Wanting to upgrade stereo system...suggestions?

David, I'm confused...I might be missing something but the ACC lead triggers amp on/off? How will your amps run constantly if there is zero voltage on the ACC feed?

 

The problem is only when you ground any electronics directly to the battery. The issue is if you turn off the battery switch this opens the ground side but since you amp is grounded to the battery it is still connected and then the amplifier supplies ground back to the stereo through the rca cables and causes a major drain.... On Daves car it cause the amplifier fan to come on.... Ground everything to the chassis not the battery!

Scott

 

Makes sense, I never thought about the implications if using the battery disconnect switch (I use tenders). I found that the 360/430 battery location allows a really short ground run, critical to low noise, and no drilling a ground lug!

Still, I'm baffled at what brand amp will turn on (power up fan) when the there is no ACC (remote turn on) power supplied? Does the "RCA line" 12v back feed somehow spill over to the ACC trigger in the head unit?

 

Never got a answer about replacing the speaker drivers in the scud ...

 

As per the amp question on the power on. All amps should Not be connected to the battery as the open loop that is created when you use the kill switch. It doesn't matter whether it's Fosgate, Arc, Alpine ect.,ect.. They all work on the same principal for remote turn on. Trust me when I moved the ground from the battery to a ground under the dash, the problem went away/solved.

David

 

I will like to have JL,Focal or Burgmeister speakers and maybe an amp that is the same size and bolts to the same places of the OEM with the same wire harness...

 

Every time you try to buy some speakers, for example at crutchfield when they ask you what car do you own and you answer a Ferrari boooom! Focal is your only way!! Yes thank you a $1,700.00 pair speakers!!!. I have a set of Polk components speakers and my amp do not even make them cry! I have a very powerful Rockford amp. I really recomend those Polk speakers or Boston acustics.

 

ive installed a pair of Audison Hertz 6 1/2" Millis, which are equivalent to Focal pk2's, components in the doors of a 430 for a customer and they sound amazing, fit in factory location.

 

JL-C5 6.5 work perfectly as well. That's what i put in.

'D

 

I checked Crutchfield and the focals are $700/pr. I am confused on the best setup for amp/ subwoofer and speaker combination.

I am planning on using the stock head unit, adding an amp, sub and replacing the factory door speakers. I do not have the factory hifi sub enclosure. Is it necessary to add a set of rear speakers? I would rather not.

Will the Polk, Focal, Boston acoustics speakers and tweeters match the factory enclosures without a problem?

If anyone has done something similar in their car (430) please let me know.

 

+10. Don't fall for the mass media hype of some of the current brands of car audio, especially speakers. I actually used to build amplifiers for ZAPCO in a previous life, and have been into hard core car audio for many years. I only use Polk or Boston Acoustics Pro Series for mid range and up.
Having said that, I once put a system together (1000 Watts in a Corvette) where I intentionally used the best input device, EQ and amplifiers money could buy, but the cheapest speakers (subs, mids and highs) that money could buy, to prove a point: Speakers are stupid; they only do what they are told. It was one of the best sounding systems around.

 

When you listen to music at home/concert, the sound comes from speakers/a stage that are/is located in front of you, right? Rear speakers, unless surrounds, don't help create an accurate sound stage.

 

After I fix up my Alternator (I very bad experience and a nightmare, see my thread), today I put all my music equipment back to test the system. I turn on the lights, AC full power and my radio. I’m testing the voltage output and all of this is giving the alternator a bad time. The readings were kind of low, I mean 12.3V-12.9V but when I pushed the gas it raise again to 13.9V which is a normal reading (before I fix the voltage regulator the readings was 14.5V which is very bad to the EUC).
After a some readings I learn that you have to choose your amp keeping in mind the available amperage of your car for that particular purpose. I think my amp is to powerfull for my alternator because when I pop that volume up for insane sound my dome lights stars to blink. I have a set of Polk MM6501 and a sony 10" sub. I think I need a capacitor to keep a constant current throught the system.
Do anyone here has experience this symptoms?

 

Ya know, there's a lot of truth to this....I pulled the factory system out of my Toyota/Lexus 4x4 (non Levinson) but kept the factory speakers (I was going to swap them later). I installed an Excelon double DIN and ran it though several old MTX hand built amps but did use a sealed sub enclosure. The resulting SQL was spectacular; I never did change the speakers.

Might be a good approach is to add a 2.1 amp to the factory head unit, run the existing door /under dash speakers (passing > 100hz) and add a sub. That might just be enough, if not just change out the factory speakers.

 

Experience being insane ? Yes, we all are around here

Make sure that amp is well grounded (but don't ask my advice on how ) if you are still getting disco lights, a cap might be in order.......

 

I feel you buddy!!
Im looking for a good grounding place! This car is all aluminum!!

 

Here is my advise my friend;
Polk MM6501 Component speakers (They sound insane but you has to make a bigger hole at the tweeter location).
The Alpine PDX-5 for a amp
You need to contact Kevin "Done" Wright for a subwoofer.
http://motoringillusions.com/430-360_Subwoofer.html

 

Kevin did mine, and it's unbeatable!

 

Ok. I'm with you except for the giant sub enclosure. I simply don't need that much sound. I had a powered 8" bazooka in the trunk of my 911 and it was all I needed. I am thinking of that route or using this one, both will be in the trunk: I could use the alpine amp to power it. http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_13693133/JL-Audio-CP108LG-W3v3.html?tp=27905

Any experience with these anyone? Do you get emough midrange with the polk being it is a woofer and tweeter only?

 

Im with you about the subwoofer. I think you will be fine with only the componets speakers they sound great and the mid range of the speaker is fantastic. This is my subfoofer http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+Slim+Line+10%22+1200-Watt+4-Ohm+Enclosed+Subwoofer/8212686.p?id=1166235821990&skuId=8212686
and it fits just perfect behind the passenger seat and it is giving me a solid and moderate bass tone.

 

Kevin did my 360. He is the best !

Regards,

Stew

 

PM SENT

 

What is the ball park $ you guys are spending to upgrade the stereo? I've had a few nice systems in my past cars and know things can get out of hand easily and all of a sudden 3 10" JL subs is "required" for the setup.

I'd really like to maintain a stock headunit and appearance but would like iPhone/iPod connectivity, upgraded speakers (always been a Boston Acoustics fan), sub is more than likely needed and I do like the all in one PDX-5 amp.

What have you guys done and what is the approx pricing. I'm not looking to drop 10K into a system but am curious about what can be reasonably done. Since it is a Ferrari I don't want an out of the box best buy sub enclosure shoved behind a seat.

 

I just want to install better quality dash speakers and suns in my scud with the same head unit,amp etc

Anyone knows what brand offers something for this with out doing any mod?

 

Velvetropeparty Wrote - Contact me for a complete kit.... no holes, just bolt up changes for MUCH better sound.

I have been looking for some time (in many forums) for simple advice on what replacement door speakers might fit straight into my 360 - no holes no cutting ? I already have the OEM speakers out, but what can I put back in ?

Any suggestions - Velvetropeparty - you seem to know what you're talking about ?