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Unobtainium Supplies: K-Jetronic (CIS) Plastic Fuel Line/Hose Restoration Kit

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Verell, Feb 20, 2008.

  1. DMaury

    DMaury Formula 3

    Mar 27, 2007
    1,924
    Ponchatoula, LA
    Do you meant the yellow metal lines that have the section of Cohline tubing in the middle? Yes, I cut mine down, had the metal all replated, and then reassembled them using Verell's tool/kit. Of course, my finger STILL doesn't have feeling at the end....


    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197340
     
  2. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
    Project Master Owner

    Nov 1, 2006
    2,867
    Portugal
    WOW! Sorry to hear about that, hope your finger gets better.
    Thanks for the pictures and guidelines. I was wondering if the plating would leave any residues ....
    And your work looks GREAT !
     
  3. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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    Verell Boaen
    RGigante,DMaury:
    THANKS to both of you for the sample lines, couldn't have developed the kits without them.

    OOPS!!!
    What color are the fittings for the SS lines? I'm currently sourcing bright zinc, which is silver so it matches the SS braid. If they're golden zinc, then I'll need to send them out for the gold finish & adjust the prices accordingly.

    RE: RESIDUE
    Rui, you'll need to check with your plating vendor. I suspect that their final cleaning will remove all residue inside & out, but best to ask. I'd certainly blow out the assembled lines to make sure a small flake of plastic didn't come off when the barb was pressed in. Also, the small diameter injector lines are more likely to have polishing debris left inside from the refinishing process.
     
  4. DMaury

    DMaury Formula 3

    Mar 27, 2007
    1,924
    Ponchatoula, LA
    Nope you have it right! The SS fittings are a bright silver finish. It’s jus the lines to the injectors that have the yellow zinc/cad finish.
     
  5. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
    Project Master Owner

    Nov 1, 2006
    2,867
    Portugal
    That is correct !
     
  6. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
    Project Master Owner

    Nov 1, 2006
    2,867
    Portugal
    You're welcome. It's a pleasure to help those who help !
     
  7. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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    Again, thanks to both of you. WHEW, for once I got something right the 1st time!!! ;^)
     
  8. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
    6,969
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    Verell Boaen
    GOOD NEWS:
    I have had the SS Cohline on order since early Feb. I have confirmation that it's in a container enroute from Germany by sea, I should receive my order late in the week after next & will begin shipments the last week of this month.

    NOT SO GOOD NEWS:
    I just received a letter from Cohline GmbH:

    I received the price increase letter with the invoice for a small shipment I received today. The invoice had the increase as a separate line item! Needless to say, this was quite a surprise, as I had no clue that this was coming!

    My cost is established when Cohline ships the order to me, not when I place the order. As a result, this increase applies to the material I'm about to receive.

    BOTTOM LINE: PRICES ARE GOING UP.
    I'm very very sorry, but I cannot absorb a 35% price increase + the surcharge + pay shipping costs and continue to honor the prices in post #123 of this thread.

    I've requested the latest price list from Cohline, and will recalculate my costs & post revised prices as soon as possible, hopefully by this coming weekend. I'm going to minimize the effect of the per order surcharge & shipping costs by placing fewer, but larger orders. I've been placing monthly orders to keep material in the pipeline, however, I'm planning to go to quarterly orders. This will mean that on the average I'll have more material on hand, but as I get towards the end of a quarter it may mean that I'll be more likely to sell out, & when I sell out, it will take 8 to 9 weeks to re-stock.
     
  9. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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    #134 Verell, Mar 15, 2009
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2009
    The prices in post #123 are still good!!! They already include the 35% price increase!!!

    I just received the shipment of SS lines, sleeves, & fittings. When I went to recalculate the kit prices I discovered that the prices I'd used already had the 35% increase! The most recent quotes I'd received from Cohline already had the price increase in them. When I went back & looked at the price increase letter, I discoverd it was effective MARCH 10, 2008, so the prices I've been working with for the last 6 months already had the increase... Don't ask me why they just got around to sending me the formal increase notice a year after it was effective.

