V-12 Engine into 308 Build, over on Grassroots

Ah, OK - here's what I see, with the dismiss X just visible:
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If you go to your browser tab settings and zoom out a bit (example here is 80%), then it shrinks the pop-up window and the X should become visible for you:

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Hope that helps,
Gordon

 

Or, I could just assume the marketing guy who approved this is an ...hole and pick a different ecu

 

I honestly think it's platform differences. Like here... There's goofy non functioning things in mobile that don't show up in PC. Tablet is another odd one. Best guess, the guy who did the new layout for their site, forgets that is old farts still use a PC...

 

Yup, and is likely junior enough that he can design a good looking website but doesn't consider proper page to page design - that optional "sign up for our mail list" pop up screen should have been able to be dismissed with the Esc key as well. Maybe that's the mobile use assumption again, they don't have an Esc key to consider!

(I'm a mechanical engineer by degree, worked in petroleum engineering for 10 years, then spent 30 years in IT, finishing as an enterprise architect for infrastructure. After 30 years in IT the troubleshooting, design, planning gets ingrained. I was a beta tester for Windows 3.0 in 1989 - then a couple of years ago I was in a meeting with Microsoft going over our corporate Windows 10 deployment plans, and I realized that I was deploying Windows 3 into corporations before any of the MS guys in the meeting were even born! Things that make you feel old... )

Cheers,
Gordon

 

Now for something normally pretty boring, but perhaps more interesting than web page formatting....I found a piece of gray-black wire to extend the grey-black oil sensor lead to the ecu Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Many are not going to get the win you just had...
Congrats!

For whatever reason getting automotive wire in all those pretty colors is a real pita, sure if I want to buy in massive bulk! I don't.. so I have to buy open looms for crazy money...
I hate wiring... Hate it!

 

I buy one of these every so often: https://ecumasterusa.com/collections/wiring-connectors/products/ecumaster-emu-flying-lead-harness?variant=8318138155069 It's a pretty decent supply of wire and colors.

 

I use tefzel from this place. Tefzel is very tough and doesn't melt easily like pvc
https://prowireusa.com/c-15-wire-cable-.aspx
They sell 10/25/....ft lengths, many color combination, ship very fast. I think I bought every 18g color option they had when I was wire the coils and injectors. I run shielded to the sensors...just to avoid wondering about things later.

I know I've seen places that stock the PVC stuff in many options but can't remember where

 

Looked at the fuel gauge...another bad sending unit. best I can tell its the exact same gauge as the oil pressure with a different printed face...same 8V signal line, 0-300ohm sender......I'm a little temped to install a common sending unit in the tank and let the ECU run the gauge.

 

Yeah, happened to me, too. If you half minimize the page, it exposes the top right cancel X

 

Fuel gauge is fixed. Opened the sending unit and the wipers are copper and had a bit if oxide, and both ground through just a dot of a contact point to the metal cover...a little 600 grit to polish everything up and it's good as new. Took under 20 minutes including drilling the rivers and finding screws with nylock nuts to replace them. Thought I snapped pic but it turns out no, sorry

 

Check the tank sending unit grounds... I don't know if you can wiggle the unit out of the tank with the tank still in... I've always taken the tank out first.

 

Haha... Load time on my screen... Didn't catch your post...
Great.. All good!

 

Tonight was the big night, I connected the CAN expander, fired it up....yeah, nothing. Email out begging for help. There is a reason I put this off for 5 years......

 

decided I did not like the way I had reassembled the fuel sensor so I pilled it back out. The rivet had 2 diameters, one to hole the plastic cover and 1 to secure the metal plate tight. What I had done was just put a washer on the bolt which meant I was clamping the plastic as tight as the metal and that seemed a failure waiting to happen. Tonight I drilled the original rivets and put them back in place with the bolt going through.....I'll sleep better tonight Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login .

 

I really like Link's ECU and software. I ran an AEM Infinity 506 on my twin plug ITB 911 engine with 60-2 trigger wheel and had all manner of sync/signal issues. Well grounded individual shielded wires for Hall cam and crank signals and was very careful with the wiring in general but still had nothing but problems. The engine would run fine, but any time it got into the power band I got all manner of light detonation, regarding of how retarded I would time the ignition settings. It just didn't seem to care and fired the ignition coils seemingly at random. I think AEM just did not like the 12 COPs I was running. Anyway, I changed to Link G4+ Fury and no issues. I was told AEM's internal signal noise control is just no good, or at least not good when one is running a zillion coils and a high resolution 60-2 wheel.

 

Odd. Just changed the ECU, no wiring chances, no coil ignitor changes or anything like that?

For sure the coil outputs and crank signals are separate items and if there was a trigger issue the coils and fuel don't fire until the ECU is again certain of crank position....that's hard wired in from enginelab so AEM can't change it. I've not played with or honestly really even looked at how AEM set anything up user interface of control scheme wise so no idea. I'm also running hall crank/cam sensors and 12 coils (waste spark in pairs as there are only 10 coil outputs) and don't see any real noise on the crank, cam, coils lines or anything off in the ECU (there are bunch of internal diagnostic channels AEM may not show you)...but I'll keep an eye out when I start loading it up.

