Vignale spyder #504 restoration

Hi Ivan,

The issue is that it is zinc...it will evaporate over time, that is why it is a sacrificial metal. It took about 2 years to disappear in my case, IIRC. I used Eastwood's product spray designed for the purpose of protecting the plating. It was promoted as a diamond hard protector, it became dull and peeled. With the peel went the plating. The washers, bolts, nuts, brackets - the plating just disappeared. The extra brackets washers and duplicate parts that were still plated received a catalyzed clear [reducer, hardener, and base] it came off after some time, especially in the engine compartment. Powder coat it and you will be rock solid for at least 100K miles in the engine bay, a whole lot more elsewhere.

Just my .02 lira worth.

Ciao,
George

 

I replaced all the black oxide original hardware on a restoration I did 6 years ago with black zinc. It still looks absolutely perfect. One of my cat buddies is an MIT Ph.D. chemist and he uses black zinc with no degradation over time as well. Not sure what you are referring to, but it does not match our observations. I would guess prep was done incorrectly.

 

I have never dealt with black zinc, so that kind of finish sounds bulletproof, that's a good thing. It is only the yellow zinc chromate that I have dealt with. After second thought, I do have some dealer parts in the engine bay that have a yellow zinc chromate finish, they have held up fairly well. You very well may be right about the company's prep work as having been faulty. Over the years I have been told that the yellow zinc chromate will not hold up due to being a sacrificial metal. Maybe, it is just a soft finish that quickly wears down as in the brackets and bolts found on the underpinnings of the car.

Personally, I just powder coat as needed and it has worked well over the years. It's just extra insurance and keeps me from having to take things apart to have them replated.

Ciao,
George

 

How do you powdercoat nuts and bolts and then assemble them???

I used the cadnium on my Bora back in 1990 and it still looks perfect. But it's a deeper richer looking gold wheras the gold zinc has a variety of appearances depending on the plater. I guess almost no one does cadnium any more. The more recent zinc plating clear & gold on my Espada began having issues in less than 2 years. The weather in NJ is much more hostile than it is in California.

I used black oxide for the head bolts but I think it was parkerizing or something like that originally. They do look very different.

Like Ivan I used the spreadsheet, reviewed it with the guys and they still lost a piece of carb linkage on me. Maybe the answer is to send them a single piece at a time ... ;>))

Bob S.

 

Hi Bob,

Powder coating washers, springs and all those other minor things just takes time and patience. Nevertheless, this invested time gives that final assembly a more finished look.

I use translucent gold powder coat to mimic the original yellow zinc chromate. Basically you polish everything out, spray, and bake. The end result is most durable and most satisfactory.

Like Ivan, I am hesitant to send all those little items out for plating, so I prefer to take my time and do it myself.

Ciao,
George
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It's interesting to compare, I think, the bottom end of the 3500 engine with that of my earlier A6. It's clearly an entirely different era, just eight years later.

Ivan, your taillight lenses appear to be identical to those on an Alfa Giulietta Sprint Speciale. Some excellent reproductions are available, if you need the source send me an e-mail or PM.

Beautiful workmanship on the restoration.

Don
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Ivan,

If you are headed for Pebble Beach you really might want to consider the new repro taillight lenses organized by Matt. The plastic is brilliantly translucent, and the improvement to the back of my SS was simply remarkable. The new ones have the correct Carrello markings, unlike most older repros (however the part numbers are correct for orange but not red).

We are indeed fortunate to have Wefco.

Don

 

Ivan,
take some pics of the rolling (!) car in the late afternoon/early evening. That helps when in white!

Ciao!
Walter

 

Sorry I'm late on this George.
I meant how do you powdercoat screws/bolts/buts and still have them work properly?

Bob S.

 

Anyone can do this. It is a simple process, virtually indestructable once coated. Just don't overcoat the thread that's all. Otherwise, no problemo!

Maybe I can talk Ivan into doing it.

Ciao,
George

 

Ok I'll try this one more time.
Even when you're plating threaded stuff you have to be careful about getting it too thick and the threads not working. I would expect that powder coating, typically a very thick and gloppy coating, would be really difficult or impossible. Hence my curiosity that you've made it to work.

Perhaps you can elaborate on what you're using because all of the stuff I've seen would leave screws & bolts looking like they have no threads ar all.

Mystified so far and willing to hear about something new and great.

Bob S.

 

Hi Bob,

Sending you a PM.

Ciao,
George

 

Looking good Ivan! I am following this restoration with interest.

Steve

 

Ivan, your car and engine both look stunning. Thanks for posting pictures and documenting your progress.

 

Ivan, that is my ideas of what heaven must look like. Nice Job!

 

Great looking man cave Ivan. I gotta stop by one of these days and get a tour.