    Anyway, I'll be sending out PayPal invoices for open orders, and shipping the prepaid orders this week.
     
  10. jacques

    jacques Formula Junior

    May 23, 2006
    813
    Los Angeles/Florida
    Verell, would it be possible and would you have an interest in making injector line kits for the V12's?.. and if so would you be interested in selling them completely assembled as some of us dont't have the equipment (mental and mechanichal tools) to do a safe and proper job of it and to feel comfortable..thank you so very much..Jacques.
     
  11. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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  12. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 3, 2003
    1,305
    Ohio
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    Dave Meredith
    Verell - Any chances of your posting some pictures of all of the various misc. fittings named above?

    This would really help those of us who are trying to sort out exactly what new parts we might be needing!

    Thanks and Cheers - DM
     
  13. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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    Dave, I'll post pix as soon as I get a chance to take them.

    I've had a couple of questions about inserting fittings into the SS braided lines & getting the sleeves crimped.

    Here's what I've come up with:

    INSERTING SLEEVES & BARBED FITTINGS ONTO SS BRAIDED LINES:
    When I received the sleeves, they already had one end flared slightly outward, and the other end rounded inward. This flaring & rounding are the only signs of bending that I could see on the sample lines I dissected. When I took a good look at the OEM line I dissected I couldn't see any othe signs of crimping. Also, the barbs are made to fit & seal inside M8 OD x M6 ID line which is what's inside the braid. I believe the barb expands the line enough so that the braid is firmly secured between the expanded line & the sleeve. BOTTOM LINE: I don't believe that crimping the sleeve is required! In fact, I think that crimping is more likely to cause trouble by over-compressing the line down onto the barb.

    If any of the professionals know otherwise, please speak up as I'm new to this.

    I did a trial insertion of a barbed fitting into SS line. Here's what I tried & it seemed to work well:

    BTW, I don't start off by cutting a piece off of the line. Instead, I insert the 1st barbed fitting into the line's end. Only when I'm confident that I've got a good insertion do I cut the line. That way, if I mess up the first end, I can just cut off the damaged area & don't loose much line.

    1. Use SS bladed scissors or the aviation shears if they're good & sharp to trim the braid back about 1/4" to 3/8" to the intended line end. This cut back is done because most likely the plastic inner line will have been crushed when the line was cut, & you don't want to use the crushed section.

    2. Use a twisting motion to slip the sleeve's outward flaring end over the braided line, letting the black fuel line extend thru the sleeve's inward crimped end. A little inert lubricant will help here. I used Radio Shack's teflon lube gel, but dielectric grease should be fine as well.

    You might want to mark the braid so you can tell when it's fully inserted inside the sleeve.

    3. Use a very sharp blade to cut the end of the black plastic inner line off flush with the tube's end and square across.

    4. Clamp the braided line just below the sleeve with a tubing flaring clamp, then set the clamp on top of vice jaws that are open just enough to clear the line.

    5. Use a hard plastic faced hammer to tap the fitting into the line. The sleeve will help prevent the line from bending the same way the insertion tool supports it.

    Banjo fittings can be either tapped into the line, or else a wooden dowel passed thru them & the dowel used to press the fitting's barb into the line.

    6. Use a pair of avation shears, or the Craftsman tool I suggested earlier, to cut the line about 3/8" past the intended end.

    Now repeat the procedure to insert the 2nd sleeve & fitting onto the line.

    Blow the line out with compressed air to make sure it's clean, then put it in a plastic bag to keep it clean until it's ready for use.
     
