360 - Viper Alarm Instal / Immobilizer Delete | FerrariChat

360 Viper Alarm Instal / Immobilizer Delete

Discussion in '360/430' started by Rjvb3, Aug 22, 2025 at 9:19 AM.

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  1. Rjvb3

    Rjvb3 Rookie

    Mar 4, 2025
    49
    Delaware, USA
    Full Name:
    Rick
    Well, I did it! I was tired of my 5-foot keyless entry range and read so many horror stories about issues with the factory immobilizer and reliability problems, so I pulled out the 90’s technology and updated it with a modern Viper 2-way alarm system. I’ve read about people deleting the immobilizer and putting in an aftermarket alarm system, but was not successful in finding any detailed technical info here about it, so I wanted to share my experience doing so on my 99 F360. Without a detailed wiring diagram, it was a little tricky, but after using the spider diagram that’s floating around that shows all connections, I was able to trace them around and use a multimeter to determine which wires did what in the system. This will just be for reference only and please keep in mind some cars may be slightly different so always double check things for yourself first. There are also many ways to do this. But this is just how I did it.

    Note: Before going through with this, you MUST have your ECU’s re-flashed to have the immobilizer function deleted! I previously went through @sammyf to get the 360Trev tune with that particular option. After that is completed. You can remove your factory Immobilizer boxes behind the driver (LHD) seat. As part of the delete, you may also be required to jumper out the black and grey wires (pin 12 and 13) on the bottom 16 pin Immobilizer connector 14H. If your car’s starter cranked the engine but didn’t start with the immobilizer ACTIVE/ARMED you will not need to do this, as was my case. It might be an early car thing. Not sure, but I did not have to do this. Before moving forward ensure your car starts and drivers fine after the tune with the immobilizer completely removed. You will not have a dome light come on with open doors yet, but we will get into that later.

    Alarm Choice: I opted to use the new Viper 8908V 2-way Alarm/remote start system. I did not wire the remote start function as I didn’t need it or want to mess with the added complexity of installation. I also installed the Smart Start Pro add-on module to allow GPS, 4G, and smart phone connectivity (subscription required) So in addition to the 3-mile FOB Range, you can have GPS tracking, view status, and send/receive lock/unlock commands via smartphone from anywhere. The entire project was less than $600 (minus the prior ECU flash of course). If can be done for less if you omit the smart phone/GPS connectivity and/or go for the non-LCD remote version.
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    ENSURE BATTERY IS ISOLATED AND VEHICLE HAS NO POWER BEFORE TOUCHING ANYTHING. With the factory Immobilizer removed, you will need to mount the new control unit. I used the now open space and one of the factory mount studs, and installed a riv-nut on the other side. Then you can connect the wires from the new Viper unit to several of the wires from the factory connectors. Many of the Viper wires will not be used since they are for the remote start or other unneeded features. To keep things organized, I simply de-pinned and removed them completely. Below is a pinout of the factory Immobilizer connectors and a table of Viper wires and where they go. The ones highlighted in green were the ones I connected to the Viper system. The grey highlighted wires were not used. If you could find a connector and pins that fit to the car side, that would be ideal, but I simply cut, crimp spliced and heat shrinked them. I left enough wire to be able to re-connect in case I ever want to go back to stock, but I don’t see that happening. Also note that your dome light will not turn on when doors are opened without connecting the factory white and White/black wires together. You will also no longer have the light fade on/off as it was done through the stock immobilizer. Small price to pay. Also be sure to bag and wrap the old connectors to make sure you don’t get any foreign objects/debris into the contacts.
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    I also wanted to take advantage of the auxiliary controls the new system has. I used them to remotely open the front luggage compartment as well as the fuel door. Previously, both required the key to be on which was annoying. I think this may not be the case on newer models but I’m not sure. The luggage compartment fuse/relay panel requires some slight modification to give the positive side of the relay coil battery power vs keyed power.


