water pump rebuild (pictures)

The following shows some picturs from the water pump re-build. The engine is back in and has been run for an hour of so. All seams fine. No leaks yet!
kevin
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Last slide is befoe the re-build, but useful to identify the bolts on re-assembly.
Kevin
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Scott, you are encouraging people to be lazy, so can't possibly approve.
All Dino owners should experience the shear pleasure of rebuilding original parts of their cars.
Kevin ;-)
Hopefully the bid price still remains low for the buyer.

 

Now the tough part - how do you install the H2O pump with the harmonic balancer on the Engine?[/QUOTE]

Scott,
Easy. you don't need to remove the balancer. At least that's the way it was on my car. I don't remember any issues with clearance or any special or clumsy persuasion required.
This is the only photo I have to demonstrate that. Hope it helps.
Kevin
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Scott, Can you remove all the pump mounting studs from block with pump in place? Not sure if enough mated meat showing to grip with two nuts, or better proper threaded stud extractor.
Why is the AC more difficult. The harmonic pulley and pump are same.
Kevin

 

Sorry, but I don't understand your comment. Please clarify, Kevin.

 

Water pump impeller clearance
Peter,

Now I see what you mean, and thanks for pointing this out. I hope I have not misled anyone.

The 0.02" (~0.5mm) clearance I was using is the distance between the flat face of the impeller ( face showing in photo) and the casting face ( also showing) of the pump casing. This clearance + whatever the gasket thickness is gives the clearance of the impeller to the engine block. This is what I now realise I may have mistakenly understood John Corbani referred to in hits post (bottom 4th paragraph)
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthr...pump+clearance
Its a few years since I did this, but from memory, the reason I interpreted Johns comment this way was because I could not see a way to accurately measure the clearance on the impeller blade side. Its difficult to get feeler gauges in. The method I used gave close but good free running clearance on the impeller side. I do remember looking at this closely. Of course this was at cold temperature, not operating.

I guess I could have pressed the impeller fully on, measured the face clearance and then backed off 0.5mm.

The workshop manual (section "Engine Cooling" "Overhauling and Checks" page 53 in my version) does indeed say "when assembling the pump unit ensure that the gap between the impeller 'blades' and the pump housing is 0.5~1mm".

Given the pump has been working for ~5K miles since with no noise or cooling issues, I will assume that the clearance method I used, and common sense feel testing, was not far out from manufacturer specification. Normally I get paranoid if I think something has been set wrong, but on this occasion I feel comfortable. Please advise if you see differently.

Perhaps a good reason to buy a already assembled new unit as per Scott's suggestion ;-)

Kevin

 

Adam,
The superformance bearing and seal I purchased in 2012 was fine. Is it possible you have pushed the bearing in the wrong way around ( don't mean to insult you abilities, but trying to work out how the issue could occur?). Does the grub screw hole line up as per the earlier picture? It is a while since I did this, but from memory you can't visually see if the carbon is in touch with the impeller. I think you have to measure it pre installation and check the length of the exposed part to determine if in place.
The shoulder on the exposed brass folded casing ( clear in Peters photos above) does stand proud from the casting, so don't get put off by that. It does look a bit odd.
Kevin

 

Adam, you can gauge how much the brass casing stands proud of the aluminium casing by the wear marks on the extracted seal in post 1 (bottom left photo). Looks to be about 2/3 exposed, 1/3 pushed in. Kevin.