 

Just pulled up some data....this is what is going on in the ECU when my engine is running.....a clean report on crank and cam position. When I was tying to using VR sensors I had trouble but traced the root cause to a mis-match between the sensors and how I'd made the crank trigger wheel and a switch to hall sensors cleaned it right up to what you see here, no errors of any kind....but again I don't know if AEM lets you see any off this, its displayed on the "channel list" which I know AEM blocks access to so unless they choose to display it elsewhere...I don't know.

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Way back I damaged a couple clips inside the main ECU connector so today was replace the connector day father than start adding more wires to the broken one, still there were about 50 to move Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Probably a good chunk of the the rest of the day will be new wires. The expander needs its 12 MAP signal lines for starters and I'm not even sure what all the wires in the cabin are all about , clearly I was plotting something 5 years ago.

I am a little proud of myself for planning the CAN expander.....there was a bundle with all the power, ground signal all run and labeled.

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All the wire I used everywhere is aircraft grade and all the analog signal lines are shielded, which slows things down a bit. Its a bit harder to strip because its fine strand and each strand is cad plated so you need to be really careful not to nick them....I use a thermal stripper

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Then on the shield stuff the shielding is braided so it needs to be unbraided and either twisted and run to ground (I ground the ecu end, never ground both ends) or they make these cool connectors that heatshink and then solder themselves when you get them hot enough, which only works with tefzel aircraft wire, pvc auto wire would catch fire. The solder area changes from red to clear when the solder melts so you know its done and the heatshink seals so moisture can't get in....pretty cool but it take time to do.

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Some run AEM just fine, no issues, but those of us who have gremlins like this it seems the only solution is to just rip the thing out. That said, I really prefer AEM software and tuning functionality. Motec just isn’t that friendly.

 

Ewww!

 

That is one of the problems with aftermarket....there really is no such thing as generic electronics. The OEMs know exactly what sensors, injectors, coils, etc. will be used and design accordingly but the aftermarket guys have to kind of guess and cover as much as they can which sometimes means either picking a different ECU that better matches what you have or changing what you have to better match the ECU. Even with motec there are many things they tell you "do it this way" which means replacing or rewiring stuff.....there just is no such thing as universal bolt-on electronics.

One of my big one was the throttle.....most ECUs the DBW is 5A because those the the chips the OEMs use.....for 1 TB. Many ECUs have 2 but most they can't be linked to a single throttle. The new motes do let you link the 2 DBW channels to get 10A Yeah....it turns out that is way not enough to drive 12, I need 15A so I had to add and setup a higher power external driver. Not a huge big deal but my point is no ECU made would run my throttle setup, so that's how it goes. Now, because I can setup the outputs to do whatever, I was able to use a $30 off the shelf driver good for 25A, cheap simple which is why I'm willing to deal with needing to set everything up myself, there are times that is the only option and at those times having the option is really nice.

 

Finished wiring in the MAP wires yesterday but couldn't get the damn thing working....played with every setting....moved it to CAN B......went inside and had drink. This morning I remembered that early on I'd mistakenly type the CAN addresses in HEX and the letter part was accepted...hmmm...I wonder....yeah, changed the addresses from decimal to HEX and I have 12 MAP readings. The way the board works the 12 readings are not truly independent even thought there are 12 sensors, but its easy to see the 0-10% error mistuned TBs would make and larger errors also show just not in a simple linear way, and because this is a board thing the old way I was getting the signals would have the same issue.

A couple little things to fix in the model and display but its mostly working now....at least with a brake bleed pump hook up to pull vacuum, still need to see what it does on a running engine.

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On that whole 2 steps forward 1 step back path getting the cylinder reading working made me realize the multiMAP itself was really working right. When I saw the output didn't match the lowest cylinder I quickly told myself and all of you that's normal....no its not.

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The blue is MAP1 voltage, which I confirmed with a meter, its right. The purple is the multiMAP output, it doesn't track right and never goes below 1.3V, but by 1.4V its not longer tracking right at all, so while it could read to about 37kPa, 40 kPa it had really lost any hope of calibration.

hmmmmmm........Pulled the wire out of the ECU connector and check with a meter...same answer

hmmmm......where's the circuit drawing, this is normally where I get myself into trouble because, yeah, I suck at electronics, but not today. The analog inputs on the ECU all have a 100k 5V pullup so when they are not connected to anything they read 5V which while often very helpful its buggering my NBO2 sensor reading and I thought maybe this too......but no. What's buggering this is the isolation amp, its apparently not setup right and doesn't have the correct range.. But, this thing is a pretty dead simple analog circuit, I just moved the output wire to bypass the amp and its pretty much fixed. Now I'm pretty sure the 5V pullup is causing voltage reading not to drop quite as low as it should, but that I can and did calibrate and now the MAP is about 1.5kPa above the cylinder reading at atmosphere, and about 1kPa high at the most vacuum I could pull....plenty close enough (red and orange lines)

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Trying to work through some of these wires.

I connecter the rear axle speed....it reads the speedo sensor and that end was wired, now it goes to the ecu.

Looking up front I see a couple long 3 conductor wires...must be wheel speed, easy. there are 3 2 conductor....I'll make one CAN to make future work easy, you know, now that I'm a CAN system master

my wiring pinout shows white/yellow as the "slow down" light

I show a clutch and brake pedal, I probably thought they would be good for traction and/or launch control....a couple of the orange wires I guess.

Then another 3 wire labeled steering so it looks like I was planning to add a steering angle/position sensor for logging I guess I was thinking. anyone have a good (aka low cost) solution for steering position?

This stuff takes forever....

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