Cliff posted this "tongue in cheek" message in one of the ubiquitous timing belt mock threads but it reminded me of something I'm about to tackle. For those who have rigid bottle washer system.... How do you remove the washer/squirter pump? It looks to have one of those one way friction rings holding it from the inside but its so deep in the bottle, I can't seem to get a tool down there. Any help or advice appreciated. Rick PS - Cliff, I just went through my wiper assembly. You DON'T change the wiper bearings. If they are bad, you're screwed.<grin> PPS - well, there is a nylon bushing on the end of the worm gear you could change... have fun
Just did this replacement. I used a long, skinny screw driver to get under the rounded corners of the ring, not the flat side, but the side facing the open end of the pump. By carefully prying it up the tabs become loose and eventually you can get behind the flat part. Once the ring is out, you can re-straighten the flat side by using an appropriate size socket placed around the rim to flatten it out wit a few good hits with a hammer. My ring was copper so it was in good shape and easy to bend and reshape. Installation of the ring is quite a different matter however. I found a replacement pump that fits with minimal fabrication. The new pump has a molded collar that may need to be sanded down. This is the pump I bought at Autozone ($15) http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Taap-Windshield-Washer-Pump/_/N-9cibf?counter=46&itemIdentifier=855576_0_0_ It is made by TAAP and the model number is 8-695 Here is link to the company http://www.taapcorp.com/Pump-Images.html I also saw that Trico makes one, available from drivewire.com It fits a 97 Chrysler town and Country. Here is a link. http://www.drivewire.com/make/cat/windshield-washer-pump/chrysler/ Installation involved finding a circular item, such as a socket or in my case a bicycle flywheel wrench to fit around the collar, between the sides of the bottle recess and still have enough room to press the circular item against the collar. Be creative and use whatever works. Once the copper ring is partially installed, you can go around the edge little by little and ease it on. I did have to put a bead of silicone on the outside between pump and bottle to insure a watertight seal. This was one of the first repairs I did on my 78 308 GTS which I recently acquired last November. The first thing I noticed is that working on a Ferrari involves having to hold things with both hands while needing a third hand to do the job in a space that is very tight and usually inaccessible. Here are some pictures. Hope this helps. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great post Joe. I took mine apart but I keep forgetting to go look for a replacement. Now I know what to get. I can see getting it back together being kinda fun though. Great to see your pics that show just how to do it though. Thanks, John
+1 I was going to do mine, but it looked a lot harder than it was worth. Now that I've got step by step instrctions I might give it a shot (after all the rest of my projects).
Joe, Thanks so much for your input on this issue. It was VERY helpful. I didn't reinstall it exactly the same way as I just didn't like the way it was done from the factory. The Factory install uses a push-on or one-way retainer which is a bear to get out. Besides that, the factory install only uses a flat rubber washer on the outside of the bottle sandwiched between the bottle and the pump to make the seal. So, its totally dependent on the pressure of the one-way retainer to make the seal. No wonder so many leak into the spare. The new pump Joe found is not exactly the same and thankfully so. If you look in the comparison picture, you'll see the replacement (right) has a barbed snout and that the portion of the snout behind the barb is actually a bit larger diameter. As is, this barb and area behind it needs to be worked down to fit in the hole in the reservoir (as Joe did). OR... I assembled the new grommet type seal that came with the new pump onto the new pump's snout and got a nominal measurement of 21.4mm. Looking at my drill charts and what I had in the chest I found a 13/16" step drill should be just right for opening the hole up to accept the new grommet and pump with about .040" interference... woohoo. Drilled the hole out to 13/16", inserted the grommet. I sprayed the snout of the new pump and the grommet liberally with Windex to lubricate it and carefully worked the snout in and you can feel the barb pass the main wall of the reservoir. Nice tight fit and easily replaceable next time... For you concours guys, you'll want to follow Joe's method but if you are interested in better seal and future replace-ability without having to dig that one-way ring out, this works. Rick Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rick, That's even better. Oh and if the councours judge opens the washer bottle to see how the motor is mounted he's got serious issues!! Thanks, John
Rick Nice improvement on the installation of the new pump. I actually tried to use the new rubber grommet, but the fit was too tight. I had never thought of drilling out the hole in the tank. That is the nice thing about this board; we all work together and every one benefits. Joe
After seeing my repair, the Fchatter (who asked to remain anonymous) who sold me the washer reservoir assembly (he DID tell me the pump was bad before I bought it) called and asked me why didn't I just fix mine. I explained and emailed him a photo while we were on the phone and he laughed for a bit then said he felt like crying. He insisted I post this follow-up. Some PO had either done this or allowed this to be done... either way it's sad and at this point it's just best to laugh and move on now that I have a good working replacement. Perhaps we should start a "look what some idiot did" thread on the forum. First picture shows the custom re-engineering of the original washer bottle... no, that hose has a purpose Second picture shows the hose was actually attached to the output of what was obviously the wrong pump for this repair Third picture shows how the pump was attached and sealed to the bottle. (yes, it leaked) Fourth picture shows the precision hole put in the cap for the hose to exit. Suspect it was done with a pocket knife, ice pick or perhaps gnawed out... Enjoy the pics, have a good laugh and don't let anyone do this to your car!!! Rick Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Not sure why but the post that Joe put up earlier from Autozone kept flaking out and asking me for what year car I wanted the part for. Thought I would post this up and see if it is any better. I ordered one last night since there were none in my local store. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Windshield-Washer-Pump/_/N-9cibf?filterByKeyWord=8-695&fromString=search&isSearchByPartNumber=true
Old thread I know; just wanted to thank everyone for the part numbers and guidance. Picking up the pump at Autozone on the way home and doing this project tonight.
Although my window spritzer works, I have never used it. And I only keep about 2 cups of fluid in it. Just enough to weigh it down from popping out of the bracket. And yes, I've had her out in the rain, but I try & avoid that due to assorted leaks.
