Urgent - Please help

Sounds like an electrical intermittent connection, which could be a number of things.
If your car is under warranty, then let the dealer handle it.


I had a similar situation, but on a much older car: an '88 Celica GT-Four when it was almost 10 years old.
All electrical power would stop momentarily then come back.
That one turned out to be the battery: A battery mounted about 11 inches from the glowing turbo.
Finally, while going around a corner, all the plates inside the battery fell over, and the intermittent became a hard short.

But on a new car, there could be a connection loose, a wire not crimped properly, or a loose nut on a grounding stud.

Many dealers don't have a lot of electrical specialists. Your dealer might be putting you off because his "wiring" guy is on vacation.
... Or because he doesn't like doing warranty work.

(I had a cooling problem on that Celica that stumped the dealer for over a month. He was going to send the car to an auto electrical specialist. Turned out the problem was a missing hose -- not the computer.)

 

Do not disconnect the battery. This will erase all of the fault codes that the dealership uses to diagnose the problem. If there are no fault codes, then the dealership will just give you the car back with a " no problem found" diagnosis and you will have wasted your time and the dealers time.
It sounds like a charging system/battery issue, and there will be fault codes pointing the tech in that direction if you do not erase them.

Whoever came up with the idea of disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to solve problems is an idiot! It would be like having your house robbed and your security system caught it all on video, and then you erased the video before the police had a chance to look at it.

 

Brian - your point is well taken but in many cases, I reset does clear some issues. I do agree those that are "hard" issues vs "soft" will just return...

 

Yes, but there is a proper time when to use a "Hard reset", and that is after all of the fault codes and the data regarding the codes have been downloaded and saved. Otherwise you will erase data that is crucial when it comes to diagnosing a problem with the car.
The modern cars have upwards of 20 different systems/ECUs. The all store faults and communicate with one and other over multiple CAN lines. A simple problem like an intermittent brake light switch will cause a myriad of faults to be stored, many systems failure warnings will be displayed on the dash and multiple systems will stop working. Without being able to see the fault codes that were stored, it would be virtually impossible to diagnose this simple problem.

Let me tell you, the designers of the systems and the people who translated the information from Italian to English do not make the diagnosis very easy. Once you have seen which faults are stored, you get better at diagnosing the root cause of the issue, but it is not a straight forward thing, and there are no manuals or fault trees to help you.

 

Some settings are stored in a non-volatile memory, so they are not lost when the battery is disconnected. You should have to reset the time/date and re-initialize the door locks by locking and unlocking the car with the remote, and may have to recalibrate the TPMS system. Unfortunately, now you have lost any information that the dealership could have used to diagnose your fault. I would drive the car, and hopefully the fault returns before your service.

 

Now, do not disconnect the battery before you take the car to the dealer. They should be able to diagnose the cause of the problem by looking at the fault codes with the factory diagnostic computer (DEIS).

Regards,
Brian

 

At least now you know it was just a grounding issue.

I gots to get me one of those cameras. They are now cheap enough.