Vignale spyder #504 restoration

Hi Ivan, your project is looking great. It looks like we are working on many of the same parts. I just bought similar heat insulation material two days ago, to line the tunnel and exhaust passage areas. My inside firewall insulation looks like new, so I am going to leave it alone. The heat insulation in the exhaust passage was a mess. It is the reason that I decided to spend several months cleaning the underside of my car.

Do you know where I can purchase the air intake hoses (100mm etc.)? I am also in need of a single Cheney hose clamp for the upper radiator hose, if you have any idea where I can find one. I did need three, but I found two on an old XKE engine that is sitting in my dad's shed. Thanks for posting your progress.

I bought my coil decals & paint from Parker Hall. I searched numerous 3500 GT pictures on the internet before deciding to reinstall my coils where they were mounted when I took the car apart. I found them mounted where mine are (rarely) and on the passenger firewall. I am trying to decide how I will finish my air cleaner. Do you have any pictures of what your's looks like and what they looked like from the factory? Mine is satin black with no decals or metal ID plates. Thanks again.
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For reference here are the original untouched coils and air cleaner housing as fitted to the Mitchell 3500 101.708.
Note: the air cleaner had a very fine nickel plating which as you can see is/has been flaking off over the years. I would NOT paint it as some have done.
Ciao,
FGM
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Thanks for the pictures Frank. Do you have any advice on what finishes to have the air cleaner done in, to look closest to original? Mine were painted by the previous owner. I will order the metal ID plates and sticker from Parker Hall. I agonized over the coil location. Mine do not ever appear to have been mounted on the firewall. My original radiator (which I am not installing, since the custom one is twice the size of the original) has the top hose one the other side. It is interesting how much variation there was between two cars that were made so close together. Your windshield washer reservoir is the correct one for my car...I have the mounting bracket, but no bottle. If you ever see one for sale, please let me know. Do you mind telling me again where you got the air hoses that you are replacing in the picture? Thanks.

 

Mfletch,
There are two or three options here.
The most cost effective would be http://www.newcoproducts.com/
They are in LA and have the nearly correct 100mm hose in 22" lengths you will need to buy two pieces. They have good prices for the following sizes.
100mm x 550mm 4" x 22"
34mm x 260mm 1 1/4" x 10"
80mm x 775mm 3-1/4 x 31"
Second would be RE Originals (Matt Jones) they have the exact factory replacement.
It is a little spendy but the correct stuff. I purchased both.
I have the one from Matt tucked away and will use it later, when/if the judges discover the Newco one is not the exact one. Opps I let the cat out of the bag.

The last option is Strada e Corsa (Att:Lennart) phone 31 for the Netherlands 023 542 0009 <hIp://www.stradaecorsa.com>
They also have the original 100mm paper tube at 50 Euros per meter + shipping.
Good luck.
Ciao,
FGM

 

Ivan, thanks for the kind offer. My hose is 1 3/4 inches outside diameter.
Frank, thanks for the info. I will contact Reoriginals.

Two last questions....can either of you tell me where to connect the wires on the back of the generator..one blue, one black. Also, I bought a heat shield from Larry for my starter. Can I install the mounting bracket by just removing the solenoid, or do I have to remove the entire starter? Thanks.
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Is it an image thing, or are the coil colors between what Kilimanjaro gave you and the original ones on Porteno's pictures different?

Great pics guys. Love those details, always sweat the small stuff.

 

I would suggest it is the 51 years of aging that makes the difference, not the digital camera.
Ciao,
FGM

 

I installed the starter shield on my starter a few years ago. I got them from Larry also. Mine went straight on, with the starter still on the car if I remember correctly, but I already had the bracket intact.
On my buddies 3500, we had to remove the starter (actually, it was already off the car anyway), and had to rotate the bracket for the best fitment of the shield. It was easy to remove the starter, but we may have had to remove the brake booster, and attack via the wheel well.
As for the coils, my originals seem a bit more red than maroon.
RF.

 

RF, thanks for the information on the starter shield. I will go ahead and remove the starter. It is the only accessory that I have not had off the engine....now I will be able to make it look like new under the heat shield.

 

Ivan, I bought the mounting bracket for my starter shied in an ebay auction. In the picture that I posted, you can see that it appears to be the same finish as your starter shield. It is not painted. If it looks correct, I will have an expert ID the finish. I have my Porsche at a local shop (Brian Moore Restorations). He has been doing Maserati restorations for over 30 years. I will see him next week and I can ask him what the finish is on mine. I am bringing him my air cleaner base (for nickel plating), my trident (to identify the gold finish & restore it), and my trident surround (for chrome plating).

 

No, I don't. But while you have that bad boy out, why not do a thermal ceramic coat on it first, then worry about the color last and save your starter from future grief?

Ciao,
George

 

The shield over the starter is to guard against fuel spilling onto the starter from the carbs above. When ever the starter is employed, it generates a lot of arcing, or sparks. A leaky carb directly overhead could spell disaster.
On my way to the Pismo Drive in Calif last month, I noticed a strong fuel smell, and rapid depletion of my fuel via the gas guage. Upon pulling off of the high way to investigate, my rear tires broke loose from the start at a green light. Something my little old 3500 never does. Upon opening the hood, a geyser of fuel was spewing out from the center carb! Seems the cap-nut that retains the filter screen on top of the Weber was loose, and dancing around on top of the carb. The fuel had totally covered the bottom of the car, and was drenching the right rear wheel, hence the wheel spin!
Luckily the plug/nut was still there, so I was able to just re-install it, and tighten the others. I let the car air out for half an hour before attempting the starter, despite it having the shield. It was too flat of an area to bump start.
Glad the carbs are on one side, and the exhaust on the other! RF.

 

+ 1000......it's a FIRE shield not a heat shield!!!

 

Probably when new they just sprayed it quickly with some grey paint, or maybe even left it unpainted.

Most definitely no exhaust manifolds were ever painted or coated when new (except Jaguars) but it is all the rage now, and if you turn up to an event with a bare metal exhaust everybody has a fit ... LOL. I will text this with my Alfa Romeo that I am attempting to restore to show condition, by sand blasting it and simply leaving it as Alfa intended. Yes it will start to rust ...

BTW: I'm not knocking the coating of this particular exhaust I'm just making a point that now everybody asks what the original colour was when in some cases it was just bare metal, left to fend for itself. This has now become unacceptable.
Pete

 

I would guess that it is galvanized plating which turns to a dull gray after many years.

Cheers,
Paul