Hi all, Just in the process of changing the two coolant hoses that run through the middle chassis rail of the Dino (front to rear). On one of the hoses there is a T piece that leads to the heater box. Where it passes through the spare tyre well a previous owner has carried out a unique repair that comprises of copper household plumbing to take 22mm to 15mm. My question is what part should be there ? Is it one pipe but with a specific end or is it a joining piece that should be there? It's a good quality bodge its held water and stood the test of time but it would be nice to have the right bits in there. Anyone know how this should look?
Do you have the parts book? The tunnel hose (hot water side) has a "T" that goes upwards to the Passengers side vent box exchanger (#41), crosses over to the second vent box then returns to the engone bay at "T" by the overflow tank (#32). Before you install these, perhaps consider not for a while. Open the front bonnet and notice that every cfm of fresh air that enters through the vents pass within inches of the radiator downwind side leaving cabin air pre-heated if not hot. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for your reply. Is 41 rubber pipe all the way from the T to the heater valve on the heater box? The Dino I'm on has the home made copper adaptor where it passes through the spare wheel well.
Both 41 and 32 are rubber heater hose plus the cross hose between heater cores. If you're in the USA, they should be easy to find at your local parts store. The tunnel hose from the waterpump output (hot side) travels forward under the Dino and is cut just aft of the battery tray with a "T" is inserted to provide the heated water via 41. Several vendors sell nice stainless steel versions of this "T": Ferrari 246 GT/GTS: Cooling Systems: Water Pipes & More: Water pipes & more - List Superformance: Ferrari Parts for 246, 308, 348, 355, 360 and all of the Ferrari range Sorry to be a broken record. I'm not sure where you are but if it is anything near a warm climate then I'd consider not connecting the ventilation system heat exchangers with the coolant hoses until after you've driven a while in the Dino to evaluate. This would allow you a chance to see how hot it is and make a decision then, no concours judge will ever know. Dino cabins run hot, that gorgeous body with flowing lines truly cheated the wind but at the expense of cabin air flow. I believe one reason for the constant heat in the ventilation heat exchangers is that the backside provides constant convective heat to them. While the inflow is regulated by a cockpit controlled valve the outflow is always present to the same heat at engine AND overflow tank where it "T"s into at hose #32 Again, you can always add it back in less than 20 mins, but it was one of the most welcome mods in my Dino
Thanks for all of your help. The Dino is in England so hot climate isn't an issue but I will try to ensure the the hoses are positioned away from air ducting as much as possible. Regard Adam
Thank you. Just to be clear, the cooling tunnel hose position to the air ducting has nothing to do with the issue. My point was that the cabin is already getting radiator heat through the normal airflow whether you want it or not, so why connect the ventilation heat exchanger cores that can add heat when you don't want it?
Yes, if you make it so no hot air gets to the heater boxes you won't have warm air to defrost the windshield either. But I doubt many people drive their Dino's when it's that cold out😀
I have had my heater boxes disconnected or shut off for decades and my experience is that once it is warmed up the car will still be 10 - 20 dec F warmer inside than the outside air, the latter number being if the sun is out.
Since all the ventilation AND defrosting air comes through the ventilation ducts and these pass just inches in front of the radiator, the air is pre-heated.
