News
  1. F1ScuderiaTifosi

    Mar 16, 2015
    72
    Hill Country TEXAS
    Full Name:
    JB
    #1 F1ScuderiaTifosi, May 21, 2019
    Last edited: May 21, 2019
    I decided to replace my OEM brake discs with cross-drilled 'Uprated Brake Discs' which I ordered from SuperFormance in the UK. The OEM discs looked a bit ragged but I didn't feel like having them resurfaced at this time. Besides, the prior owner of my GTB left a set of new Brembo brake pads in the boot so I figured I better match them up with some new discs.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    I'm sure all of you know how to remove wheels and tires so I won't get into that. Although I must say, these wheel hangar tools make the removal and reinstallation process so much easier. I got them from Dave at StickyRX.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login


    ******* THIS SECTION RELATES TO THE FRONT SIDE OF THE VEHICLE *******

    After I got the wheels and tires off I placed a stack of wood in preparation to support the weight of the brake caliper after dismounting it. There are two 6mm rubber covered wheel-centering fixing screws (hex head) and lock washers securing the discs to the hub.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    There is a retaining clip securing the metal brake line on the bracket and grommet securing another line on that same bracket. I used a flathead screwdriver to leverage the retaining clip off and simply pushed off the grommeted line from the bracket. There is a channel on the hard brake line union which the retaining clip slides in and out of. These captured lines needed to be dismounted before dismounting the brake caliper so these didn't hinder the caliper's movement away from the brake disc after the caliper bolts were removed.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    There are two 19mm bolts (plus star & flat washers) securing the caliper. There are also shims mounted between the caliper and the steering knuckle. I made sure to note how many washers belonged where. Mine had 4 shims per bolt position. The bolts were easy to get to with standard depth sockets.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    After removing the caliper bolts, I simply slid the caliper off while guiding the hard brake line union through its bracket as I rested the caliper on the wood stack. I ensured I wasn't adding stress to the metal brake line. A kink in the brake line would obviously be bad news.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Heres a photo of all of the hardware I needed to remove besides the brake disc of course.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    After I swapped the brake discs I simply reversed the dismounting process. The most difficult task was getting the stack of shims to stay in position while sliding the caliper back on. I started with the lower bolt...

    What I ended up doing was slipping the caliper on but stopped shy from aligning the caliper and steering knuckle mounting holes. Then I set the lower bolt in far enough through the caliper mounting hole to provide a ledge (on it's tip) for the stack of shims to hang onto but still have just enough clearance for the mounting faces to slide against each other for alignment. Luckily the threads on the bolts help the shims hang on a bit.

    Once I got the shims in position, I slowly eased the caliper in further until the lower mounting hole of the caliper and steering knuckle were lined up. Then I finger tightened the bolt a few turns so it could bear the weight of the caliper and to retain the shims. I used the same technique for the upper bolt and shims.

    I obviously replaced the brake pads but I'm sure everyone already knows how to perform that task so I didn't bother taking photos of those procedures.

    And here she is!

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Continued...

    ******* THIS SECTION RELATES TO THE REAR SIDE OF THE VEHICLE *******
     
  2. F1ScuderiaTifosi

    Mar 16, 2015
    72
    Hill Country TEXAS
    Full Name:
    JB
    For the most part, I utilized the same dismount process as I used for the front calipers with the exception of a few things. There isn't a retaining clip securing a brake line union in the rear section but there is a bracket securing a wire. That bracket is fastened down by the upper caliper bolt. Once I removed the upper bolt I just slightly moved that bracket and wire aside. The upper bolt only had a star washer and the bracket served as a sort of flat washer. The lower bolt had a star washer and a flat washer. I used a 19mm deep socket to undo these bolts.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    I also unfastened the brake line from the plastic line-clip. I again used the stack of wood to rest the caliper on.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Since I already had the rear disc off, I elected to replace the parking brake shoes. I took photos of these procedures because it's a bit more trickier than replacing brake pads, especially for those who haven't had prior experience replacing any type of parking brake shoes (I took photos during the re-assembly process hence the 'newer' looking brake shoes).

    I placed a flathead screwdriver between the adjuster body and the spring then rotated the spur gear until the piston was fully retracted.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    I used an angled pick to pull the spring-end out of the brake shoe.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    I removed the two 10mm bolts (plus springs and washers) securing the two brake shoes.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    To maneuver the brake shoes off of the vehicle I just clam-shelled the lower half and lifted the assembly upwards.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    I swapped the old brake shoes for the new ones and ensured the notches were matching like so...

    For me, it's easier to have the adjuster and spring already pre-mounted before repositioning it back onto the vehicle.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    I began the reassembly process by simply reversing the disassembly process. But before remounting the brake shoe bolts, I made sure the hand brake mechanism was seated properly in the brake shoes notches.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

    After the brake shoes and related hardware were secured I placed the new disc onto the hub securing it with the two 6mm rubber covered wheel-centering fixing screws.

    I then remounted the calipers onto the hub holder utilizing the same technique for the shims I outlined during the reassembly of the front calipers.
    I did note that the area around the lower bolt is a bit tight.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    After I got all of it buttoned up I got ready to adjust the parking brake shoes. I completed the disc and brake shoes job on both sides before beginning the parking brake shoes adjustment process.

