploc bags work well too but they do need replacing after a couple of cycles if used in heated water. I usually run my machine at about 120*. Most US cleaner instructions will specify a minimum fluid level to run the machine, usually near full. The cleaning fluid in a glass jar should be at similar surface height. I strain the solution after each use to filter out the dirt residue after a few runs, not only does it clean better but it really extends the life of the solution. A though rinse of the part when it comes out is a good policy, for carbs blowing out all the passages is necessary as the final step.

The biggest mistake that I see people make is not pre-cleaning the part, think of the Ultrasonic cleaner as the final step in the process. It's not a regular parts cleaner like you would throw a greasy part into. That would be like waxing your car without washing it first.
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I got this ultrasonic cleaner and solution from amazon in February this year and it works really well. Someone told me to stick to old-school knobs for control, as opposed to digital readouts/buttons. The automotive specific cleaner is great, but expensive. I'm reserving it for more delicate parts like carburetors, sensors etc. I'm going to try that aluminum safe simple green for general parts cleaning. Agree the ultrasonic is a final step- I clean parts first with a Solvent tank to get the big stuff, then ultrasonic, clean water soak (bucket), blow dry with compressed air. Good luck!
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I got mine at Amazon as well. I read horror stories on quality. I'm waiting for it to burn out & die. But for now it's fine. One gripe is the heater doesn't work unless the ulrasonic is running. I like to get it up to temp first. I recall: 65ºC was the temp number & it takes a long time like an hour a part. I put some chopstick rails for the part to sit on. I didn't want my carb body sitting on the basket while buzzing. Maybe overkill? There are some good YouTube vids on the subject.

You do have to be careful with the cleaner. I tried an aircraft U/S cleaner sample for high nickel turbine blades on some test parts. Yes! Too aggresive. That Amazon stuff didn't dissolve my carbs. I strongly urge checking your parts after a couple of minutes, then after 5 min & 10min etc. Wipe with a paper towel. That too aggressive product, I checked after 10 minutes by rubbing with a paper towel, and I could see it was dissolving. Good thing it was a scrap demo part.

While you're in there...check the throttle shaft seals. Most recently, I did my 100K mile car carbs and noticed a significant ridge worn in the throttle shaft seals. I noticed it never returned to the same idle. I believe I found out why.