Water pump bolt

Soak some Zep45 (penetrating fluid) on the head and let it work into the treads, it may take several days with multiple applications, dont be in a rush, you no doubt have the two dis-similar metal thing goin' on. Be careful with heat, you dont want to snap the bolt or pull the treads. It may also depend on what you are using for 'heat', I have found that some types of gas (butane, propane) just dont get hot enough to expand the metals you are working with. Oxy/acetylene is what I use a lot but you have to be careful. I would not use an impact driver, just slow and steady with the penetrating fluid, heat and time. It's a good size bolt so you should not break it as long as you dont go too crazy, heat is the best solution.

 

I recommend Kroil to free stuck and rusty bolts. That stuff is absolutely amazing.

www.kanolabs.com

 

im surprised you have not removed the stud from the block with an impact wrench???

 

Trying to tighten it, a bit, first, as suggested by an other here, may help. But, gently, gently.

 

Sometimes a couple of moderate smacks on the blot head will loosen it up. I take a 3/8" drive socket extension to use a drift pin. If I can get it to move then I use more penertrating fluid and work the bolt back and forth, gradually backing it out.
I did a water pump job back in January, the 4 big bolts that hold the pump to the block were tight but was able to break them free with the socket bar. Good luck.

 

OSH Hardware.

 

I am reading a lot of references to application of WD-40. This is not the correct product.

The proven products that I am aware of are:

"Kroil" http://www.kanolabs.com/
Kroil can be made at home by mixing Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF and Acetone) 50%/50%
"PB Blaster" http://www.pbblaster.com/
"Seafoam Deep Creep" http://www.seafoamsales.com/deep-creep.html

Cheers

 

Save the WD40 for a squeeky door, use Kroil or PB blaster

 

+1
If you have a heat gun (not a torch) - moderate, repeated heat cycles and reapplication of the oil will help wick the penetrant into the threads and or loosen the mineral build up that is probably the root cause of your issue. If the mineral build up is excessive I've even had success with vinegar.

Rick

 

Kirk,

M10 X 1.25 mm
Really,, take it to OSH,, they will have one. It might be too long, just cut it with a hack saw. Put a nut on the bolt first (Buy one.) after you file the cut end flat, the nut will fix the threads for you as you back it off.

Good luck,
Edwardo

 

Use heat, good penetrating oil, tapping with a soft faced hammer. You may be able to tap a single edge razor blade into the w/p gasket.

 

If I'm understanding correctly, you took the water pump itself off, and the housing is still on the block?

I have a '75 gt4 and I'm assuming that we use the same water pump... as I recall there were 4 studs coming from the block to hold the pump/housing on. The pump or the pump housing were not threaded where they were held onto the block.

It sounds like some (or all?) of the 4 studs on my car are bolts on your car?

If you pulled the pump, I think you should also be able to pull the housing without removing any other bolts/nuts. I think there is just an o-ring between the housing and block. Maybe some gasket maker goop is holding the housing on?

I am no expert, so I'd wait for someone to confirm what I just said before you try it.

-David

 

Liquid Wrench and patience. It would be good if you could post a pix to see which bolt exactly. IIRC, the W/P is held on with studs. The upside is, you can easily remove the nut, the downside is more disassembly to get the pump out. This ass'y may have been mod'd.

 

I ruined a housing like this. all the studs had to come out on my GT4 to remove the the housing. Time serts can be used to fix a stripped thread these blocks are very porous and do not take much to strip a thread I cant believe that the bolt broke off before stripping the engine threads????? post some pics!

Rob

 

Interesting generational change in assembly...

My 1980 and the other 308s I've helped with have all had bolts. There are 3 studs on the back housing that hold the pump itself to the back housing. There are 4 pass through bolts that hold the pump to the housing to the block.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/moseley_ferrari/4243071312/sizes/l/in/set-72157622622414240/

But I digress. Sounds like on this motor part of the gasket on the pump failed and allowed water to work down the hole and allowed some sort of mineral build-up to severely impact the bolt shaft. (best reason to use distilled water) If it can't be chemically loosened, heat and brute force (wood wedges) may be the only things that get this off.

I know there are those that scoff at anything other than a dry gasket, but this is why I like to do a light smear of sealer on all my gaskets and if a bolt hole penetrates into a water jacket or oil passage, I use liquid teflon on the threads. If its really a bad spot, I'll even thread the mating surfaces.

Correct

Rick

 

Rick, I havent heard of this product before so I have a couple of questions.

What is the liquid teflon product that you are referring to?

How exactly do you use it?

When you remove a bolt that had this treatment what is the residual, if any?

Thanks

 

Darryl,
1: Its Permatex PTFE Thread sealant
2: Just brush a small amount on the bolt threads before you insert the bolt.
3: A small amount of thickened sealer that easily removes with a wire brush.

It also acts as a mild anti-seize so bolts don't freeze when this is used. I wouldn't use it on header bolts, but it works in other less hot places.

Hope this helps,
Rick
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I had a stud fatigue on the header on my Porsche due to other header bolts loosening allowing vibration. The stud broke off flush with the head. No amount of pecking with a punch and small hammer would budge it. I was not inclined to remove the cylinder head.

I eventually drilled a hole down through the center of the bolt using a right angled chuck contraption. Then I drilled a larger hole in steps until I could insert a tungsten carbide bit on my Dremel tool and gradually thinned the bolt material until it was very thin. Then I used a very small diamond bit in the Dremel once again to cut radially into the threads just at one point. The diamond bit was only 3/32 inch in diameter so little threading was lost and that which was lost was only in a line. Then I pried a piece of the remaining bolt away from the cylinder head threads at one point and grabbed it with a pair of long nose pliers and twisted rolling and tearing the remaining metal away (like the old fashioned way of opening a sardine can). I chased the stud hole threads with a tap after removing all material.

This was 10 years ago and the new bolt has never caused a problem.

 

Thanks Ramosel! I will add this product to my kit. I could have used it a couple of months ago when I rebuilt a motorcycle transmission.

The meticulous removal of the Porsche bolt sounds like no fun.