See below
My thinking was to put the thread into the most general section, so as to "inform" as many Fchat folks as possible, and to get as much "information" as possible..........
From my reading (I'm sure Brian can correct any errors), it seems you're dealing with two separate, but related systems, here. The literature tells me that the 456M uses gas shocks, dynamically controlled as part of the active suspension system. Then there's the rear auto-leveling system, which runs off the power steering pump. From the accumulated fluid, perhaps the auto-leveling system had been leaking for a while, and it might have caused the active suspension to over-correct, causing repeated overpressure conditions in the shock, until the metal fatigued and ruptured. Just a guess. (Okay, a scientist would say "hypothesis consistent with the collected data". ) It'd probably be a good idea to have both systems checked over, especially as this car is new to you. If this is the only 456M you've driven any distance, you wouldn't have any comparison to tell if it wasn't working quite right.
I am getting into the rest of the rear suspension and the associated ride-height gear. Everything looks straight forward, just expensive to replace. Anybody know of somebody that tests the accumulators for this or any Ferrari ? Are there replacement shocks, like Ohlins or Koni that bolt in, with or without the load leveling features ? Maybe something from 550 or 575 ? Other than the cost, this seems a fun way to "get aquainted " with working on the car.
Quite sharp to pick up on that ! At one time, I had the largest collection of Yamaha TZ750's in the world, even more than the Yamaha Factory. I still race them from time to time. Below is how my collection looked a few years ag. The collection once totaled twenty four (24) complete bikes. The awards in the background each represent either a nationala or world championship. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes. This is how the collection looks now. I have saved only the world championship winning bikes. Scott Image Unavailable, Please Login
This was a very helpful clue . I now have the shock on the bench, and am in the process of disassembly. As soon as I develope my digital photo's, I will give you a surprise.
Shock well disassembled, cleaned well. Bag protects the "evidence." Rings won't remove because the "exploded" tube is swolen and distorted. Image Unavailable, Please Login
A peek inside the exploded tube. You can see the shock piston. I had no idea what I was seeing at this point, but a knowledgable shock person will be getting ideas. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Found an old dash instrument light, wired in a battery, and presto, a light small enough to fit into the hole that receives the oil from the accumulator ans self-leveling system. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Put in the light and looked through the break in the shock body. Hard to see, but I think I see something that is not supposed to be there. Going to have to take the shock apart to find out what is there Yes, I know the photo doesn't show squat, but with my eye at the tube, I could see lots better than the photo shows. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The decision was to open up the shock, and have a look inside. I didn't have all the correct tools to remove the shaft directly by removing all the lock rings at the top of the shock. Also, the adjuster rings were having to come off this shock to be used on the next shock, but they could not go off the bottom, because of the explosion. Therefore, we decided to cut the tube in the threads, to preserve the "evidence." First, we made a locating mark on the tube, so we could reconstruct the "registration" of the two parts of the tube later. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rod and Piston exposed. You shock guys now know what the problem is, but I didn't until later ! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Very cool collection. Lots of history there. As for a replacement you might want to speak with Rob at Delta Vee Motorsports. He rebuilds them and is very knowledgeable. I would think the easy way to go would be 550 rear shocks but they might take a different spring. I am not familiar with the axle weights of the two cars. I would think if it is in the budget a conversion to Koni or Ohlin is not out of the picture.
Got a direct look at the odd stuff, where there should be nothing. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ok, I'm dying with anticipation: I still don't understand what I'm supposed to see. What inside the shock caused the fracture?
Here's a couple of close-up of previous photo's (Forgive the pace of this thread. I have a friend helping with this, and he's only available one day per week. I am also learning how to post photo's. Wish I had a 12 year old around to do this stuff..... I am thinking that this broken plastic ring has something to do with this. Image Unavailable, Please Login
And I am wondering if it is supposed to go on the grove between the rings on the shock piston. Rob? Image Unavailable, Please Login