    Continued...

    ******* THIS SECTION RELATES TO THE BRAKE SHOES ADJUSTMENT *******
     
  3. F1ScuderiaTifosi

    Mar 16, 2015
    72
    Hill Country TEXAS
    Full Name:
    JB
    To access the spur gear on the adjuster, I needed to align one of the two access holes on the brake disc with the spur gear. It doesn't matter which side of the vehicle you start with but the adjustment direction (tighten or loosen) of the spur gear are opposite depending on which side of the vehicle you are working on.

    IF my memory serves me correctly, with a flathead screwdriver...

    Driver's side (Left Hand Drive Vehicle):

    TIGHTEN: Rotate the spur gear downwards
    LOOSEN: Rotate the spur gear upwards

    Passenger's side:

    TIGHTEN: Rotate the spur gear upwards
    LOOSEN: Rotate the spur gear downwards

    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Whoever installed the old brake pads didn't apply the anti-squeal material to the backside of the brake pads.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    I still need to give my girl a wash but here's how she looks with the new rotors.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    Qavion likes this.
  4. 97 Spider

    97 Spider Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed Rossa Subscribed

    Dec 15, 2012
    2,131
    Montana
    Full Name:
    Brian
    I did the Superformance drilled rotors on my 348 too. They are a pretty decent price and look nice too.
     
    F1ScuderiaTifosi likes this.
  5. F1ScuderiaTifosi

    Mar 16, 2015
    72
    Hill Country TEXAS
    Full Name:
    JB
    I almost forgot to add the rest of the adjustment procedures for the brake shoes... :D

    On the initial go I very firmly tightened up the adjuster (via the spur gear) to make sure the brake shoes were centered within the brake-disc race. I then backed off the brake shoes until it felt like the shoes were barely scraping the race while rotating the disc. After I reached that point, I backed off the brake shoes a bit more by loosening the spur gear one more go.

    I then pulled the hand brake to make sure the WHOLE hand brake system (cables, brake shoes, etc,.) settled back into place after all of the work.

    Just to ensure all was well, I performed the same brake shoes adjustment one more time.

    If the hand brake sounded off more than 4 clicks I would've had to adjust the cable system. Luckily it sounded off at 3 clicks.
     
  6. F1ScuderiaTifosi

    Mar 16, 2015
    72
    Hill Country TEXAS
    Full Name:
    JB
    I bought these months ago but I finally had time to do her complete brake job. :)
     
  7. MAD828

    MAD828 Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 8, 2011
    1,361
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Elliott Caras
    Nice write up, the only issue with these pattern type replacements is they are uncoated and the areas not under brake pad friction rust in a very short while so the aesthetics are somewhat ruined.

    When I use the rotor blanks I mask them up carefully and use a high temp flat grey to mimic the factory coating and they look great for years.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    F1ScuderiaTifosi likes this.
  8. F1ScuderiaTifosi

    Mar 16, 2015
    72
    Hill Country TEXAS
    Full Name:
    JB
    I still have the OEM discs. I don't know if they're still within resurfacing spec tolerences. I guess I'll find out when I eventually try and get them turned.
     
  9. GTO Joe

    GTO Joe Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 15, 2013
    713
    Charlotte, NC
    Full Name:
    Joseph Troutwine
    I used to do this as well but I found a solution that is easier. Wurth makes a product that you actually spray onto the rotor surface and it dries to the same gray color and provides the same look without the need to mask. It is designed to help with brake squeal and the side benefit is gray rotor hats. I started using it about three years ago and so far it is still looking good. Image Unavailable, Please Login It is called SBS Brake Treatment but I did find it somewhat hard to find from my normal Wurth vendors so you may need to serarch for it.
     
  10. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula Junior

    Oct 25, 2011
    986
    UK
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    Before mounting the caliper clean the spacers up really well and then put a dab of superglue on them and with the bolt in the caliper glue them to the caliper so they "become part of the caliper". Much easier to put back and as long as you don't go over the top with the glue easy to prize them off again.

    Saves a lot of faffing about/risk of dropping spacers and not noticing etc

    ...should of said dont get glue near the bolt - it's just in place for guidance!!! ;-')
     
    F1ScuderiaTifosi likes this.
  11. F1ScuderiaTifosi

    Mar 16, 2015
    72
    Hill Country TEXAS
    Full Name:
    JB
    I'll see if I can find it locally, if not, I'll search for it on the net. Thanks for the heads up! Much appreciated!
     
  12. F1ScuderiaTifosi

    Mar 16, 2015
    72
    Hill Country TEXAS
    Full Name:
    JB
    I actually thought about doing that. Maybe I'll do that during my next pad change. Or... I'll probably just measure the stack with a micrometer and look for a single shim of that thickness.
     
  13. F1ScuderiaTifosi

    Mar 16, 2015
    72
    Hill Country TEXAS
    Full Name:
    JB
    Did you perform a bedding/break-in procedure on your set after the installation? I have cross drilled StopTech's on my Lexus and they came with bedding/break-in instructions but these didn't.
     

Share This Page