    After getting behind the fuse/relay block I clipped the orange wire (keyed +) and left enough slack to connect the clipped end to terminal 30 of the relay. Make sure to protect and terminate the other end of the orange wire on the vehicle side as it will now be loose and have keyed power. I removed the factory terminal from the red/green (batt +) wire and crimped in a new terminal, with the orange wire piggybacked off of that. Aptiv 12015869 Metri-Pack Female Terminals will fit in the relay cavity. Once this is done, the switch will now work with the key off.

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  2. Rjvb3

    Rjvb3 Rookie

    Mar 4, 2025
    49
    Delaware, USA
    Full Name:
    Rick
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    To allow it to operate with the Viper FOB, tap into the pink/yellow wire in the center console (On the vehicle side so you can still take out the console) and connect the Viper white/red wire from the 20-pin harness. This will give the relay coil ground when triggered by the remote or switch.

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    While you’re in that area, run and connect your park light wire to the violet/yellow wire as well. The original system flashed your L and R Turn Signals and had separate outputs, so if you tie those together to a single output, I believe your turn signals would operate together, which is no good. I like the park brake output better anyways. Also, you must configure the unit to provide a (+) output by placing a jumper fuse on the box in the (+) position. (-) output is also available for use with a relay. There is a 10amp load rating for this. I have all LED’s so I’m not worried, but I can’t vouch for the current of the factory bulbs. It may go to a relay anyways but I’m not sure. I didn’t dig into it.
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    To get the fuel door solenoid to activate with the FOB, you must reverse the polarity of the trigger with a simple 4/5 pin relay, since the factory release switch provides (+) trigger, and the viper system provides a (-) ground trigger. For a clean install without a loose relay flopping around I used a metri-pack relay block and mounted it above the connectors.
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    Now, You can open your fuel door with the FOB…. when you inevitably forget to hit the switch before turning the car off, and you’re standing there like a jackass with the pump in your hand staring at a locked fuel door… every. time. No more!
     
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  3. Rjvb3

    Rjvb3 Rookie

    Mar 4, 2025
    49
    Delaware, USA
    Full Name:
    Rick
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    I mounted the shock sensor as far inboard in the silver removable panel as I could.

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    You can also program the remote to display what you have the aux outputs for, which is nice. (ignore my crappy temp screen protector)

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    For the Siren, I removed the factory siren and mounted the viper unit to the factory bracket. Connect the red power wire from the alarm to the green wire at the factory siren connector and use the mounting bolt for chassis ground. You could probably use the black wire at the connector as well, but that does directly to the battery and bypasses the disconnect. I didn’t know if that would cause issues or back feed anything, so I just went to chassis.

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    So its not as complicated as it initially seems. But if you do not have a solid understanding of electrical circuits, do not attempt this on your own. If you wire something wrong, it could be expensive. If you want to use a starter interrupt for additional security, use a relay and the orange “ground when armed” wire from the viper main harness to open up any wire circuit of your choosing that is required to start the car. This could be the starter wire, ecu, whatever you want. I won’t go into detail about what/how I am doing it for security reasons. I’m not showing you heathens how to hot-wire my car

    They do not have a picture of a 360 as an option, but its close enough for me. You can also select 12 differs cars and change their colors or have the viper logo as a background if you like.

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    Anyway, I hope this helps someone in the future. Overall, I’m very happy with the increased monitoring and control this gives me, and I’m relieved I don’t have a ticking time bomb of a battery waiting to leak all over the factory system and leave me stranded somewhere!
     
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  4. Flyingbrick242

    Flyingbrick242 Formula Junior
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    Feb 26, 2017
    681
    Northern AZ.
    Well done.!!
    Attention to detail A++
    Would Love to hear your experience with the upgrade down the road.
     
  5. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    Jul 8, 2016
    12,427
    The CSA
    Full Name:
    Me
    @Rjvb3 I've thought about doing this exact same thing. I have 2 brand news ECU's lying around that just need flashed, but losing the keyless capability has always held me back. Bravo on the write-up
     
  6. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    14,422
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
    F1 cars will crank without the immobiliser disarmed, gated cars won't.

    Most of the reliability issues are created by the siren battery. Does the Viper siren have a battery or is there a battery in the Immo unit?
     

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