Vapor lock in fuel filter?? Hardi pump carb car. | FerrariChat

Vapor lock in fuel filter?? Hardi pump carb car.

Discussion in '308/328' started by cbmcdona, Sep 6, 2024.

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  1. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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    Caleb McDonald
    Ok trying to see if anyone else has had this happen. 1977 308 GTB. Has new strainer in the tank, new fuel filter, new Hardi pump, all new lines, with proper sizing. None of the check valves, just plumbed like the euro line routing diagram. So tank to filter, filter to pump, pump to carbs, then return to right tank. If I start the car and let it run all is good. However if I shut it off and let it sit a bit when hot, the Hardi pump races like it is not getting fuel on the suction side. So my assumption is that the fuel in the filter is boiling and the pump is preventing those vapors from getting by. Does anyone else have this? For a diaphragm pump like the Hardi, should I move the stock filter to be after the pump? It seems quite a few people use these pumps so someone must have run into this before I would think. Thanks!


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  2. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    If you have a Hardi pump absolutely block the return line. The pump has an internal regulator and letting it run without the back pressure of not having a tank return line will cause the pump to prematurely fail. Also the pump goes SILENT once the correct pressure is reached. I have a 77 GTB that runs perfect on a Hardi pump with the stock fuel filter in the OEM location.
     
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  3. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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    Thanks. This is interesting. I had tried installing mine this way initially and it left me stranded on the side of the road. As soon as the oil got to temp I had fuel starvation and it shut off until it cooled down. So yours is plumbed tank to filter, filter to pump, and then dead headed at the carbs? Do you have any of the US anti roll over plumbing at your pump or just simple like the Euro cars? I must be doing something different but I’m not sure as to what. Thanks


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  4. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    I have a US car but plumbed like a Euro car. I plugged all the vapor lines in the tank and it is a simple system of tank, strainer, fuel filter, pump, carb, blocked off return line (which I kept in place to look correct)
     
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  5. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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    Thanks! This is very interesting indeed. I tried plumbing mine like this and had fuel issues. The only difference is I had the evap connected. I wonder if I’m getting a vacuum in my tank causing the pump racing issue. Since you got rid of the evap, how did you vent your tank? A vented cap?


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  6. bitsobrits

    bitsobrits Formula Junior
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    Bad assumption. Fuel boiling anywhere with a return type fuel system is nigh on impossible. So you want to keep that feature and don't want to 'deadhead' the fuel supply to the carbs in a mid engine car with low airflow through the engine compartment.

    As you surmise, you likely have a venting issue due to an inoperative (plugged) evap system.
     
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  7. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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    The only thing is I replaced all the lines in the evap system and cleaned the three way valve. With the valve I can easily blow through it in the direction toward the tank and with a bit of compressed air it opens to blow towards the canister which I think seems right. The issue I have is when the car is off and hot. So that’s why I was thinking the fuel in the filter is boiling from the heat of the engine compartment while the pump is off. On hot start the pump races and takes quite some time to prime, but once it does it slows back down and all seems ok. It’s a very frustrating issue.


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  8. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    My tank is vented via the overflow tube on the filler neck. It is more than enough venting for the system to breathe. I do have a check valve on that tube in the event the car rolls over but under normal conditions the tank is vented just fine.
     
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  9. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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    Interesting. I didn’t think the US cars had any way to vent there. I thought only the Euro cars had an ability to vent in the neck. I’ll have to take a look at that on my car.


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  10. bitsobrits

    bitsobrits Formula Junior
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    If the fuel is vaporizing anywhere in the engine compartment with the car not running, the float bowls would be the most likely spot (top of the heat generation source). The fuel filter is very low (picks up turbulent relatively cool air when driving so begins the hot soak period at a relatively cool temp) and contains a fair amount of fuel (higher thermal mass so takes more heat x time to initiate a boil). And the passive airflow upwards through the engine compartment when the car is sitting still would tend to cool the filter, not heat it.

    Try to recreate the heat soak problem somewhere convenient, then release your filler cap and listen for air leaking in. If you have a venting issue it will then be apparent. Your evap canister itself may be the cause, especially if it's the original unit, as they can clog over time.

    I won't bore you with the long explanation why, but like Nouvalari I'm running a vent to atmosphere through a small K&N filter on the small overflow tube on the filer neck. Otherwise stock routing of all fuel lines (all evap lines and hardware removed). Works fine, even in high ambient temps.
     
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  11. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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    Thanks for the help. I’ll have to checkout the overflow option possibly. I did not realize this was on option on a US car. I guess will dig into this sometime this weekend as well as checking out the charcoal canister itself which I believe is original. My car has been a nearly three year restoration process as it was a barn find when I got it, was off the road for thirty years. So I’m always finding little things to go through now that I have all the major things done.


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  12. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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    Quick question for you both. When you added the vent using the overflow on the filler neck, did you simply put a T in the line so the the neck still connects to the tank and then add a hose to that T that drops down below the car?


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  13. bitsobrits

    bitsobrits Formula Junior
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    No tee, and no need to "add a vent to the overflow" as the overflow line is the vent.
     
  14. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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    My overflow from the filler is plumbed into the large top vent connecting the two tanks. So the only way for me to open this to atmosphere would be to put a T in the line so it still connects to that balancer pipe. Unless you are connecting to something else. But that’s the only fitting on my filler neck


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  15. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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  16. cbmcdona

    cbmcdona Karting
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    So quick update. Unfortunately after opening up that vent my problem persists. I can tell the tanks are venting freely now as I blew into the vent I created and there was no restriction and I could feel it exit back out when I stopped. So that is off the table as the source of the issue. I also blocked the return line again and the Hardi pump is much happier. It no longer races and builds 4.5 PSI pretty consistently. I was able to run the car in the garage and let it get both the coolant and oil to full temp and could rev the car freely sitting in the garage. So I don’t think it’s a heat or vapor lock issue as sitting parked in a hot garage I would think would be worst case scenario and it was fine. But I tried taking it out on the road and under load it was a no go. Since it was warmed up i got on it a bit and it pulled hard and cleanly all the way past 7k in the first three gears. I was excited about this but then it fell completely flat on it face and acted like it ran out of gas. I let it sit a minute and restarted it. It was fine a little way down the road and then acted like it ran out of gas. I got it home and let it run in the garage for another 10-15 and it ran fine there. I’m suspecting the fuel filter. However both the filter and the tank strainer are brand new. I was also considering ignition but I wouldn’t think I would get those few nice pulls past 7k if it was an ignition issue. It’s very maddening.


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