  14. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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    #139 Verell, Apr 18, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    At last, Here's a picture of the 24mm long SS Line sleeve,
    The other fittings will follow this post.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  15. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #140 Verell, Apr 18, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  16. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #141 Verell, Apr 18, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  17. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #142 Verell, Apr 18, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  18. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    Nov 1, 2006
    2,867
    Portugal
    #143 RGigante, Apr 20, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  19. ramosel

    ramosel Formula 3

    Sep 11, 2004
    1,236
    Meadow Vista, CA
    Full Name:
    R Moseley
    Verell,
    Thanks so much for your hose kit and advice. I've just started on my fuel lines and hit a home-run first time out. I made the simple wood block like you suggested for the 8mm lines and it worked perfect.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/moseley_ferrari/sets/72157622414223889/

    I talked to Mr. Fletcher this morning so I'll be sending my fuel dist pieces off to him next week and doing the rest of the fuel lines while he's working on my parts.


    Rick
     
  20. bill brooks

    bill brooks F1 Rookie
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    Jul 30, 2007
    2,630
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    bill brooks
    verell,
    you have a pm.
     
  21. FF8929

    FF8929 Formula Junior

    Apr 12, 2008
    799
    Livonia, Michigan
    Full Name:
    Fred Flynn
    I used a heat gun to soften the old lines for removal. Worked great!
     
  22. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
    6,969
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    Verell Boaen
    Best removal method:
    See procedure in post #105 this thread.

    Best barb insertion method:
    See barb insertion tool in post #104 this thread.
     
  23. Opticalfuel

    Opticalfuel Rookie

    Jul 14, 2012
    1
    Roseville, CA
    Full Name:
    Nathan Pizzo
    #148 Opticalfuel, Jul 15, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi - I have a 74 911 RS (Porsche) -- it's been my passion from build to what it is now... it gave me a scare this weekend when I somehow bumped a hard black plastic fuel line enough to create a slight pinhole leak in the line.

    It all worked out fine, but I had no choice but to travel 150 miles on a very sketchy remedy to the failure.

    I only had a vice and several pair of pliers, xacto knife, and some very helpful fireman who graciously provided assistance.

    Long story short - I got the thing home - without smoke and fire, but it was no easy task. by the time I was on my way... I had made most of the classic blunders you can with re-inserting the ends on these lines.

    Somehow I was able to rig it so it did not leak at all... and it made it home running almost perfect. In fact I would say it's working 100%.

    The problem is I ran out of length enough to reach between the fuel distributor and the normal location of the Warm Up Regulator (WUR). It became apparent that if I wanted to be able to get home... I would have to unbolt the WUR and let it float nearer to the center of the engine secured by a jumbo sized zip-tie... which fortunately was in great supply.

    So here is where I stand now... the car - secure in it's home (garage) safe and sound for now. I need a solution to the shortened fuel line (smaller diameter that extends from the center of the fuel distributor to the WUR) and at least one of the fuel lines that is to the immediate right of the aforementioned line. - I probably need at a minimum:

    1. Enough smaller diameter black hard plastic line to re-build the WUR line (about 1 meter should do it)
    2. both fittings for the line above (swivel end and the one closest to the Fuel Distributor)

    3. A new fitting for the fuel distributor end of the injector line.

    I will send you paypal $$ to you if you can set me up. I may decide to re-do the entire set.

    Here is what it looks like now: It's horrifying - I KNOW! - but it was necessary to get it home.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  24. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
    6,969
    Groton, MA
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    Verell Boaen
    Nathan,
    I should have everything you need in stock. Please send eMAIL to:
    Orders@UnobtainiumSupply.com. I'll respond with a PayPal invoice for easy payment.
     
  25. blkprlz

    blkprlz Formula 3

    Mar 24, 2007
    2,158
    Tampa bay
    Full Name:
    Bruce
    Verell,

    I acquired a 2nd set of FI lines for my V12 & while cleaning them up I noticed a white ink stamping (that rubbed off when I cleaned it with mineral spirits :eek:)

    CASTELLO PA 11 Rilsan

    Then found this:

    http://www.castelloitalia.it/uk/materie-prime.asp

    This has got to be it, thought this was the best place to document it.

    Bruce
     

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