Why can’t I send you a PM? Is it an error from my end?
I just looked and I don't see a mail box....probably some think you only have as a paying member Email: [email protected] [email protected]
Hmmm....I don't see this post which makes me wonder what else I don't see? Clearly I've been intruding here, I do apologize. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I deleted that comment because it was redundant, but not before Crowndog quoted it. You're fine. You need to be at least Silver subscribed to use the PM function. You're not intruding on anything, this is a great thread!
Can you pls confirm tire sizes as shown in these photos? I’ve read through the posts but there seem to be a few mentioned. Cool project! Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Front - 225/40-18 mounted on 8.5x18, ET15 Rear - 285/35-18 mounted on 10x18 ET32 These tire are worn, old and hard as rocks, I have them on the old wheels, they are only good to rool it around the shop at this point. The plan is to stick with the 225/40 F abut switch the rear to a 295/30 with has an OD that matched the front so they look a bit more like a set....but I don't want to buy good tires while I'm still spilling oil and such and while I thin it will be ready to go come spring I've thought that before so I figured wait on good tires.
Today I bought a pint of ppg 36520 which is their mix for 1982-2005 ferrari 101 Argento Nurburgring. Its just a LITTLE bit darker than my wheels. The plan is to send a couple of these to the vendor so the next set (a 17" more OEM looking version) should be a closer match to factory but for my car I"m pretty happy with the color. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
here's a pretty final view of the 17x9 rear wheel design, a little more to do on the 17x8 front but hopefully these will be ready to send to the vendor to start production by the end of the week. Closer to an OEM look as was requested but they could also be done a bit lighter with a design closer to my 18s. These will be 17x8 ET 13mm 17x9 ET 16mm ET can be easily changed...the request was for them to sit out to fill the fender and these number put the outside very near what I have with my 8.5/10 combo and are about as far out as can be done. Can't wait to see them made and on a car! Image Unavailable, Please Login
R&T says its one of the best engine swaps ever and used it as the article headline pic https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/buying-maintenance/g6790/coolest-best-engine-swaps/ Image Unavailable, Please Login
Found a little time to get to the shop. 2 rods were damaged so I have to hunt up replacements but WAY back I have combined bits of a B set, C set and added a couple G weight rods when weight matched the group to be a proper set. New rods meant new weight matching. The 2 new rods were a B and a D and the B was pretty light rod body with a pretty heavy cap which was a problem for me as I also end weight matched my set and the new light Rod body meant the whole set needed to lose 2g.....yeah I know ferrari only matches there sets within 4g so it meat spec as is but my set is matched to 0.10g total weight and 1.00g end to end so WAY out of the I want it to run freakishly smooth spec. Image Unavailable, Please Login These are finished and ready to take to the machine shop whenever they reopen...I need to have the crank ground and last assembly everything measure to spec but the bearing clearances were quite loose so I have to have the bearings coated, not that I need to regrind the crank I figure I have them just match it to the rods/bearing and leave it a bit oversize if need be to get the correct clearances. Image Unavailable, Please Login So that is forward progress. followed by a steps backwards when I started cleaning up the pistons and realized the valve relief are not correct and the valves have been hitting. Going back to very old posts it looks like I never checked them, i just trusted that JE made the pistons correctly...shame on me so now I need to both recut the pistons and then check and possibly replace the valves. Image Unavailable, Please Login I also realized I need to replace all the cylinders....1st lost it was 1, then well...6.....oh who am I kidding they all look like ****. Last time I use blanks and machined myself. This time I started down that path then scrapped 2 as I remember just how old and not good my lathe is and had Darton make them. There was 1 feature they could make to my spec so I'll cut that and might drop them at the machine shop for finish hone....haven't really decided yet but that is the direction I'm leaning.
If I recall correctly, R&T had a brief article in the late 1970s about a 308 having a 330 engine dropped into it. Maybe someone else here remembers that, or am I the only dinosaur in the forum?
Doc I believe the R&T piece was from the late 80s and it was about a 308 having a 365 (specifically a 365 GTB/4/Daytona) engine dropped in.
I'm not familiar with that one. What a shame because a Daytona 'motore' belongs in a Daytona. Does anyone else recall the 330 or are you guys all under 50 years of age? I can still visualize the picture showing the single, not double, OH cam engine...smaller engine, better fit, and power better suited to the frame of a 308.
I think you refer to the the David P. Goldsmith V-12 conversion, which was object of the R&T article. D. Goldsmith even made a thorough book write-up with many sketches. A few years ago, the car came to Germany and was restored. Best from Germany Martin
I have a copy of the goldsmith book and a copy of the R&T article somewhere.....that car popped up in Germany a couple years ago Image Unavailable, Please Login It is a 365 but a 2 cam I'm pretty sure.....I remember reading the 4 cam had a clearance issue. Another was done a few year later following the book Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I THINK a total of 3 were build this way....maybe 4, all 2 cam 365s. Then there was a 400i version, goldsmith talked about the 400 not fitting but the i version will fit. Then mine is #5 I think but I ..ummm...diverged from the others a tad.
Never trust a piston manufacturer! I always do the playdoh check with a set of new head gaskets I sacrificed and reuse over and over after degreeing in the cams. Means pulling the heads a couple of times but better than mangling something. Radial clearance is usually the problem and yours too! I relieve them by hand, I dont have a mill
Yes, shame on me for not checking them, not sure what I was thinking...probably that its a pain in the butt to take apart and I just wanted to be finished The good news, if I can cal lit that, is I now now EXACTLY where the issue is so its easy to fix while OI'm fixing everything else. A buddy lent me a piston vise so recutting the pockets will be quick.....I need a rainy day since I'm currently tasked with building a patio which requires a retaining wall, which needs to match the house so footer, block, stucco, should have the wall up this weekend but stucco will need to wait until stuff re-opens I guess...unless it rains in which case I'll have the pistons cut. I still need to get the crank ground too....but again, not worth risking bringing virus into the house so it sits and the patio work fills my time....then I may regrade the yard and install a nice french style garden, you know, like Versailles, depending how long the lock down lasts .....
Sand drum on a Dremel is quite quick. Good to leave extra clearance to reduce valve shrouding and allow for piston rock